Whiteline rear swaybar (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Oct 27, 2003
Threads
470
Messages
9,784
Location
North Cadillac
AC2FB617-527D-47BA-9728-B5018040D87A.jpeg
just installed this beautiful piece of metal. A lot beefier than OEM.

Fit great and so far based on short in-town trips, handling is improved.

44337400-27B3-4A69-91EB-CFFBFC47618B.jpeg


20E9A5EF-A57F-4957-BC26-075321BEC9A1.jpeg
 
Noice. Slee panhard there too? Keep us updated on the handling improvement; I'm looking into the same thing and hoping this is the solution to some pretty crazy body roll. (That's what I get for putting a rooftop tent on an already topheavy SUV...)
 
I helped a friend install his and remember we had to trim part of the swaybar ends... basically cut the corner off to fit. Maybe they corrected the design. Check for full range of motion.
 
I am whiteline front and rear and I believe they have changed their design, the old pictures I saw had square ends, the new bars the ends have a slight taper.

I helped a friend install his and remember we had to trim part of the swaybar ends... basically cut the corner off to fit. Maybe they corrected the design. Check for full range of motion.
 
Just a bit of info, the rear axle is one place you don't want to increase roll stiffness unless you also increased the front as well. As the truck leans, you want the front axle to resist the majority of that lean (Roll stiffness) which encourages the front to push (plow) rather than the rear axle to break free and swing around. I can go into why this occurs but am too tired tonight.

I don't know if the new rear bar provides more roll stiffness as that is a function of bar diameter to the 4th power and leverage applied to the bar. If it does not great, or reduces stiffness, even better. If the rear bar does provide more roll stiffens, I would increase the front roll stiffness in a similar manner or consider putting the stock rear stability bar back in.

Frank
 
Just a bit of info, the rear axle is one place you don't want to increase roll stiffness unless you also increased the front as well. As the truck leans, you want the front axle to resist the majority of that lean (Roll stiffness) which encourages the front to push (plow) rather than the rear axle to break free and swing around. I can go into why this occurs but am too tired tonight.

I don't know if the new rear bar provides more roll stiffness as that is a function of bar diameter to the 4th power and leverage applied to the bar. If it does not great, or reduces stiffness, even better. If the rear bar does provide more roll stiffens, I would increase the front roll stiffness in a similar manner or consider putting the stock rear stability bar back in.

Frank

Well Frank, you may be correct....but what if the truck had under steer before adding more rear roll stiffness, and with the new bar (more rear roll stiffness) the truck is now neutral? Then would it be ok to install the larger rear bar?
I get what you are saying....however nearly every vehicle sold in America pushes like mad as built.....I don't like push, (that dog won't hunt), neutral to slightly loose fits me.....just saying.
 
You want understeer especially in a high profile vehicle like our trucks. All vehicles push because 99% of people overcorrect in an oversteer situation which can lead to roll overs. In our trucks, oversteer period can lead to roll overs once you start sliding sideways - something that can occur even with neutral sliding. Pushing is much easier to control and recover and the truck is unlikely to flip sliding forwards.

If you can tune your suspension well enough to get it to neutral and have the driving skills to avoid an over correction great. Typically one finds these things out in a split second avoidance maneuver, not the best time for a surprise.

Frank
 
i had to grind the corner off of mine too, in order for it to fit in the bracket.

it's stout for sure.
 
Seems like it hangs ever lower than the stock bar. Rock anchors for sure.
 
it doesn't hang any lower than stock. I didn't take a picture of the before and after.
 
You want understeer especially in a high profile vehicle like our trucks. All vehicles push because 99% of people overcorrect in an oversteer situation which can lead to roll overs. In our trucks, oversteer period can lead to roll overs once you start sliding sideways - something that can occur even with neutral sliding. Pushing is much easier to control and recover and the truck is unlikely to flip sliding forwards.

If you can tune your suspension well enough to get it to neutral and have the driving skills to avoid an over correction great. Typically one finds these things out in a split second avoidance maneuver, not the best time for a surprise.

Frank
Not everyone wants more understeer. Using common sense while driving and not panicking in emergency situations (which may never happen) will help avoid mishaps. But offroad travelling fast, getting the rear to rotate better is a welcome change IMO.
 
it doesn't hang any lower than stock. I didn't take a picture of the before and after.

About 2.5mm lower:meh: but at 30mm in dia. it will be much harder to bend if it does get contact:)

Whiteline chart shows the 30mm bar at 107% more torsion over the stock 25mm bar. For my set up it was easily a 107% improvement on the road or more.
 
Also, FYI, their website doesn't show a current front swaybar application. So either they are out of stock, stopped making them or never had them. Not sure which.
 
Also, FYI, their website doesn't show a current front swaybar application. So either they are out of stock, stopped making them or never had them. Not sure which.

Whiteline BTF66X
 
The website says it cannot find that part number.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom