Builds Who likes addition? (FJ-60 + 1HZ) (3 Viewers)

[DamoPeru]

@damienperu
I ordered more (thicker) viton fuel lines from McMaster-Carr. MUCH happier with these. They feel like solid, warm rubber lines.

The part number for the 3/8" (10mm) stuff is 5119K52

High-Temperature Viton Fluoroelastomer Tubing Soft, 3/8" ID, 5/8" OD, 1/8" Wall, Black, 5 ft. Length

The smaller line (for the return) is 5119K49.

None of it is cheap, but I'm pleased with it.

Dan

Thanks Dan. Much appreciated!

 

[peteinjp]

Looking great Dan- What do you use for underbody paint? I'm getting ready to paint my axle housing and already have it coated in epoxy primer. I'm thinking of going with epoxy black on top of that but it would be nice to use some thing that could be touched up easier- or will just never need touching up....

Pete

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Looking great Dan- What do you use for underbody paint? I'm getting ready to paint my axle housing and already have it coated in epoxy primer. I'm thinking of going with epoxy black on top of that but it would be nice to use some thing that could be touched up easier- or will just never need touching up....

Pete

For the frame I just used POR Chassis Black, brushed on. I wish I would have sprayed it--it would look better.

The rear axle is epoxy primed (Omni I am sure) and then chassis black paint. The front is epoxy primed, and then POR 15 chassis black brushed on. I will sand the front axle a bit and then put chassis black or satin black paint over it all.

For touch up, I use a primer/paint rattle can of satin black. In fact you can see where I touched up the frame after I ground on it and added the brackets to hold the fuel lines. Can't tell it was ever touched now.

The fuel tank (and hardware) were all painted with the rattle can primer/paint satin black. I'll try to get a pic of it next time I'm in the shop for you.

Just a note on the epoxy primer, you will get MUCH better adhesion if you quickly scuff the primer, and then put down a light coat of epoxy primer just before you start painting. The epoxy primer will *grip* both the material under it (in this case the older epoxy primer/metal) and the paint above it. The Omni epoxy primer I use says to paint within 7 days for exactly this reason--I typically paint a few hours after the epoxy primer is on.

Dan

 

[DamoPeru]

Hi Dan, does your label maker require special ink cartridges and special heat shrink in rolls, or can you feed through any flat strips of heat shrink and does the ink last 'forever' relatively speaking? Keep up the good work! Cheers, Damien

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Hi Dan, does your label maker require special ink cartridges and special heat shrink in rolls, or can you feed through any flat strips of heat shrink and does the ink last 'forever' relatively speaking? Keep up the good work! Cheers, Damien

It takes special cartridges. The cartridges are ink and the shrink tubing. There are multiple color combinations too (white ink on black tubing, etc...)

I haven't had it long enough to know how long the ink lasts, but I imagine it's pretty permanent.

The cartridges are clearly where the company makes their money. The labelmaker that prints these things was only $90 IIRC. The cartridges aren't cheap, but not terrible since I only use the printed heat shrink at the ends of the wires. But so far, I'm super pleased with it. No more trying to read my scribbles for me!

Dan

 

[DamoPeru]

It takes special cartridges. The cartridges are ink and the shrink tubing. There are multiple color combinations too (white ink on black tubing, etc...)

I haven't had it long enough to know how long the ink lasts, but I imagine it's pretty permanent.

The cartridges are clearly where the company makes their money. The labelmaker that prints these things was only $90 IIRC. The cartridges aren't cheap, but not terrible since I only use the printed heat shrink at the ends of the wires. But so far, I'm super pleased with it. No more trying to read my scribbles for me!

Dan

Thanks for the feedback. I've been wanting one of these for ages, was looking at the + model that does up to 10 or 11mm heat shrink, especially now that I'm about to undo all my previous handiwork and I've noticed that much of my scribbled labels are illegible! I guess the cartridges won't be an issue if I can buy many of them at once and they last at least 2 years. You're right about where they make their money, they tell you about a million features but nothing on their website about the actual functioning, duration, size, price etc of the ink

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Thanks for the feedback. I've been wanting one of these for ages, was looking at the + model that does up to 10 or 11mm heat shrink, especially now that I'm about to undo all my previous handiwork and I've noticed that much of my scribbled labels are illegible! I guess the cartridges won't be an issue if I can buy many of them at once and they last at least 2 years. You're right about where they make their money, they tell you about a million features but nothing on their website about the actual functioning, duration, size, price etc of the ink

Yep. I figured buying one was an expensive gamble. But so far I'm happy with it.

I ordered the cartridges form Amazon, and I bought a couple (different size tube, and different colors)

Dan

 

[mongoose2231]

this thread is inspiring. holy crap.

 

[subzali]

this thread is inspiring. holy crap.

This thread is nothing compared to meeting Dan in person. After wheeling with him the first thing I wanted to do when I got home was tear out my 2F and go diesel.


Sent from my iPhone

 

[DanS HJ-45]

This thread is nothing compared to meeting Dan in person. After wheeling with him the first thing I wanted to do when I got home was tear out my 2F and go diesel.


Sent from my iPhone

I tend to have that effect on people.

 

[Ctenosaurian]

I saw you had a part in Onur's decision to 1HZ his 60. Good work!

 

[DanS HJ-45]

I saw you had a part in Onur's decision to 1HZ his 60. Good work!

Like I said: I have that effect on people.

I can't help it.

Dan

 

[DanS HJ-45]

I got to come stay with Mom and Dad for the night while at work.

Naturally, Dad and I headed up to the shop to get some stuff done.

First, needed to unload this guy...

That's a 4x4 Labs rear bumper with dual swingouts.

Also this:

From @reevesci its a ComeUp Seal Gen2 12.5rs. I didn't really care about the remote, but it's all that was in stock, so....

I also mounted some stuff on my center console. Thanks @NLXTACY !

And:

Not pictured: the mounting for the FTM-400DR which will go beneath the center console. The control unit is always remote mounted with it, so you can guess where that will go, and I will use an external speaker because I don't know how well I will hear the speaker underneath the center console.

Dan

 

[broth9640]

That label maker is sick! I love it!

 

[DanS HJ-45]

I've got two days to work on the 60....

Things have been steadily arriving.

Dan

 

[Ctenosaurian]

What a tease!

 

[DanS HJ-45]

What a tease!

Yeah. That's how it is.

But I'll open up one of the boxes to let you see what is coming....

3 inch, 304 stainless. I'll be using all V-band connections, and I also have some stainless bar to bend and connect the exhaust using the Toyota exhaust isolator blocks.

And while that is all cool and stuff, here's the most amazing part of the exhaust. I had no idea this would be as nice as it is when I ordered it.

I'll give as big of a thumbs up to ATP TURBO - The Premiere Provider of Turbocharging Components as possible for this thing (this is the ATP-FLS-023). I'll translate that part number: It's a turbo exhaust to 3" V Band adapter for the GT28 Turbo that Turboglide uses, all stainless steel.

As soon as the engine is in the frame (maybe tomorrow, if I work well), I can start fabricating the exhaust. Which I really want to do before I set the body on the frame--because I intend to run the exhaust above the T-case rear output, and ahead of the auxiliary fuel tank. It will be tight, and I doubt an exhaust shop (even a really good one) will be as fiddly as I expect it to require.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Another thing I did was strip the left side of the engine, clean it, paint it, and put it back together with new seals.

Before:

Good news when I removed the oil cooler! Not bad looking in there. Which is probably the healthiest mine engine I have ever seen opened up.

And here's an "after" pic:

And the new oil pressure sender looks so incredibly sexy on there!

I also accomplished my main goal today of powder coating the T-case halves, and other T-case bits so that tomorrow I can hopefully mate the engine to transmission and T-case, and set the whole thing in the frame. Hopefully. No promises yet.

Somehow, I didn't take pictures of the T-case halves. But they look as good as a machinery gray powder coated part can. Even taking the abrasive blaster to the things the australian red dirt was incredibly difficult to remove. I spent nearly 5 hours blasting those two bits alone today.

Dan

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Are you planning on using TIG to weld the entire exhaust? Man, that's a lot of welding with MIG, I bet it'd take twice as long with TIG.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Are you planning on using TIG to weld the entire exhaust? Man, that's a lot of welding with MIG, I bet it'd take twice as long with TIG.

I'm not entirely sure yet.

I have never welded 304 SS with our MiG setup before. I know it can be done, but I don't know how well it *really* works.

If it's decent, I'll weld it all myself.

At the least, I'll tack it up using our MiG, and then take the pieces into town to let a welder TiG them up really pretty.

Dan