Which CV Axles?

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Mine came slightly damaged but not as bad. I wouldn't mess with returning. Bend them out carefully, just make sure they don't scrape on wheel hub casing.

IMG_2525.jpg


IMG_2526.jpg
 
gregnash said:
Well s***....
So is this something that can be easily purchased or do I need to send the axles back? Looks like they did not pack the inside of the boxes properly. Or can these lips easily be bent back into relatively good shape????
First one..
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Second one... definitely worse of two.
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Click to expand...
Damn those are bent pretty bad. I would try bending them back out as best you can. Worst case, buying new seals to replace those may be the least hassle vs sending the units back and waiting for new ones that also may not be packaged correctly.
 
Yeah I was pretty disappointed to open the boxes to find that. One box had the corner busted out but the other seemed fine. Just being loose in the box and they rattle around with everything...

Dumb question, but looking at the diagram on Partsouq I don't see a part number given for that seal. Anyone have the number? Gonna give it a shot bending them out but want to be prepared too.
 
LOL... ok well that was anti-climactic

Used a small pair of linebackers that just fit in the groove to bend the metal lip out. Tried to match the angle and everything as the areas that weren't messed up but the metal is pretty malleable so it didn't take much effort. So this is the result...
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

So yea.... pretty easy to fix after all.
 
gregnash said:
LOL... ok well that was anti-climactic

Used a small pair of linebackers that just fit in the groove to bend the metal lip out. Tried to match the angle and everything as the areas that weren't messed up but the metal is pretty malleable so it didn't take much effort. So this is the result...
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

So yea.... pretty easy to fix after all.
Click to expand...

1592538507389.gif
 
I know this thread has kind of moved beyond this but I just installed the Cardone HD CVs and I know I had seen that the driveflanges seemed to fit a little tight but mine, with new driveflanges, were like a press fit and I had to Violently pound them on. I kind of thought I was going to have to take a triangle file to em for a minute. I had to take one back off which required a 2 jaw puller. They did solve a cyclical hum though! Still would have been far nicer to have new Toyota CVs.

Just figured Id throw that out there for others.

CD837B52-F215-48B3-B658-2B0BEDC89994.jpeg
 
maxamillion2345 said:
I know this thread has kind of moved beyond this but I just installed the Cardone HD CVs and I know I had seen that the driveflanges seemed to fit a little tight but mine, with new driveflanges, were like a press fit and I had to Violently pound them on. I kind of thought I was going to have to take a triangle file to em for a minute. I had to take one back off which required a 2 jaw puller. They did solve a cyclical hum though! Still would have been far nicer to have new Toyota CVs.

Just figured Id throw that out there for others.

View attachment 2347123
Click to expand...


Did you 'trial' fit the flanges to the splines before installing? Mine are also tight with new flanges (haven't put them on the vehicle yet) but I am going to check the fit with the old flanges before installing to see if they are any better.

I ran the flanges on and off of the splines several times (test fitting on the bench) and while they are still tight (can't be slipped on by hand) they are much better.

DF1.jpg


DF3.jpg
 
I did try, sort of... Id read how they had to be tapped on so when they wouldn’t go I figured I’d solve that problem when I got to it.


I needed a press tool like that, I did try to make my own but didn’t have enough stuff here at the house. I did notice that once I pulled the one side it did go back on easier but it was still tight. If I had any intentions of replacing a cv on a trail ever Id just buy toyota shafts.
 
maxamillion2345 said:
I know this thread has kind of moved beyond this but I just installed the Cardone HD CVs and I know I had seen that the driveflanges seemed to fit a little tight but mine, with new driveflanges, were like a press fit and I had to Violently pound them on. I kind of thought I was going to have to take a triangle file to em for a minute. I had to take one back off which required a 2 jaw puller. They did solve a cyclical hum though! Still would have been far nicer to have new Toyota CVs.

Just figured Id throw that out there for others.

View attachment 2347123
Click to expand...
Bright side: If you get a driveline clunk, you know it ain’t the CVs/flanges!
 
I need to test fit mine when I get home tonight. Curious to see how tight the new flanges on new axle assemblies will be. Both are OEM Toyota so probably be like @flintknapper did, but still curious. Will be working on disassembling the tulips this week and putting axles together, nothing on the agenda this weekend so will likely start Saturday after dog park in hopes of getting both sides done that day.
 
If you have OEM flange and OEM axle stub- there should be no resistance to sliding the flange on the axle.
 
abuck99 said:
If you have OEM flange and OEM axle stub- there should be no resistance to sliding the flange on the axle.
Click to expand...
Yeah that is what I am assuming will happen, but curious if it will or not. I don't expect them to simply just slide on without any resistance, but rather easily push on.
 
LOL... got something fun for you guys uploading to YouTube right now!!!
 
katit said:
Hmm. I was expecting tighter fit :(
Click to expand...
I don't really know if I was or not... I was NOT expecting something like the Cardone/Aftermarket with stock hub flanges. Honestly, new hub flanges are rarely needed unless the rig has LOTS of miles on it or they have been damaged, they are hardened steel (I believe) so they should take a beating. I am sure that things will be slightly tighter once everything is greased up and full disclosure, both have been sitting on the garage floor (in boxes) so they are cold.
Once things heat up during driving the metal will expand to close the minute gap.
 
The flanges are a wear item- they are softer than the axle by design- to wear before the splines on the stub. Inexpensive compared to the remainder of parts down the driveline. Replace as lash becomes excessive.
 
abuck99 said:
The flanges are a wear item- they are softer than the axle by design- to wear before the splines on the stub. Inexpensive compared to the remainder of parts down the driveline. Replace as lash becomes excessive.
Click to expand...
Exactly... at like $80/ea. and the fact that will likely last 100k or more, I will likely have to reboot the OEM axles before I have to do these.
 
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