Which CV Axles? (1 Viewer)

[gregnash]

Ok so know this has been asked in multiple forms, but honestly I can't afford new OEM CV Axles for my front end work. This is the last component that I need to "correct" the garbage work the PO had done by a "big name" shop.

Anyways, I have been debating between these two...
Nitro Gears Axles (from Just Differentials) for $190/ea., or
Cardone HD for $80/ea. (can be purchased from NAPA Auto also under their MAXDrive brand for about $30 extra.)

Thoughts?

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Of the two I'd go with Nitro, but this on their site is a little concerning "Not Recommended for off-road use. Not recommended for use with oversize tires." If not's not a critical time sensitive swap save for OEM.

 

[2020 Rocks]

For whatever it's worth, I recently put a set of NAPA Cardones on my 98. I've only done a couple of test drives around the block as I am still finishing some things up. The only observation I have initially is that short test drives went fine, no weird noises, etc. The fitment of spline teeth to hub flange was tight, really tight. I lightly filed between the splines to knock some burs down, and then lightly tapped flange onto axle using rubber malet (LFH). I am not entirely sure if the old axles are OEM or not, I have the boot kit for those if they do turn out to be OEM and rebootable and will be kept as spares. GL!

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Cardone HD ones are reportedly built with 6 ball bearings like OEM while all other brand new ones are 3 ball bearing design. I unfortunately do not have proof for this tho.
I bought Cardone HDs from Rock Auto and couldn't make the brand new hub flange to slide over the axles. Others have resorted to tapping on the flange to make it work - I didn't feel like trying that and ended up returning them. I have since then put on OEM axles but there are members here who saw there brand new OEM CVs start leaking grease within a year. YMMV.

 

[gregnash]

@Trunk Monkey For what it's worth, every aftermarket brand has a similar type disclaimer, even the Cardones do.
Seeing as I am replacing just about everything except for the brass bushing and internal bearing of the hub, I figure I will do a little filing of the splines on the axles if necessary. May also just use a bit extra grease and something that is just larger then the diameter of the splines/axle to "tap" the flange on. Will kinda come down to how thing happen when I actually get the axles.

I have emailed back and forth a bit with Nitro and they have assured me that theirs are an OEM design. While I have asked the specific question if they use a 6-ball bearing design or three, their response has been the same... They are an OEM design. Unfortunately, @just differentials hasn't responded but I know they are just the reseller and not directly affiliated with Nitro Gears.

 

[CorporalClegg]

Ive had the highest quailty axles leak grease, usually tightening the clamps fixes the issue. me personally if you dont have oem axles to rebuild i would go with part store reman axles. This ensures the design and deminsions are correct and a better than oem warranty, but may have lower quality boots or bearings

 

[gregnash]

Ive had the highest quailty axles leak grease, usually tightening the clamps fixes the issue. me personally if you dont have oem axles to rebuild i would go with part store reman axles. This ensures the design and deminsions are correct and a better than oem warranty, but may have lower quality boots or bearings

Yeah... the PO I purchased from had a junk shop put in cheapo chinesium axles that are making all kinds of noise. Not sure if the axles are that dead or just their s***ty install, but I am correcting all of it just so I don't have to deal with the ever growing list of s*** he either didn't take care of properly, didn't pay attention to, or just flat out lied about.

 

[abuck99]

Cardone HD ones are reportedly built with 6 ball bearings like OEM while all other brand new ones are 3 ball bearing design. I unfortunately do not have proof for this tho.
I bought Cardone HDs from Rock Auto and couldn't make the brand new hub flange to slide over the axles. Others have resorted to tapping on the flange to make it work - I didn't feel like trying that and ended up returning them. I have since then put on OEM axles but there are members here who saw there brand new OEM CVs start leaking grease within a year. YMMV.

If you're on a strict budget- I 've read the Cardone heavy duty have proven to be the better option; now I preface that with only reading a number of posts here on the 100 forum. If I recall I think RockAuto had the best price.

It's pretty easy to tell the difference between the 3 ball type (Tripod) and the OEM "Rzeppa" Type by the shape of the housing. The trip-pod type will have 3 flat or concave sides, and the OEM- Rezeppa type will be round. I haven't seen a tripod type in a Rzeppa case.

 

[jLB]

Depending on why you need to replace your CV axles... I've got a local shop, that will rebuild an OE CV axle, allegedly using a new Toyota outer CV, and Toyota boot kit, for about the cost of one of the 3rd party CV axles. I doubt these grumpy old guys want to get into an Internet/mail order business, but there may be an equivalent shop in your area.

 

[gregnash]

Depending on why you need to replace your CV axles... I've got a local shop, that will rebuild an OE CV axle, allegedly using a new Toyota outer CV, and Toyota boot kit, for about the cost of one of the 3rd party CV axles. I doubt these grumpy old guys want to get into an Internet/mail order business, but there may be an equivalent shop in your area.

Yeah but I don't have the OE axles or I would be rebuilding myself. PO put cheap Chinesium brand in there.

 

[gregnash]

If you're on a strict budget- I 've read the Cardone heavy duty have proven to be the better option; now I preface that with only reading a number of posts here on the 100 forum. If I recall I think RockAuto had the best price.

It's pretty easy to tell the difference between the 3 ball type (Tripod) and the OEM "Rzeppa" Type by the shape of the housing. The trip-pod type will have 3 flat or concave sides, and the OEM- Rezeppa type will be round. I haven't seen a tripod type in a Rzeppa case.
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Yeah and it seems like lots of the guys in the GX crew like the Cardones as well.
This will eventually include a Trail Tailor diff drop bracket as well, just need to get this and a couple other things taken care of first. So Jason's bracket will likely be later in the year along with the extended sway bar links (he's close enough that I will probably make a trip out to him, owe him a beer or two anyways).

 

[SAH]

I put 10k on reman CV's. Vibrated like hell, caused a clunk that I couldn't fix, and leaked at the boots. Had to swap for OEM. Seems there is no other choice. I didn't realize what I was missing with a smooth drive until I put in the OEM.

 

[flintknapper]

For whatever it's worth, I recently put a set of NAPA Cardones on my 98. I've only done a couple of test drives around the block as I am still finishing some things up. The only observation I have initially is that short test drives went fine, no weird noises, etc. The fitment of spline teeth to hub flange was tight, really tight. I lightly filed between the splines to knock some burs down, and then lightly tapped flange onto axle using rubber malet (LFH). I am not entirely sure if the old axles are OEM or not, I have the boot kit for those if they do turn out to be OEM and rebootable and will be kept as spares. GL!

I haven't installed mine yet...but I have the NAPA/Cardone HD and new OEM flanges. I can tell you the fit it indeed VERY tight.


I have used a pulley installer and two jaw puller to run the new flanges on and off the splines of the CV's about a dozen times each and that did help quite a bit, but they are NOT going to slip on by hand...that's for certain. It might be that my old flanges are a better fit. Won't know that until I get around to installing them.

 

[gregnash]

I haven't installed mine yet...but I have the NAPA/Cardone HD and new OEM flanges. I can tell you the fit it indeed VERY tight.


I have used a pulley installer and two jaw puller to run the new flanges on and off the splines of the CV's about a dozen times each and that did help quite a bit, but they are NOT going to slip on by hand...that's for certain. It might be that my old flanges are a better fit. Won't know that until I get around to installing them.

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Links to those two tools?

 

[gregnash]

And yea... at $450+ for each axle for OEM, that ain't gonna happen. Plus I don't have any salvage years within a few hours drive that have any that are in decent shape to go grab and rebuild.

 

[krice118]

OEM always. Do it right the first time.

 

[flintknapper]

Links to those two tools?

OEMTools 25298 OEM Automotive Tools Pulley Puller and Installer Kits | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - OEM Automotive Tools Pulley Puller and Installer Kits with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Pulley Removal and Installation Tools at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Then just any 2 jaw puller that will fit it. Mine is a Craftsman 5-1/2" (#46901)

Use a large washer and PVC coupler that will fit over the shaft, good to go.

 

[gatormark91]

Cardone HDs don't fit. Could not get the inner to seat at all. Sent back to Rock Auto.

Detroit Axle -- total crap. I've sent some back out of the box, they looked so bad, trying to get one to use. The one that I managed to use is crunching and it's been about a year-and-half. Terrible customer service. They had so many pieces of junk coming and going, I think they still owe me $75.

If you are going to offroad the truck - BUY OEM. They is no other choice anymore, really.

 

[abuck99]

Good info @flintknapper- (I always appreciate your illustrated pictures).

 

[gregnash]

Cardone HDs don't fit. Could not get the inner to seat at all. Sent back to Rock Auto.

Detroit Axle -- total crap. I've sent some back out of the box, they looked so bad, trying to get one to use. The one that I managed to use is crunching and it's been about a year-and-half. Terrible customer service. They had so many pieces of junk coming and going, I think they still owe me $75.

If you are going to offroad the truck - BUY OEM. They is no other choice anymore, really.

Yeah... Unless someone is planning to fork over the extra money that I don't have for the OEM axles at $450+ each, that just ain't gonna happen. Hence why I am trying to determine between the two.

Offroading of the truck will be fairly limited (at least at this point, next years time is gonna be a s***show I have a feeling) so hence why I am looking for a "cheapER" option. I like the idea of the Nitro's but lack of information and them really coming clean on them seems to be more of an indication that they probably use the same vendor/mfg. as Cardone and the others to build their axles. Its also crazy to me that Nitro builds their own OEM style hub flanges for the 100 but charges more than new Toyota OEM?!