Who has a 4 inch lift? (2 Viewers)
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LFD2037
TEXAS LEXUS!
I see a lot of you running Slee kits & are happy w/them. But, I can't help but think technology has allowed spring/shock manufacturers to create something better since the Slee kit was created. Yes/no?
That may be true but the Slee kits are about more than the shocks and springs. It is a complete kit that ensures your vehicle suspension operates the way it was intended to operate. As soon as you lift your vehicle over about 2.5 inches it is no longer set up as originally intended.
The Slee kit allows you to true it back up. The reason so many people like this lift is because it works extremely well. I had the IPOR 3.5 inch setup before I went to Slee's 4 inch heavy lift. The difference is significant both on-road and off-road.
LFD2037
TEXAS LEXUS!
Understood. Is the the only all encompassing kit? I've been contemplating moving up to a 4" w/35's. REEEEAAAAAALLY don't want it to make it a PITA to do looooong road trips and overlanding. Now I'm at 2.5" w/33's and it's served me well. Thanks.
Not sure if it is the only one. I believe there are others. Don't know how they compare. An 80 from the showroom weighed about 4800 lbs. Mine nows weighs 6800 with all of the armor and gear I carry around. The Slee heavy lift is build specifically for this and it is the primary reason I picked it.
Food for thougth: You can do almost everything with a 2.5 inch lift and 33's that you can do with a 4 inch lift with 35 and you gearing is not out of whack. Once you move to 35's you may want to regear. I did because you lose a little zip on the highway when you move to 35s.
I am not sorry I went to the 4 inch lift because I rarely touch the bottom of the vehicle when wheeling unless I purposely decide I want to take on a rock climb (which is rare).
With that said, moving up is expensive. The lift itself is expensive and regearing is too.
Food for thougth: You can do almost everything with a 2.5 inch lift and 33's that you can do with a 4 inch lift with 35 and you gearing is not out of whack. Once you move to 35's you may want to regear. I did because you lose a little zip on the highway when you move to 35s.
I am not sorry I went to the 4 inch lift because I rarely touch the bottom of the vehicle when wheeling unless I purposely decide I want to take on a rock climb (which is rare).
With that said, moving up is expensive. The lift itself is expensive and regearing is too.
I use a 1" spacer on top of the 3" tapered coil to get 4" lift in front. Front shocks are Dobinson's inexpensive, yellow shocks that are in the same price range as OME but they ride much smoother,softer and paired with the tapered coils the front end rides nicely.
In the rear I have the tried and true Slee 4" progressive, heavies. Even with bumpers and armor, when my rig is not loaded these springs give 5"+ lift but I can load everything I want for a trip and still maintain 4" of lift. These springs are progressive so when unloaded my 80 is riding on the lower rate, closely wound coils that make the top three turns of the spring. Rear shocks are still the stiff ass OME "L" shocks but, again, these shocks do well when loaded up. When my rig is empty, I could do without the Slee heavies but, I love their solid, confident feel when my rig is loaded.
I used the Slee castor correction plates. My rear control arms are Metal Tech adjustable upper and lower. Both of my drive shafts are double cardan. At 4" of lit and with proper castor correction, you will need a front DC shaft for sure unless you go part time. I did both.
Fox 2.0's way better soft ride-$500
863j' rear with just rear swing out jumper (864-for anything heavier)$164
850j front with 1 inch spacer front winch and bumper-$200
Man-a-free DROP BRACKETS 4 inch rather than plates or (no poly bushings unless you mall crawl)-$300
Front/rear sway at drop brackets make them yourself or buy them-$100
Ran this 4 inch set up many times and never needed to mess with a double cardan. Maybe it's because of the drop bracket and where they relocate the pinion by dropping the whole co troll arm to stock.
Have to rig the brake lines by unbilting them from the frame mounts and lengthen the breather
863j' rear with just rear swing out jumper (864-for anything heavier)$164
850j front with 1 inch spacer front winch and bumper-$200
Man-a-free DROP BRACKETS 4 inch rather than plates or (no poly bushings unless you mall crawl)-$300
Front/rear sway at drop brackets make them yourself or buy them-$100
Ran this 4 inch set up many times and never needed to mess with a double cardan. Maybe it's because of the drop bracket and where they relocate the pinion by dropping the whole co troll arm to stock.
Have to rig the brake lines by unbilting them from the frame mounts and lengthen the breather
Ohh add adjustable weld on slee bungs to the upper rear control arms and the rear pan hard to control pinion angle and relocate the axle back to stock. Keeps OEM rubber.
canadian bum
SILVER Star
Reviving an old thread but better than starting from scratch really. But with all the offerings out there now what are people finding with their 80 series suspensions. I'm looking at doing a 4 inch lift of some sort would like to have good ride, flex, and load carrying capacity. I know that's asking a lot but a good all rounder should be able to be achieved. Also going to look hard into doing a front radius arm flip to maintain geometry. Isn't hard for me to do in comparison to other builds I've done but just want to have a good suspension start. Kings would be nice for shocks but they don't like life in winter climates. I'll probably end up mounting up some remote res bilsteins of custom length to get the most out of suspension travel. Was looking at the 8100 series without the bypasses.
The new hot deal is supposedly the Dobbinson VT series variable rate coils in 2.5” and 3.5” versions. If your rig is heavy Slee 4” is a high quality choice. They offer a heavy duty rear 4” spring that they call progressive because the top three coils are wrapped close together.
A few years now I’ve run a mix with the original Dobbinson 3.5” variable rate springs up front with a 1” spacer on top and the slee heavy progressive springs in the rear.
There is a thread in the stickies section that contains much info concerning suspension options that have come onto the market over the last few years.
The springs I mentioned here will give more than advertised lift if your rig isn’t weighted down with plenty if kit and other gear.
Compiled 80 series suspension component spec thread... shocks, coils & more.
80 series coil & shock specs A few years back 80 series suspension was fairly easy to figure out & purchase since there was only a few of options to chose from. Recently there has been a few suppliers stepping up to play in the USA 80 series market offering more options. Now with a plethora of...
forum.ih8mud.com
A thread from 2017 is getting kind of old on this topic.
There's still a bunch of old faithful products, but also a load of new ones.
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This is my new setup. A lot of equipment, but the ride is great on and off road.
Dobinsons vt springs
fox 2.0 shocks
Delta radius arms
Delta bump stop extensions
Delta sway bar drops
Delta rear panhard bracket
Dobinsons adjustable front panhard
Dobinsons adjustable rear upper control arms
Dobinsons adjustable rear lower control arms
Dobinsons lbpv bracket
+all new bushings and end links
Dobinsons vt springs
fox 2.0 shocks
Delta radius arms
Delta bump stop extensions
Delta sway bar drops
Delta rear panhard bracket
Dobinsons adjustable front panhard
Dobinsons adjustable rear upper control arms
Dobinsons adjustable rear lower control arms
Dobinsons lbpv bracket
+all new bushings and end links
Still very happy with my Ironman 4" springs/shocks. Daily driver, road trips, and wheeling in the rocks.
DVS 4" high clearance radius arms
Double cardan front drive shaft
DVS 3" rear panhard lift bracket
Landtank/Wits End rear lower links for 4" lift
All new OEM bushings/hardware
I don't buy into the hype of adjustable links that keep the axles under the truck. I've seen too many fail.
Stock front/rear panhards
Stock upper rear links
DVS 4" high clearance radius arms
Double cardan front drive shaft
DVS 3" rear panhard lift bracket
Landtank/Wits End rear lower links for 4" lift
All new OEM bushings/hardware
I don't buy into the hype of adjustable links that keep the axles under the truck. I've seen too many fail.
Stock front/rear panhards
Stock upper rear links
canadian bum
SILVER Star
I'd never buy a prefabbed link. They are a premium and I only use EMF parts when I do build my own links. Can get a way higher premium part if you build it yourself. I've also seen the prefabbed links fail completely, pulling threads out and bending.
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
Same.
I have a 4” hvy FR / 4” hvy/prog’s RR & a ton of reworked caster plates & extended LWR RR arms over kepping my upper adj links, yadda about adj panhards ….
When you find the springs that work best for you, then fix out the rest of your suspension to make those coils work like you were driving a stock 80.
I found mine, you just have to chase it all down.
MrMikeyG
SILVER Star
I'm still confused regarding the amount of adjustable bits and pieces one needs at the 4" lift stage. Would the added expense of custom radius arms negate any of the other adjustable stuff? (Panhards, stabilizers, etc)
It looks like @jonheld stated above that he has retained a lot of the stock pieces by using drop brackets and custom radius arms. Is that a mostly correct interpretation?
I've merely begun the on-paper shopping stage. Research is the name of the game for me right now. I feel like I know what my current build can do, and I feel like I would like a bit more "wiggle room."
It looks like @jonheld stated above that he has retained a lot of the stock pieces by using drop brackets and custom radius arms. Is that a mostly correct interpretation?
I've merely begun the on-paper shopping stage. Research is the name of the game for me right now. I feel like I know what my current build can do, and I feel like I would like a bit more "wiggle room."
@MrMikeyG Aftermarket arms are for correcting caster & adding clearance, then adjustable panhard centers front axle. Rear axle, you can do a panhard lift bracket to correct its angle, which helps recenter the axle as well. Also the 3 extended brake lines, longer diff breathers, and with caster correction at ~4" you'll need a double cardan front shaft.
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The easiest way to look at a 4” IMHO is to goto sleeoffroad.com and view the 4” kit. Point click ship or buy the equivalent stuff from what ever other vendor you choose. You need all the stuff to maintain the suspension geometry. Skipping anything will have a negative effect. Could you live with some parts. Maybe but why compromise safety or ride quality.
Custom radius arms will negate the need for caster plates.
The hard part about 4” is you kind of need to go all in right away. It’s really hard to install parts over time and still drive the truck without having issues. Example, if you don’t extend the brake lines you run the risk of over extending one and loosing brakes.
Custom radius arms will negate the need for caster plates.
The hard part about 4” is you kind of need to go all in right away. It’s really hard to install parts over time and still drive the truck without having issues. Example, if you don’t extend the brake lines you run the risk of over extending one and loosing brakes.
I have DVS radius arms and a DVS panhard lift bracket. I made custom spacers for the front swaybar and have a Tom Woods double cardan front drive shaft. I bought the Wits End/Landtank lower rear trailing arms. Everything else is OEM. I personally hate the idea of adjustable bars that keep the axles under the truck. If you're prototyping a suspension system and need to move things around to get measurements, that's one thing. But to have them on a daily driver/weekend warrior makes no sense to me.
The axles are constantly moving side to side as the suspension compresses and extends during normal driving. All you're doing is setting a static position.
In any case, I'm quite happy with the on road and off road experience.
