Mobile 1 15W 50 for "leaky"... works good as rust proofing too 
Which oil are you using? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter deltapine1
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #43
The diesel oils have ZDDP or friction modifiers and wear additives in them. Most of them are capable of holding more ash deposits, silicates and other impurities in suspensions at a higher level.
As for over off the shelf oils they are a better choice.
As for over off the shelf oils they are a better choice.
ZDDP is also being phased out of the diesel engine oils since the government has required diesel engines have cats since 2007. So, Chevron Delo and Shell Rotella are no longer useful for ZDDP content. Engine oil composition is a moving target, or dare I say, a slippery slope. What is true today is not necessarily true tomorrow. So, before you settle on any oil, do your homework and contact the manufacturers for PPM ZDDP. And then check back at least once a year to see if they have changed the formula. Time and engine oil composition is moving on, leaving our old engine technology at risk.
What is true today is not necessarily true tomorrow. So, before you settle on any oil, do your homework and contact the manufacturers for PPM ZDDP. And then check back at least once a year to see if they have changed the formula. Time and engine oil composition is moving on, leaving our old engine technology at risk.
- Thread starter
- #46
The reason I started using the Comp Cams product pictured below is because of the capricious oil formulations and regulations.
Rotella T 15w 40 and a few splashes of snake oil here and there for good measure.
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
- Threads
- 117
- Messages
- 11,199
- Location
- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
- Website
- www.tlcperformance.com
Every F/2F/3F I've been inside of in the past 5 years has had a wiped cam & lifters. It has always been a weak spot on these engines, but with EP additives being phased out, it's become a consistent problem.
Note that wiping a few lobes off the cam does not happen overnight and does not necessarily produce a driver observable effect, just a gradual loss of power as the defective cylinders lose airflow.
Note that wiping a few lobes off the cam does not happen overnight and does not necessarily produce a driver observable effect, just a gradual loss of power as the defective cylinders lose airflow.
Check it out AMSOIL has z-rod oil line is meant for flat tappet engines, haven't been able to find the ppm for this oil verses the AMSOIL regular 20w-50 etc..
AMSOIL - AMSOIL Z-ROD 10W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil (ZRT)
AMSOIL - AMSOIL Z-ROD 10W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil (ZRT)
Bumping an older thread...
Primary Recommendations
Phosphorus Level (ppm)
Zinc Level (ppm)
Z-RODTM 10W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil (ZRT)
1320
1440
Z-RODTM 20W-50 Synthetic Motor Oil (ZRF)
1320
1440
Secondary Recommendations
Phosphorus Level (ppm)
Zinc Level (ppm)
Premium Protection 10W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil (AMO)
1265
1378
Premium Protection 20W-50 Synthetic Motor Oil (ARO)
1266
1379
Series 3000 5W-30 Synthetic Heavy Duty Diesel Oil (HDD)
1266
1379
15W-40 Synthetic Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil (AME)
1267
1377
AMSOIL Synthetic Racing Oils
Phosphorus Level (ppm)
Zinc Level (ppm)
Dominator® 5W-20 Synthetic Racing Oil (RD20)
1424
1575
Dominator® 10W-30 Synthetic Racing Oil (RD30)
1424
1575
Dominator® 15W-50 Synthetic Racing Oil (RD50)
1424
1575
SAE 60 Super Heavy Weight Synthetic Racing Oil (AHR)
1265
1375
Looking for Castrol GTX Diesel to compare now. I've been running the Delo 400 for years now and working great, but long term with the lower levels of ZDDP and other additives wouldn't mind spending a few $ more for something appropriate for flat t engines.
Last edited:
The racing oils have high levels of zinc and phosphorus, but I didn't think they were recommended for normal engine use because they don't have the detergents, etc that get you to your next oil change. Racers change the oil after every race.
Yes, please post up the GTX Diesel #'s if you find them. I just made the switch to the GTX after reading this thread recently.
10w40 diesel mobil every 3.5k
It doesn't matter what you use within reason, I think the light 5W40 oils are too light, and I think 20W50s are too thick, but thats just me.
I run Rotella T 15w40. Here's why...
It's the Perfect summer viscosity
It has at least 1200ppm ZDDP
It's available at any store you stop into. From Truck Stops, to hardware stores all across America and farther.
NOW... I am thinking SERIOUSLY about Castrol High Mileage for winter use. More than likely a 10W30. It has a real good additive for conditioning old seals, it has good additive package for Cold or low oil pressure starts, it has a great amount of ZDDP and it has great detergents to prevent sludge buildup.
If I didn't have any leaks, I would use Synthetic in a heartbeat, probably Mobil 1 or Amsoil.
I have ran Amsoil and Mobil 1 in other vehicles for years. Good stuff. Put it in and don't worry about it. All you have to do is check the level and let it eat.
I do, however, like clean CLEAN oil, in my FJ, when the oil starts to get dark, it gets changed. I know its a little costly, but I sure don't think it hurts. Whats wrong with taking good care of your baby?
I used to use Blackstone Lab oil analysis on my fleet trucks and from what I have learned, we all change oil too often anyway. And those trucks were used WAY more than the average FJ owner.
WC
I run Rotella T 15w40. Here's why...
It's the Perfect summer viscosity
It has at least 1200ppm ZDDP
It's available at any store you stop into. From Truck Stops, to hardware stores all across America and farther.
NOW... I am thinking SERIOUSLY about Castrol High Mileage for winter use. More than likely a 10W30. It has a real good additive for conditioning old seals, it has good additive package for Cold or low oil pressure starts, it has a great amount of ZDDP and it has great detergents to prevent sludge buildup.
If I didn't have any leaks, I would use Synthetic in a heartbeat, probably Mobil 1 or Amsoil.
I have ran Amsoil and Mobil 1 in other vehicles for years. Good stuff. Put it in and don't worry about it. All you have to do is check the level and let it eat.
I do, however, like clean CLEAN oil, in my FJ, when the oil starts to get dark, it gets changed. I know its a little costly, but I sure don't think it hurts. Whats wrong with taking good care of your baby?
I used to use Blackstone Lab oil analysis on my fleet trucks and from what I have learned, we all change oil too often anyway. And those trucks were used WAY more than the average FJ owner.
WC
Last edited:
Just read through this thread...and am confused. Then re-read this post from JimC...anybody else worried by what he says? Not he says "every" not "some" or "most."
Bad news...my motor needs a new cam. Good news...my motor needs a new hi-po cam!
All joking aside...my 60 is a bit weak...I wonder if this is the root cause? Compression is good (even on the high side).
Then again, don't forget that the 2F Cams are made out of Melted down Garden Tools and Donkey Shoes.
WC
WC
Rotella T 15w40
Doesn't matter where the discussion comes up, I've owned big truck 80000 GVWR (Cummins engine), Jeeps, VW diesels, and now Cruisers, a lot of guys preferred the Rotella oil. So I've been using it for a long time and so far never a problem.
VW is very specific about what oil to use. They say use of anything else voids warranty. Asked the VW mechanic. He says he would use Rotella T and not worry about the warranty. The VW now has 180,000 on it and still runs pretty strong.
Cruiser now has 269xxx and hoping for another 100,000 before an overhaul. Lessee, I've put 13,000 on it in 4 years. By the time I retire it should have 280xxx. Probably last me the rest of my life at this rate.
Doesn't matter where the discussion comes up, I've owned big truck 80000 GVWR (Cummins engine), Jeeps, VW diesels, and now Cruisers, a lot of guys preferred the Rotella oil. So I've been using it for a long time and so far never a problem.
VW is very specific about what oil to use. They say use of anything else voids warranty. Asked the VW mechanic. He says he would use Rotella T and not worry about the warranty. The VW now has 180,000 on it and still runs pretty strong.
Cruiser now has 269xxx and hoping for another 100,000 before an overhaul. Lessee, I've put 13,000 on it in 4 years. By the time I retire it should have 280xxx. Probably last me the rest of my life at this rate.
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
- Threads
- 117
- Messages
- 11,199
- Location
- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
- Website
- www.tlcperformance.com
Sounds great! Documentation, please.
Rotella bottles in store are CJ-4 and SM rated, meaning very low metal content to not foul catalysts on new diesel & gas engines.
Sounds great x2! Documentation, please.
Castrol bottles in store are SM rated, meaning very low metal content to not foul catalysts on new gas engines.
I run havolin 20w50 with a qt of lucus oil treatment. I may be a victim of advertising but I read a couple of articles about the Lucus stuff that recommended it. I run it in my tranny and diff's also.
