Which oil are you using? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

If The engine has not been turned over in that many years, I strongly suggest removing the spark plugs and squirting the MMO into each plug a couple times for a couple days, let it sit overnight, then do the startup.
 
If The engine has not been turned over in that many years, I strongly suggest removing the spark plugs and squirting the MMO into each plug a couple times for a couple days, let it sit overnight, then do the startup.
Already done, I will do again. New plugs/wires going in sometime in the near future. Then onto other fluid changes/flushes. Then onto emptying fuel tank etc … then onto a battery and D day. Only thing holding me up is World Series and kids!
 
Already done, I will do again. New plugs/wires going in sometime in the near future. Then onto other fluid changes/flushes. Then onto emptying fuel tank etc … then onto a battery and D day. Only thing holding me up is World Series and kids!

Good luck. If you run out of MMO, the guys I know that restore $$$ classic cars just use cheap transmission fluid over a couple days, change the oil, then try and turn over.

And FWIW, that Rotella T4 or T5 10w30 only has about 1000 ppm anti-wear zinc or less. The 15w40 is 1200 ppm, but as I've stated voluminous times in multiple oil threads is 1200 ppm is the MINIMUM concentration for the engines, but the anti-wear additives get CONSUMED as you drive so very quickly, that 1200ppm drops to below effective levels for flat-tappets. If let your oil maintenance go, it's bad on these antique motors.

I used and have used both T4 and T5 Rotella, but I always add a couple quarts of Lucas Hot Rod (2200 ppm) to bring the total zddp concentration up to around 1400 ppm which is adequate for 3K mile OCI
 
Last edited:
Full synthetic in an F series is a waste of money.

Dino or para synthetic and OCI every 3k or twice a year.


so are the update and upgrade to Light Emitting Diode Technology to any F series equipped vehicle platform someone said here on MUD ....?

.

1730348650022.png



/
1730348685568.png



,



1730350031014.png
 
Last edited:
Good luck. If you run out of MMO, the guys I know that restore $$$ classic cars just use cheap transmission fluid over a couple days, change the oil, then try and turn over.

And FWIW, that Rotella T4 or T5 10w30 only has about 1000 ppm anti-wear zinc or less. The 15w40 is 1200 ppm, but as I've stated voluminous times in multiple oil threads is 1200 ppm is the MINIMUM concentration for the engines, but the anti-wear additives get CONSUMED as you drive so very quickly, that 1200ppm drops to below effective levels for flat-tappets. If let your oil maintenance go, it's bad on these antique motors.

I used and have used both T4 and T5 Rotella, but I always add a couple quarts of Lucas Hot Rod (2200 ppm) to bring the total zddp concentration up to around 1400 ppm which is adequate for 3K mile OCI
Thank You @Spike Strip for the ppm amount in these oils, i could not seem to find it anywhere. Zinc addative it is, much appreciated!
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom