Nice job. I just did this on my 61 as well. I robbed a glow lens and the filter lens as well from a bj60 while I was in Canada a few months ago. As a matter of fact on your advice if I recall.
Builds Who likes addition? (FJ-60 + 1HZ)
- Thread starter DanS HJ-45
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Nice job. I just did this on my 61 as well. I robbed a glow lens and the filter lens as well from a bj60 while I was in Canada a few months ago. As a matter of fact on your advice if I recall.
DanS HJ-45
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- Thread starter
- #342
LOL!
I skipped the "filter" lens on this one because I have a separate "filter" light for the dash panel.
I don't really give two rips about the seat belt light, but it's there, as is the wiring so I might as well leave it, I guess...
Dan
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
I would put a muffler in your exhaust system for sure.
I ran 3" straight pipe exhaust on my hdj81 and the turbo cut some noise, but it was still painfully loud. I put a large full flow oval muffler in and it shut it up pretty well. still sounded tuff as, but not too much noise or drone.
I'm about to do similar in a hzj105 when I turbo the 1hz, this time I have purchased two full flow mufflers, largest I can fit in the space available. . I don't want it to be loud or drone at all. must be getting old!!
one suggestion for your exhaust. On my 80, i had really tight clearances between the tcase and chassis. I ran the downpipe in one piece until it was just past the tcase. I had it hard mounted with brackets at the bellhousing/block, and also a bracket at the tcase. then I had a braided flex with the rest of the pipe mounted on rubber toyota brick mounts.
this let me run really tight clearances (3/8 or less), with no contact to the frame at any time
I ran 3" straight pipe exhaust on my hdj81 and the turbo cut some noise, but it was still painfully loud. I put a large full flow oval muffler in and it shut it up pretty well. still sounded tuff as, but not too much noise or drone.
I'm about to do similar in a hzj105 when I turbo the 1hz, this time I have purchased two full flow mufflers, largest I can fit in the space available. . I don't want it to be loud or drone at all. must be getting old!!
one suggestion for your exhaust. On my 80, i had really tight clearances between the tcase and chassis. I ran the downpipe in one piece until it was just past the tcase. I had it hard mounted with brackets at the bellhousing/block, and also a bracket at the tcase. then I had a braided flex with the rest of the pipe mounted on rubber toyota brick mounts.
this let me run really tight clearances (3/8 or less), with no contact to the frame at any time
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
I'm also using v-band clamps to set it up in 3 sections, wrestling with 3" pipe under a truck on stands blows!
DanS HJ-45
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- Thread starter
- #345
I will get better pics tomorrow, but I've been working in the shop a little, and a lot of waiting for parts....
Ordered a muffler--should be here tomorrow I hope. And some sound deadening stuff for the doors, because once that is in I can start reassembling the doors too.
I was also waiting on brake line, a high quality brake flaring tool, and an air hammer. These three showed up this afternoon.
So: rerouted the rear brake line to the left frame rail.
Took longer to paint it than it did for me to bend it up and out the flares on.
I might make a little heat shield for that one exposed section near the webasto' fuel filter. Maybe.
I also prepped the frame a bit for the 4x4Labs bumper.
For the record, the way to remove the rivets is:
1)Center Punch Rivet head.
2)Drill out river head deeper than the metal it goes through. About 3/4 the diameter of the rivet shank. Approximately.
3)Chisel rivet head with air hammer
4)push rest of rivet out with air hammer.
Using that method I removed all 5 rivers in the right side in 3 minutes. Total.
I also started mounting some odds and ends back on the firewall.
Any guesses what that black box to the left of the catch can is?
I bought one for my sister for Christmas this year, and have been super impressed with it.
More tomorrow! Sounds like my injectors are done, and the sound deadening stuff should arrive tomorrow too. Busy busy!
Dan
Ordered a muffler--should be here tomorrow I hope. And some sound deadening stuff for the doors, because once that is in I can start reassembling the doors too.
I was also waiting on brake line, a high quality brake flaring tool, and an air hammer. These three showed up this afternoon.
So: rerouted the rear brake line to the left frame rail.
Took longer to paint it than it did for me to bend it up and out the flares on.
I might make a little heat shield for that one exposed section near the webasto' fuel filter. Maybe.
I also prepped the frame a bit for the 4x4Labs bumper.
For the record, the way to remove the rivets is:
1)Center Punch Rivet head.
2)Drill out river head deeper than the metal it goes through. About 3/4 the diameter of the rivet shank. Approximately.
3)Chisel rivet head with air hammer
4)push rest of rivet out with air hammer.
Using that method I removed all 5 rivers in the right side in 3 minutes. Total.
I also started mounting some odds and ends back on the firewall.
Any guesses what that black box to the left of the catch can is?
I bought one for my sister for Christmas this year, and have been super impressed with it.
More tomorrow! Sounds like my injectors are done, and the sound deadening stuff should arrive tomorrow too. Busy busy!
Dan
Flight recorder? Didn't know they were actually black!
Sent from my HTC One_M8
Sent from my HTC One_M8
Sorry for the wait Dan. Hardware order is almost complete. 
DanS HJ-45
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- Thread starter
- #348
I lied. No better pics today.
@cruiserdan is attempting to order new injector gaskets from Toyota. The Toyota ones are thicker than the Bosch/Denso ones from the diesel shop. So I won't torque the injectors down until I have dealt with that. I should hear tomorrow if we have success...
But when I stopped by today I grabbed a bit for fabrication...
Nothing but Toyota exhaust isolator a for this truck!
Supposedly my muffler will be in tomorrow, so I can move a bit more on the exhaust before I have to head back to work.
But I did manage to fabricate a tool today--preparing to do the rear diff rebuild.
Also, I helped Dad get the transmission and T-case into his yellow 40, so now that particular job is done--so I expect us to bring two cruisers back out into the sunlight this spring.
Dan
@cruiserdan is attempting to order new injector gaskets from Toyota. The Toyota ones are thicker than the Bosch/Denso ones from the diesel shop. So I won't torque the injectors down until I have dealt with that. I should hear tomorrow if we have success...
But when I stopped by today I grabbed a bit for fabrication...
Nothing but Toyota exhaust isolator a for this truck!
Supposedly my muffler will be in tomorrow, so I can move a bit more on the exhaust before I have to head back to work.
But I did manage to fabricate a tool today--preparing to do the rear diff rebuild.
Also, I helped Dad get the transmission and T-case into his yellow 40, so now that particular job is done--so I expect us to bring two cruisers back out into the sunlight this spring.
Dan
DanS HJ-45
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- Thread starter
- #349
Funny man. Why would I want to record my slow, boring driving?
Here's another hint: it's more useful in Colorado than it would be in SoCal.
Sorry for the wait Dan. Hardware order is almost complete.
Not a worry. If things go well tomorrow I will get the exhaust a lot more done, and soon get the body on the frame.
...or I will work on rebuilding the rear diff tomorrow.
Dan
Remote starter?
Heated washer fluid?
Looks like IanB got it.
DanS HJ-45
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- Thread starter
- #353
Yep. It's pretty simple, and amazing.
It draws a lot of current when it starts up, it's fused for 50 amps. But it waits for the battery (or in my case, the circuit breaker connected to the battery) to rise above 13volts (so after engine start) to heat up. Takes about 30 seconds, and then the washer fluid is warm.
I will connect it to the auxiliary battery circuit breaker, and the auxiliary battery is not connected to the main battery until well after the main battery has charged up--so it should be too big of a shock to the electrical system. But the 1HZ has a MUCH bigger alternator than the 12HT, 3B and 2LT-E, so I'm a bit spoiled by that anyhow.
Heated washer fluid is amazing compared to having slushy snow freeze as the wipers pack it onto the left side of the windshield.
Dan
That is a really cool upgrade, almost makes me wish it was cold enough to need here in ABQ! (Not really, I hate the winter!)
DanS HJ-45
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- Thread starter
- #355
I am told that they make bug removal in the summer MUCH easier too. Ash has a car with heated washer fluid in the East Mountains--and he says it's the "bomb diggity."
Dan
Hmmm, maybe I will have to look into that. It is always nice to add some more bomb diggity to my truck!
DanS HJ-45
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- Thread starter
- #357
Speaking of increasing the bomb-diggity....
Better pics!
I heard back from @cruiserdan, that the injector nozzle gaskets are non-import. So I debated using the generic ones, but decided to refresh the toyota gaskets instead. I did that by kludgingly annealing them (hooray for having a shop oven!), and then once the injectors were installed, a LOT more could go back on the engine....
You can see a line from the IP's turbo compensator to the intake manifold. I drilled and tapped the bottom of the manifold with a 1/8" NPT hole, so that I could screw in a stainless barbed fitting for that sensing line. Very clean. I like this much more than my previous thought which was to add a fitting onto the intake adapter.
My muffler finally arrived, so I was able to really get the exhaust set down.
Here's a good pic of the hangers I fabricated, to use the Toyota isolator blocks. The 60 and 80 series are the same externally, but the shaman pointed out that the rubber void is different between the,. Maybe the 80 series (the ones I used) are more flexible. I don't know, but I figured I might as well note that here.
And here's an overall view, showing the front hanger, and the muffler. I used http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pye-mvr203s/overview/ that I ordered from the local hot rod shop. I didn't want much "muffling" since the 1HZ is so quiet, and the turbo will do most of it anyway. But I wanted a little bit, so this seemed like a good solution. It's also 304 stainless (I'm not wild about it being polished, but meh), and it's only 4" in diameter--so it doesn't take up much space. I will surely take a video once it's running and post that here.
This is a good overview of the exhaust, which shows the section that the muffler is in. This way I could swap mufflers easily if I don't like it, or make a straight pipe for that section if I choose.
Better pics!
I heard back from @cruiserdan, that the injector nozzle gaskets are non-import. So I debated using the generic ones, but decided to refresh the toyota gaskets instead. I did that by kludgingly annealing them (hooray for having a shop oven!), and then once the injectors were installed, a LOT more could go back on the engine....
You can see a line from the IP's turbo compensator to the intake manifold. I drilled and tapped the bottom of the manifold with a 1/8" NPT hole, so that I could screw in a stainless barbed fitting for that sensing line. Very clean. I like this much more than my previous thought which was to add a fitting onto the intake adapter.
My muffler finally arrived, so I was able to really get the exhaust set down.
Here's a good pic of the hangers I fabricated, to use the Toyota isolator blocks. The 60 and 80 series are the same externally, but the shaman pointed out that the rubber void is different between the,. Maybe the 80 series (the ones I used) are more flexible. I don't know, but I figured I might as well note that here.
And here's an overall view, showing the front hanger, and the muffler. I used http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pye-mvr203s/overview/ that I ordered from the local hot rod shop. I didn't want much "muffling" since the 1HZ is so quiet, and the turbo will do most of it anyway. But I wanted a little bit, so this seemed like a good solution. It's also 304 stainless (I'm not wild about it being polished, but meh), and it's only 4" in diameter--so it doesn't take up much space. I will surely take a video once it's running and post that here.
This is a good overview of the exhaust, which shows the section that the muffler is in. This way I could swap mufflers easily if I don't like it, or make a straight pipe for that section if I choose.
DanS HJ-45
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- Thread starter
- #358
One last pic.
Here's the clearance between the exhaust and the frame. It's really tight between the bell housing and the frame, but after that it's pretty normal. I like it.
That's it for now. I've got to run back to work for a few days. But I will be back next week to crank out a bit more. Unless the rebuilt IP for the faux-lux comes back, in which case I need to stay home in CO and get that back in. I miss driving my little blue truck.
Dan
Here's the clearance between the exhaust and the frame. It's really tight between the bell housing and the frame, but after that it's pretty normal. I like it.
That's it for now. I've got to run back to work for a few days. But I will be back next week to crank out a bit more. Unless the rebuilt IP for the faux-lux comes back, in which case I need to stay home in CO and get that back in. I miss driving my little blue truck.
Dan
Looking fabulous, nice work on the exhaust..
I had thought about tucking my BJ42 under the bell housing and running down the other side of the frame but brake lines keep me from doing that.
Do you still want that promo tester rad hose kit? If so PM me your address.
Rob
I had thought about tucking my BJ42 under the bell housing and running down the other side of the frame but brake lines keep me from doing that.
Do you still want that promo tester rad hose kit? If so PM me your address.
Rob
DanS HJ-45
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- #360
Thanks!
I did that on the faux-lux. The exhaust sticks down a lot farther than I would like, but otherwise it works well.
This exhaust is entirely above the bottom of the frame rail.
You've got a PM.
Dan
