Which grease to use on driveshaft???

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I know this has been talked over and over, but I can't find an exact conclusion of it. There are also lots of conflicting infos going on in the related topics.
Some use the same in the slip joint and the U-joints, some use different.

My question is: Which _exact_ grease to use in the slip, and which one in the U-joints?

I have now pumped in this into both the U-joints and slip joint, but no sure if this was the correct thing to do:


Thank you in advance!
 
Well, the problem is in the question of "exact" grease to use in these two locations. Toyota has specified, at different times, more than half a dozen different grease specs in different service documents for these two parts. Someone took the time and created a list of exact nomenclatures and numbers that Toyota has spec'd over the years - it's posted on this forum in one of the u-joint greasing threads.

So you may not get an "exact" answer.

I grease the spiders with Mobil 1 bearing grease. I grease the slip yoke with moly grease. I have done both with the Mobil 1 before, and it was fine, but my clunk came back sooner than when I used moly on the slip. That's just my anecdotal experience, but I think you're going to find the majority of people on here seem to think the spider=bearing grease / slip=moly is the correct way to go.
 
Well, the problem is in the question of "exact" grease to use in these two locations. Toyota has specified, at different times, more than half a dozen different grease specs in different service documents for these two parts. Someone took the time and created a list of exact nomenclatures and numbers that Toyota has spec'd over the years - it's posted on this forum in one of the u-joint greasing threads.

So you may not get an "exact" answer.

I grease the spiders with Mobil 1 bearing grease. I grease the slip yoke with moly grease. I have done both with the Mobil 1 before, and it was fine, but my clunk came back sooner than when I used moly on the slip. That's just my anecdotal experience, but I think you're going to find the majority of people on here seem to think the spider=bearing grease / slip=moly is the correct way to go.

Ah thank you very much! Never knew Toyota specified it differently:)
 
KISS :hmm:

I use Mobil 1. It's a #2 chassis grease which states "Wheel Bearings". Wheel bearing grease is a high speed grease. Which is good for wheel bearings, axle bearings & bushings and the spiders (U-joints). It is also fine for the slide yokes of aft & forward propeller shafts.

You can use a #1 or #2 EP (Extreme Pressure or high load grease) in slide yoke. But this gets away from KISS. It would also requires two different grease guns, each loaded with a different greases..
 
I shoot green grease everywhere. Guess my truck will probably explode now.

Definitely going to explode - please let me take this safety hazard off your hands.
 
I shoot green grease everywhere. Guess my truck will probably explode now.

Awesome! Only problem is (that I've forgot to mentioned), that I live in Europe.. So no green grease for me:(
 
KISS :hmm:
... It would also requires two different grease guns, each loaded with a different greases..
I settle for KISOSS (keep it "sort of" simple, stupid) and use two grease guns. The cordless one loaded with moly grease for the slip joints (since they require more grease) and a manual one loaded with bearing grease for the spiders. I haven't managed to confuse the two yet.
 
I have been using Valvoline Durablend Synthetic NGLI 2 grease for the last 6 years in both the spiders and slip joint.

No problems yet...
 
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Factory calls NGLI #1 in axle bearing & bushing. A soap based lithium grease actually. But no shop carries it, and few every lube them when doing a wheel bearing job or any time. It really doesn't matter much whether #1 or #2. They may just gown a bit on cold morning when turning hitting dips/gutters with NGLI #2.

I do keep a hand gun of NGLI # 1 w/moly, for difficult slide yokes. For ones that may have back plate leaking pressure/grease. The #1 flows in easier. Also, some that just don't want to stop clunking. I'll start them on #1 moly, as it flows easier. Stiction not usually an issue with 100 series, but if, moly can help. The moly seems to also get under the double seals and allow for some pressure/grease release. I'll then switch to just regular #2 chassis grease next service (5K miles)
 
Green grease in all 6 zerks, every 3000 miles. Took carr of my clunk problem
 
Thanks for bringing this up. The zerks be callin' my name, but I held back because of all the horror stories.
 
Thanks for bringing this up. The zerks be callin' my name, but I held back because of all the horror stories.
Don't be afraid to keep pushing grease into the slip joints until you see it coming out. FSM calls for that and some times it takes a LOT of pumps!
 
Don't be afraid to keep pushing grease into the slip joints until you see it coming out. FSM calls for that and some times it takes a LOT of pumps!

moly something grease in the slip yokes
red bearing grease in the U Joints

i would not keep pumping grease into the yoke until it came out. i would only put enough in to see the yoke JUST start to move away from one another. THEN remove zerk and yank that shaft back and forth a little. yup. i went there. then take a quick spin around the block, maybe hit a pothole or two. replace zerk.

u joints you can keep pumping till the new grease starts coming through the bearings, wipe off excess.

that lincoln needle tip for the gun IS MAGIC. buy no other brand.
 
To fill per FSM, or not to fill per FSM...
o_O
 

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