Which CV Axles? (1 Viewer)

[Trunk Monkey]

I know you're say again you can't swing it, but final pitch for OEM. I look at all the threads here that have been posted about the variety of aftermarket CVs that cause balancing issues, have to be replaced within a very short timeframe, etc. I for one only like to take the front end apart once in a great while and find paying the additional well worth that alone.

 

[saucebox]

Yeah... Unless someone is planning to fork over the extra money that I don't have for the OEM axles at $450+ each, that just ain't gonna happen. Hence why I am trying to determine between the two.

Offroading of the truck will be fairly limited (at least at this point, next years time is gonna be a s***show I have a feeling) so hence why I am looking for a "cheapER" option. I like the idea of the Nitro's but lack of information and them really coming clean on them seems to be more of an indication that they probably use the same vendor/mfg. as Cardone and the others to build their axles. Its also crazy to me that Nitro builds their own OEM style hub flanges for the 100 but charges more than new Toyota OEM?!

Considered just replacing the outers? I'll admit I haven't read the entire thread thoroughly, but if you're willing to rebuild the CVs, you're at probably $250/side for OEM.

 

[gregnash]

Considered just replacing the outers? I'll admit I haven't read the entire thread thoroughly, but if you're willing to rebuild the CVs, you're at probably $250/side for OEM.

Would be putting OE outers on crap inners, would rather not.

 

[2020 Rocks]

Links to those two tools?

a bolt, washers, and the same socket used for the hub nut makes a great make shift puller to get the axle all the way through the flange so that the c-clip can be put on the end.

 

[jLB]

Yeah but I don't have the OE axles or I would be rebuilding myself. PO put cheap Chinesium brand in there.

I know the ad is ~7 years old, but it might be worth a call, for relatively inexpensive OE cores...

Trail spares for 80 & 100 Series. Axles, Birfields, Drive Shafts and CV Axles

We obviously have way to much cr#()*$p at the shop. So here we go, call 303-278-8287 to order some trail spares. These are all used, take-out parts and condition is not guaranteed. Pretty much sold at core prices. These parts, except for driveshafts, were all taken out of service due to wear and...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[gregnash]

Considered just replacing the outers? I'll admit I haven't read the entire thread thoroughly, but if you're willing to rebuild the CVs, you're at probably $250/side for OEM.

Yeah I get what is everyone is saying... And believe me I would rather do that, my fear is that the current garbage ones are already throwing issues. Shop put incorrect c-clips/snap rings on the chinesium axles. That coupled with the vibration I am getting from the drivers side and the amount of play that both sides have I am sure that the splines are shot.

I guess I could pull flanges to see what the flanges look like and if they are "salvageable" for the foreseeable future until I can save up the $1k for new OEM axles.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Cardone HDs don't fit. Could not get the inner to seat at all.

Installer error or you had a bad spline. They do in fact fit.

@gregnash For what it’s worth, I’ve run brand new OEM, Cardone HD, and OEMs that I rebuilt. I would not hesitate to run the Cardone HD again. As someone else noted earlier, a new hub flange on a Cardone HD is a really snug fit, so you may have to take a file to the valley (not the ridge) of the splines on the axle shaft. But you damn sure ain’t going to have any “clunk”!

 

[gregnash]

Installer error or you had a bad spline. They do in fact fit.

@gregnash For what it’s worth, I’ve run brand new OEM, Cardone HD, and OEMs that I rebuilt. I would not hesitate to run the Cardone HD again. As someone else noted earlier, a new hub flange on a Cardone HD is a really snug fit, so you may have to take a file to the valley (not the ridge) of the splines on the axle shaft. But you damn sure ain’t going to have any “clunk”!

Thanks. This is just one more thing that I really want to get freaking off the plate so it is one less worry. This truck has turned into much more of a project for this stuff than was originally let on about which is what kills me because I wanted to pull the plug at the last second when the PO contacted me and said the truck wouldn't start. After that it has been just an ever growing list of stuff.

 

[flintknapper]

Installer error or you had a bad spline. They do in fact fit.

@gregnash For what it’s worth, I’ve run brand new OEM, Cardone HD, and OEMs that I rebuilt. I would not hesitate to run the Cardone HD again. As someone else noted earlier, a new hub flange on a Cardone HD is a really snug fit, so you may have to take a file to the valley (not the ridge) of the splines on the axle shaft. But you damn sure ain’t going to have any “clunk”!

^^^^

You know that was my very first thought....when I found out how tight the combination of new drive flanges and Cardone splines were.

I wasn't really alarmed, knowing I can make them fit if need be. But I will be disappointed if they display a lot of vibration. Hopefully not.

Got to get finished doing the head gasket on my 80 series so I can switch over to doing the front end work in the Wifey's LX.

 

[95Fantasma80]

OEM may be more affordable in long run if the aftermarket fail which are more likely to, but hey you may get lucky as many on this forum have said aftermarket have held up but there also those that sya aftermarket were a bad choice.

You hear more complaints of aftermarket vs OEM, thats got to mean something.

 

[Redbarn]

Just finished replacing a set of Cardones HD shafts ( RHS outer spline failed) with new OEM shafts & OEM hub flanges.
The diff housing end seals don’t leak anymore (I found this to be a feature of the Cardonnes ).
No clunks, no rubbing on splines, with OEM everything so easy to fit & replace.

If you really love tearing your front suspension apart every 10K to 20K miles & just love diff seal leaks,
then aftermarket CVs are for you.

Otherwise fit OEM.

 

[ikarus]

What if you just convert to 2wd for now? You say your offroading will be limited - go rear wheel drive for the summer and give yourself 6 months to save up for OEM CVs before winter hits.

 

[Full_Throttle]

While I cannot speak to the longevity of the Cardones HD, I CAN say that you will need the puller to get them installed. I had to improvise one as everything I had did the "opposite" ...I ended up with a thick piece of steel, drilled and tapped two 8mm holes on opposite sides of the steel, also drilled a hole in the center to bolt it to the axle and then cranked like hell . I have put maybe 500 miles on them and so far it drives fine and no leaks (yet)....only time will tell for me.

I am not afraid to show my horrible, ghetto make-shift fab skills either.... Behold!!! The best I could do at the moment puller (go easy, I was desperate and didn't have access to my shop....I was somewhere else where we had a lift, but no scrap steel. I felt lucky to have found this..)

 

[nissanh]

Wow... this is a simple process. Just install the tire and use the wheel as a pivot point to pull the axle out to install the C-clip. All I used is a piece of wood, 12 mm bolt and a cresent wrench to pry the 12 mm bolt outwards. Don't add too much grease at the inner grease seal area.

For OP: Don't use aftermarket as they fail in a short period of time. I had Advance CV's an that had massive play in all the joint and even on splines at 14K miles. Had a pulsation/vibration at 80 MPH. I went with OEM and the front drive line clunk is 90% gone! (The bushings in the fornt diff are new and OEM)

 

[flintknapper]

While I cannot speak to the longevity of the Cardones HD, I CAN say that you will need the puller to get them installed. I had to improvise one as everything I had did the "opposite" ...I ended up with a thick piece of steel, drilled and tapped two 8mm holes on opposite sides of the steel, also drilled a hole in the center to bolt it to the axle and then cranked like hell . I have put maybe 500 miles on them and so far it drives fine and no leaks (yet)....only time will tell for me.

I am not afraid to show my horrible, ghetto make-shift fab skills either.... Behold!!! The best I could do at the moment puller (go easy, I was desperate and didn't have access to my shop....I was somewhere else where we had a lift, but no scrap steel. I felt lucky to have found this..)

View attachment 2311489

No criticism here. In fact....I applaud your ingenuity and 'can do' spirit. Far too many folks would have given up.

You got it done.

I'm not concerned at all with getting mine to go ON....but getting them OFF (roadside) might prove difficult. In anticipation....I used my die grinder to create a small 'bevel' that will allow me to start a chisel or screwdriver head between the flange and hub.

After working on mine ...they are far from being a 'press fit' but you aren't going to put them on or take them off by hand either. Surely they will loosen up over time.

 

[gregnash]

43430-60040 is correct part number for the axle assemblies correct? I'm gonna start looking around to see what deals I can find. Remember Alita is a 98, don't know if part number changed at some point for model years and there doesn't seem to be an superceding numbers

 

[thebeedeegee]

Don't a lot of the aftermarket CV's have a really good warranty? If you don't have the money now I'd just try the aftermarket, I mean hell, if you get 10k miles before they bust that's almost worth the price difference just to find out if that OEM price is worth it (I have a hard time believing it is myself) You can buy 4 sets of aftermarket CV axles for the price of OEM.

I'd go Cardone HD and see how it goes personally. OEM price is nuts. I have aftermarket axles on my LX and one of them is weeping grease ever so slightly, but a reclamp would probably fix that.

 

[suprarx7nut]

What if you just convert to 2wd for now? You say your offroading will be limited - go rear wheel drive for the summer and give yourself 6 months to save up for OEM CVs before winter hits.

This is my favorite answer here. 2WD conversion is free.

 

[saucebox]

43430-60040 is correct part number for the axle assemblies correct? I'm gonna start looking around to see what deals I can find. Remember Alita is a 98, don't know if part number changed at some point for model years and there doesn't seem to be an superceding numbers

Looks right. Same number for an '03 at least.

 

[abuck99]

Here's the full shopping list for brand new CV Axle R&R. Many of these new replacement nuts & bolts listed aren't mission critical, but new axles & flanges like new hardware. Prices are not current- a few years old.

Pro shipping tip: Call the dealer you plan to buy from and give them specific packing instructions to prevent damage to you new CV. Must be packed "Box in Box". The axles come loose in their own box and the dust shields get bent. Care must be taken to wrap the end of the axle & dust shield in bubble wrap, then the whole box gets wrapped in a layer of bubble wrap and placed in a shipping box- or the shipping box is well layered with packing paper, or better a layer of foam- so the inside box is protected from being thrown, dropped etc; because it will be.

McGeorge used to ship them this way: