White-Knuckle Offroad Sliders

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Are you running a oem rear bumper, and where are the km 2's in you sig on the picture? Great shots by the way.

KM-2's when on after this trip, this exact trip was the deciding factor why I replaced the AT's.

I am running the OEM bumper, what's left of it... some zip ties and a bolt holding it on. It has gashes, gouges, scrapes and all the pretty stuff.


I took a cool picture of the KM-2's the other day, I'll post it here in a second since I think you can see part of the slider...

EDIT: picture inserted for Yukon LX :steer:
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KM-2's when on after this trip, this exact trip was the deciding factor why I replaced the AT's.

I am running the OEM bumper, what's left of it... some zip ties and a bolt holding it on. It has gashes, gouges, scrapes and all the pretty stuff.


I took a cool picture of the KM-2's the other day, I'll post it here in a second since I think you can see part of the slider...

EDIT: picture inserted for Yukon LX :steer:

KM2s look great. congrats on the new shoes. How is the 305 size v 295. and my oem bumber scares me. i come back with less of it every time i go down anything more than a freshly paved road. How is the traction with the KMs
 
KM2s look great. congrats on the new shoes. How is the 305 size v 295. and my oem bumber scares me. i come back with less of it every time i go down anything more than a freshly paved road. How is the traction with the KMs

They are slightly wider (obviously) that the 295's. the tread is much deeper than the AT's so from a quick glimpse they look a little taller. My AT's had 22K on them when I ditched them and could not be happier on road with the KM-2. Sure, they are a bit louder,no doubt. At low speeds they rumble a little bit but whatever.I have yet to take them wheeling, which that will be next weekend hopefully. I will be giving a full report on what I think about them sometime around Nov. 5-7 when my trip is over.

My AT's were a total disaster at RiverRock (local ORV), which led me to switch so early, I loved them, great on the road, pretty good offroad, excellent in the rain. The KM-2's are great on the road, so far they are great on gravel and dirt roads (I can't get the back end out nearly as much with these). I can't say they are "fabulous" in the rain, but they are what they are and I can't complain.

My OEM bumper is wrecked, every time I wheel, I slam it into something, I am truly thrilled it is still attached.
 
KM-2's when on after this trip, this exact trip was the deciding factor why I replaced the AT's.

I am running the OEM bumper, what's left of it... some zip ties and a bolt holding it on. It has gashes, gouges, s****es and all the pretty stuff.


I took a cool picture of the KM-2's the other day, I'll post it here in a second since I think you can see part of the slider...

EDIT: picture inserted for Yukon LX :steer:

I'm still wondering why you took off your IPFs
 
Opinions on the WKOR slider options...

Looking at the WKOR sliders for the Hundy (damn you guys...making me want to spend money that I don't have!!! :doh: :D).

I like the idea of getting the bare metal ones then just hitting them with some primer and flat black rustolem or VHT, that way if I scuff them up I can retouch them easily and it will match.

For those of you who wheel and have the powdercoated variety, how well has it held up? I'm not a hardcore offroad guy by any means, but I'd like to get into it a little more as time and money allow, and get more involved with the local club.

So, give me your opinions on both. Save the money and go bare metal/rattle can, or fork out the $100 and have them powdercoated? Just mulling over my options here. TIA.
 
Not trying to be negative, but for those reading this and contemplating new sliders I have something to bring up.

I personally could not live with these. The tubing comes out close to 90-degrees from the main steel. Compared to Slee's design these White Knuckle's give up what looks like a good inch and a half on ground clearance. That's a big-time loss on this vehicle.

Slee's tubing is angled quite a bit and they tuck much closer to the body. This difference will become apparent quickly on very rocky trails. In the picture below I'd bet (going by the picture) my Slee slider would not have been touching and therefore not "hanging" the truck/traction up. So for me...I will demand the added ground clearance. Plus the overall width is more narrow with the Slee's. The 100 is FAT enough. Having those tubes tucked in helps that way as well. The White Knuckle's stick way out.

As far as the argument about "protection". The Slee's have provided me and hundreds of others enough for years. Me, 150 trips and 150K miles. Will the WK's provide more? Maybe...but at a dear cost clearance and width-wise.

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Like anything, there's no one-best product. For me, I need the clearance!
 
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I think rattle can is better because of the easy touch up...but there is no doubt that powdercoat is way more durable...no matter what option you go with, WKOR sliders are a good price!
 
I know you said WKOR, but I have Bumpitoffroad's sliders and they are powdercoated. I don't go out and completely tear mine up like some do (Nick, :flipoff2:) but a rattle can fixes the roughed up areas just fine...
 
Imo, the best is to get it powdercoated and then rattle can over the PC. Powdercoating can better cover the little nooks and crannies and protect from rust.
 
I know you said WKOR, but I have Bumpitoffroad's sliders and they are powdercoated. I don't go out and completely tear mine up like some do (Nick, :flipoff2:) but a rattle can fixes the roughed up areas just fine...

Oh please. I baby mine on the trail. Return my email!


I went with spray paint since I was goin to use em. To me, a 100 dollars on PC is not worth it. You will get a 50/50 on this board. If you want a nice clean finish that durable than go with PC.

If you want a finish that looks alright, but you don't feel bad when you see $4 being scraped away by a rock. Go with te rattle can.


You can't go wrong with either IMO
 
John,

Anthony's front wheel was full droop ( you can't argue yours wouldn't be either). You have another inch of lift, 35's, etc. WKOR main slider rail is horizontal with a 45* pitch upward. Slees main tube is vertical. I have seen Slee sliders, the outrigger may sit up higher, but it will not protect the doors nearly as well ( assuming the rock is tall, straight and at the right angle.

I'll take extra width, and quarter panel protection. I have seen a 100 with SS and climbs a slick hill. The slider was used to keep the body off the dirt embankment. The WKOR caught the embankment and pushed my 100 away. The SS were tucked in so much the door hit.

It's your wheeling vs mine. Different regions, different terrain.
 
Completely non-trail question: which of the two score higher on the Wife Factor? Can the both be used equally well as steps? I know the Slee has a textured tread option. Fuzz listen up, you might need this selling point at home! :)
 
Completely non-trail question: which of the two score higher on the Wife Factor? Can the both be used equally well as steps? I know the Slee has a textured tread option. Fuzz listen up, you might need this selling point at home! :)

I'll give that one to Slee's SliderSteps.

Although the WKOR are to bad. Kickout makes it nice to hop in the back.
 
Oh please. I baby mine on the trail. Return my email!


I went with spray paint since I was goin to use em. To me, a 100 dollars on PC is not worth it. You will get a 50/50 on this board. If you want a nice clean finish that durable than go with PC.

If you want a finish that looks alright, but you don't feel bad when you see $4 being s****ed away by a rock. Go with te rattle can.


You can't go wrong with either IMO

Nick is the rattlecan master lol:D
 
Imo, the best is to get it powdercoated and then rattle can over the PC. Powdercoating can better cover the little nooks and crannies and protect from rust.

and PC wont get chipped in the winter from all the crap on the roads.
 
John,


not trying to pick a argument here. But would your sliders protect your body in one of these situations?

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using the slider to pivot the vehicle? Your sliders tuck in to far, you would be on the door at that point.
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I believe the wider slider can be very useful. I can try to side swipe a concrete pillar and my slider will hit before the body. Saving my body from damage on tall objects. Similar to the climbs pictured above.
 
Nick has a good point there. I see how having the sliders stick out more would create more protection by spacing the rock in question away from the body. But I guess its a question of ground clearance vs. overhang from the sliders? It might be something for me to contemplate before making my slider purchase
 
I need the clearance!

:confused:OK correct me if I'm wrong but both sliders use U bolts to the frame before extending out to the main slider rail. As from the pictures Slee's look vertical sitting up against the body and WK are horizontal leaving small small gap. I would like to see them side by side to compare but either way the lowest point is going to be the same with the bracket at the frame and I would think maybe at most you might be off at most .25" at the main slider rail and that can be adjusted with a :wrench: and the U bolts. :idea:
 
. I would like to see them side by side to compare but either way the lowest point is going to be the same with the bracket at the frame

Here's one I saw from 2000UZJ and Pman...maybe they have other pics to use for comparison

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