Which grease to use on driveshaft???

[MongooseGA]

Fwiw, I pump the shaft until it oozes out.

Then, like every other time this happens in life, I just wipe it clean and I'm good to go. No issues ever with my shafts.

 

[Vermont]

Well played, sir.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Fwiw, I pump the shaft until it oozes out.

Then, like every other time this happens in life, I just wipe it clean and I'm good to go. No issues ever with my shafts.

I've heard occasionally washing it is also conducive to longer service life

 

[Vermont]

I've heard occasionally washing it is also conducive to longer service life

It's like those who say to never wash a coffee pot... it's called seasoning!

 

[2001LC]

FWIW

Here the deal with slide yoke of aft & forward propeller shaft (AKA aft and forward drive shafts) and spiders.

The slid yoke seal, is a double seal, with inner lip pointed inward. What happens is, as grease is pumped in cavity, grease presses on seal tightening it. This creates a great deal of pressure within the cavity. This pressure can warp the backing plate, and then grease will ooze out it (back plate). It is suspected, that this pressure, if not released, can result in damage to transfer case and or differential(s),

1) Toyota has changed the recommendation (seen in 200 series FSM) to: "pump in grease until yoke shaft is seen to just begin to extend". They no longer recommended lubing until grease passes seals on the slid yokes.
2) With some patience and special techniques, we can pump in grease until it passes good seals. But not recommended for the inexperienced!
3) Older high mileage, that have not been regularly lubed, seal(s) may be damaged/worn/cracked. In these grease will pass seals rather easily compared to good seals. Those slide yokes tend to need lubing more often.
4) If while pumping in grease, slid yoke extends more than 1/8" and stays extended. Remove the grease zerk for a moment to relieve excess pressure.

Always pump grease in rear propeller shaft slide yoke with wheels on ground and suspension in neutral position.
Always pump grease in spiders (AKA U-joints) until clean grease is seen flowing out.

 

[l3n0x]

FWIW

Here the deal with slide yoke of aft & forward propeller shaft (AKA aft and forward drive shafts) and spiders.

The slid yoke seal, is a double seal, with inner lip pointed inward. What happens is, as grease is pumped in cavity, grease presses on seal tightening it. This creates a great deal of pressure within the cavity. This pressure can warp the backing plate, and then grease will ooze out it (back plate). It is suspected, that this pressure, if not released, can result in damage to transfer case and or differential(s),

1) Toyota has changed the recommendation (seen in 200 series FSM) to: "pump in grease until yoke shaft is seen to just begin to extend". They no longer recommended lubing until grease passes seals on the slid yokes.
2) With some patience and special techniques, we can pump in grease until it passes good seals. But not recommended for the inexperienced!
3) Older high mileage, that have not been regularly lubed, seal(s) may be damaged/worn/cracked. In these grease will pass seals rather easily compared to good seals. Those slide yokes tend to need lubing more often.
4) If while pumping in grease, slid yoke extends more than 1/8" and stays extended. Remove the grease zerk for a moment to relieve excess pressure.

Always pump grease in rear propeller shaft slide yoke with wheels on ground and suspension in neutral position.
Always pump grease in spiders (AKA U-joints) until clean grease is seen flowing out.

Very good write-up! Thank you!

 

[liveoak]

When my thud returns, I like to pull and separate the driveshaft( use alignment marks), clean the splines well and use generous amounts of moly during reassembly. Even if you fill the entire shaft with grease just to reach the splines there's no guarantee the grease will get to each spline equally or some splines at all. I feel that grease is definitely the cure to the thud, and a regular cleaning is the only way to ensure each spline is greased.
I use moly in the shafts and green in the u-joints

 

[l3n0x]

When my thud returns, I like to pull and separate the driveshaft( use alignment marks), clean the splines well and use generous amounts of moly during reassembly. Even if you fill the entire shaft with grease just to reach the splines there's no guarantee the grease will get to each spline equally or some splines at all. I feel that grease is definitely the cure to the thud, and a regular cleaning is the only way to ensure each spline is greased.
I use moly in the shafts and green in the u-joints

The only problem with this approach is that you have to take off at least half of the prop It’s easy for those with a proper lift though..

 

[juicemode]

Is this the needle tip used to get to all the driveshaft fittings. I have trouble getting to all of them with the fitting that came on my grease gun:

Amazon.com

 

[Goose17]

I have a Lock N Lube and use a needle tip. It works great.

 

[OwnerCS]

Green grease in all 6 zerks, every 3000 miles. Took carr of my clunk problem

Started using this years ago on my Tacoma. No clunks or noise from the drive shaft or u-joints. No clunks on my old LC.

It works with me being submerged under water often.

BEWARE -- If you get this on your clothes, it is hard to wash out.

 

[bentambling]

FWIW

Here the deal with slide yoke of aft & forward propeller shaft (AKA aft and forward drive shafts) and spiders.

The slid yoke seal, is a double seal, with inner lip pointed inward. What happens is, as grease is pumped in cavity, grease presses on seal tightening it. This creates a great deal of pressure within the cavity. This pressure can warp the backing plate, and then grease will ooze out it (back plate). It is suspected, that this pressure, if not released, can result in damage to transfer case and or differential(s),

1) Toyota has changed the recommendation (seen in 200 series FSM) to: "pump in grease until yoke shaft is seen to just begin to extend". They no longer recommended lubing until grease passes seals on the slid yokes.
2) With some patience and special techniques, we can pump in grease until it passes good seals. But not recommended for the inexperienced!
3) Older high mileage, that have not been regularly lubed, seal(s) may be damaged/worn/cracked. In these grease will pass seals rather easily compared to good seals. Those slide yokes tend to need lubing more often.
4) If while pumping in grease, slid yoke extends more than 1/8" and stays extended. Remove the grease zerk for a moment to relieve excess pressure.

Always pump grease in rear propeller shaft slide yoke with wheels on ground and suspension in neutral position.
Always pump grease in spiders (AKA U-joints) until clean grease is seen flowing out.

What does suspension in neutral means?

 

[x8o8drifter]

What does suspension in neutral means?

I assume "if you have AHC."

 

[2001LC]

I assume "if you have AHC."

"Neutral position"

If one has AHC, neutral position is with AHC dial set to "N".
In non AHC, neutral stance. Is just all tires sitting on the ground, with full vehicle weight on them.

If vehicle on a lift, jack stands, jacked up or AHC in "H" (high) so wheel(s) dangling or suspension raised from where it normal sit while driving. So that, rear propeller shaft slide yoke is extended. The slide yoke will except more grease, than when vehicle in neutral position. Before any extension of side yoke seen while lubing. Then, when weight of vehicle, put back on tires. Propeller shaft slide yoke, collapses to where it rides, when in neutral stance. Thus, compressing excessive grease, now, within side yoke cavity. Thus building excessive pressure within side yoke. Thus pressing outward against transfer case and differential.