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It works fine. You need to set your welder at +DC.
Builds Who likes addition? (FJ-60 + 1HZ) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter DanS HJ-45
- Start date
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DanS HJ-45
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- Thread starter
- #282
We started the day with a trip into town.
Visited CDan, worked on finding some exhaust studs that will work with the 1HZ, but are also readily available in the US. I won't know for a bit if we were successful, but I suspect so.
I also dropped off the injectors at Central Motive Power for rebuild. The IP that was originally on this engine was solidly gunked up, and even thought it ran just fine once I put a rebuilt IP on it, I figure it's a good idea to rebuild the injectors now.
When we got back, I put the T-case back onto the Transmission....
I've still got to finish putting a couple seals in, and I need to powder coat the drive flanges, but it's together and looking good! I decided to leave the bolts with that "finish" on them. That's the Australian Red Dirt. Most of those bolts soaked in solvent for months, and that's how tenacious the stuff is. But I think it looks kind of cool, and none of them have even a little rust, just kind of rusty/dirty looking.
With that done, it was time to mate the engine to the transmission. So I pulled the completely trashed pilot bearing out, replaced the rear main seal with a new one, and bolted the flywheel on.
Then I broke open the clutch:
I can't tell you how impressed I am with this clutch kit. The components definitely are high quality, but what really blew me away was the packaging...
Inside that bag was the clutch and pressure plate assembly. They were both individually wrapped in plastic. The thing that blew me away about that is that I was able to install the whole clutch without ANY chance of touching the surfaces. This is the first time I have installed a clutch and not had to wash everything down with brake cleaner.
And with that clutch installed, we mated the transmission/Tcase assembly to the engine, and put the whole thing into the frame!
Visited CDan, worked on finding some exhaust studs that will work with the 1HZ, but are also readily available in the US. I won't know for a bit if we were successful, but I suspect so.
I also dropped off the injectors at Central Motive Power for rebuild. The IP that was originally on this engine was solidly gunked up, and even thought it ran just fine once I put a rebuilt IP on it, I figure it's a good idea to rebuild the injectors now.
When we got back, I put the T-case back onto the Transmission....
I've still got to finish putting a couple seals in, and I need to powder coat the drive flanges, but it's together and looking good! I decided to leave the bolts with that "finish" on them. That's the Australian Red Dirt. Most of those bolts soaked in solvent for months, and that's how tenacious the stuff is. But I think it looks kind of cool, and none of them have even a little rust, just kind of rusty/dirty looking.
With that done, it was time to mate the engine to the transmission. So I pulled the completely trashed pilot bearing out, replaced the rear main seal with a new one, and bolted the flywheel on.
Then I broke open the clutch:
I can't tell you how impressed I am with this clutch kit. The components definitely are high quality, but what really blew me away was the packaging...
Inside that bag was the clutch and pressure plate assembly. They were both individually wrapped in plastic. The thing that blew me away about that is that I was able to install the whole clutch without ANY chance of touching the surfaces. This is the first time I have installed a clutch and not had to wash everything down with brake cleaner.
And with that clutch installed, we mated the transmission/Tcase assembly to the engine, and put the whole thing into the frame!
DanS HJ-45
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- Thread starter
- #283
And here's the left side...
And here's how tight the T-case is to the aux tank. I need to move the tank back a little bit. Maybe 1/2" or so. Not entirely sure how I'm going to do that just yet, but I will.
I also put the turbo on the manifold, to take a good look at how much room I have to work with...
...and then I started mocking up the exhaust. To see if this will work. Not entirely sure that it will, but I'm going to mock up what I can to take a good look at it.
And here's how tight the T-case is to the aux tank. I need to move the tank back a little bit. Maybe 1/2" or so. Not entirely sure how I'm going to do that just yet, but I will.
I also put the turbo on the manifold, to take a good look at how much room I have to work with...
...and then I started mocking up the exhaust. To see if this will work. Not entirely sure that it will, but I'm going to mock up what I can to take a good look at it.
DanS HJ-45
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- Thread starter
- #284
More mocking up of the exhaust. It will be tight, for sure. But I'm thinking this will work. I am maybe regretting going to 3 inch exhaust. This would be much easier with 2.5 inch.
What say you all? I will most likely shorten the leg going immediately out of the turbo, and add a little straight pipe between the 90 degree bend that goes over the T-case and the 45 degree kick up towards the turbo. That's easy enough, and will move the exhaust a little way away from the firewall. On second thought, maybe I want to have it close to the firewall so the passenger
feet are nice and toasty... 
What say you all? I will most likely shorten the leg going immediately out of the turbo, and add a little straight pipe between the 90 degree bend that goes over the T-case and the 45 degree kick up towards the turbo. That's easy enough, and will move the exhaust a little way away from the firewall. On second thought, maybe I want to have it close to the firewall so the passenger
feet are nice and toasty...
DanS HJ-45
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- Thread starter
- #285
I figure I ought to stop teasing and show some of the goodies that were in those boxes....
Rock lights!
A small (efficient) fan!
Why, you might ask?
That way, when the webasto is running, that little fan (which draws about 0.5A, and flows maybe 1/3 or 1/2 of the air the blower does, from what I gather) can run, instead of the squirrel cage blower. So that the truck can be defrosted and at least a little warm.
Now, I know what you are thinking: and yes, having to trudge outside in the cold to flip a switch to turn the webasto on sucks.
But that won't be my problem!
It's supposed to have a 1 mile range, and I'm going to wire the remote start function to turn on the webasto. Haven't decided what (if anything) to do with the 4 aux functions it has. I'm thinking maybe of turning on the rock lights or roof rack lights. It would certainly make it easy to find the truck in a big parking lot!
I want as little of the security system possible though. I hate car alarms. So I'm busy reading the manual to figure out what the minimum amount of car security I can turn on is.
Other boxes are a new AC condenser, and evaporator. Also a new drier, and pressure switch.
And the last one is the Aisin Clutch Master.
That's it for now! The two day's are done, and I have to head back to work tomorrow. I also get to hope that the IP comes back for the faux-lux, so I can have a drivable truck again...
Dan
Rock lights!
A small (efficient) fan!
Why, you might ask?
That way, when the webasto is running, that little fan (which draws about 0.5A, and flows maybe 1/3 or 1/2 of the air the blower does, from what I gather) can run, instead of the squirrel cage blower. So that the truck can be defrosted and at least a little warm.
Now, I know what you are thinking: and yes, having to trudge outside in the cold to flip a switch to turn the webasto on sucks.
But that won't be my problem!
It's supposed to have a 1 mile range, and I'm going to wire the remote start function to turn on the webasto. Haven't decided what (if anything) to do with the 4 aux functions it has. I'm thinking maybe of turning on the rock lights or roof rack lights. It would certainly make it easy to find the truck in a big parking lot!
I want as little of the security system possible though. I hate car alarms. So I'm busy reading the manual to figure out what the minimum amount of car security I can turn on is.
Other boxes are a new AC condenser, and evaporator. Also a new drier, and pressure switch.
And the last one is the Aisin Clutch Master.
That's it for now! The two day's are done, and I have to head back to work tomorrow. I also get to hope that the IP comes back for the faux-lux, so I can have a drivable truck again...
Dan
Beautiful work and a cool project to say the least.
Completely agreed, beautiful!
As for the exhaust, why are you crossing over to the driver side? Looks like you have plenty of room to run it down and out on the passenger side.
As for the exhaust, why are you crossing over to the driver side? Looks like you have plenty of room to run it down and out on the passenger side.
also interested to know why you are crossing over to the other side. Maybe its obvious with the cab back on? seems like it would really heat soak the floor and maybe even the transmission with the way its routed now. Would it give you any additional clearance to order and utilize some of that 3'' oval shaped pipe?
DanS HJ-45
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- Thread starter
- #289
The reason I was planning on crossing over was to move the exhaust away from the brake line. I figure warming up the fuel lines isn't so bad.
But I suppose I could pretty easily run the exhaust along the right frame rail next to the driveshaft.
I'm not sure if I could fit a muffler in next to the DS though....
Dan
But I suppose I could pretty easily run the exhaust along the right frame rail next to the driveshaft.
I'm not sure if I could fit a muffler in next to the DS though....
Dan
Even if you cross over behind the split case, you're going to be putting significant heat into the brake and fuel lines between the turbo outlet and the transfer case.
I think it's a better plan to keep the exhaust on the PS and wrap it in header wrap all the way back, or at least to the tailpipe. If you need to cross over for the muffler, you can do it behind the aux fuel tank.
I think it's a better plan to keep the exhaust on the PS and wrap it in header wrap all the way back, or at least to the tailpipe. If you need to cross over for the muffler, you can do it behind the aux fuel tank.
DanS HJ-45
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- Thread starter
- #291
Makes sense.
I'll mock that up next time I'm back at the truck--later this month.
If I go the distance on the right side, I'll just keep it on the right all the way to the exit. Once it passes over the axle (immediately after the auxiliary tank) it's just going out the exhaust tip.
I can probably make an aluminum heat shield for the brake line if it becomes an issue I guess.
Dan
I'll mock that up next time I'm back at the truck--later this month.
If I go the distance on the right side, I'll just keep it on the right all the way to the exit. Once it passes over the axle (immediately after the auxiliary tank) it's just going out the exhaust tip.
I can probably make an aluminum heat shield for the brake line if it becomes an issue I guess.
Dan
I agree and remember you're going to have to we get that pipe on and off again from time to time with the body in place. Whenever possible I try keep extra room around things because you never know when you need to get your hand up in there to do something.
Maybe you can get it ceramic coated to reflect more heat back to the inside of the pipe.
Pete
Maybe you can get it ceramic coated to reflect more heat back to the inside of the pipe.
Pete
We ran our exhaust on the passenger side. Plenty of room but I am tight where we installed the long range fuel tank.
Have a 90 HDT-1 with it's 5 speed in my 60.
Have a 90 HDT-1 with it's 5 speed in my 60.
I moved my brake and fuel lines to the driver side because that's where the feed and return are on my motor, but the concept is the same. You can see the downpipe wrap in the top picture.
I was going to ask why you were crossing over with the exhaust as well, but looks like I'm late to the party, lol. Cool idea with the computer fan for the webasto, interested to see how well that works for you.
- Joined
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- Location
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- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
Having the brake line on the passenger side of a LHD 60 makes no sense! Put the brake line on the other side, there's tons of room and lots of factory captive nuts (from the passenger side 2F exhaust brackets you aren't using) to secure it with nice clips, OE-style. I would still wrap the exhaust and heat shield it between it and the floor and fuel line though, don't want to melt your undercoating.
wrapping the exhaust will just be a moisture and dirt trap for an offroad rig. I doubt the exhaust is going to build any significant heat anyway being 3'' in diameter and especially if you decide to run no muffler. my 61 sounds amazing with no muffler. Since you are making fuel lines and such I agree would be easy enough to redo your brake lines and run them on the driver side since the master is on that side anyway.
Disagree. The exhaust will be 1000* or more coming out of the turbo (depending on his tune). Dirt isn't an issue and moisture will burn off really quick.
Muffler is up to personal preference, but wrap is a good idea.
the exhaust will be that hot directly after the turbo not the exhaust pipe. Even with extended drives pulling long hills the pipe will not get anywhere near 1k degrees.
Sure it will. Pyro temps into the turbo can be as hot as 1400* and there's only a 2-300* drop through the turbine housing. That means that exhaust gas enters the exhaust pipe at ~1000*.
Will the exhaust reach 1000* while driving? Maybe not, but I would expect at least 800*, which would still boil brake fluid.
Wrap the exhaust.
