Which CV Axles? (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter gregnash
- Start date
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With a cost of flanges and when you have clunk present it's a waste of money NOT to get new ones. Once they tight - they tight. Once knock develops - you just accelerate wear, the more they clunk the more they wear. I'd like to see them on "tight" fit side to be honest. Reusing old beat up flanges with new axles is just ruining new axles quicker and even if clunk will be minimal it will accelerate much quicker.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #143
Yeah but there are so many people out there that look at the cost of the axles and think that is the majority of the problem.
Much like what I am going through, I have no clue how well anything was taken care of, let alone how well the shop that installed the previous axles, actually did them (I kinda know the answer).
So I am replacing just about EVERYTHING to ensure that I have a clean and good baseline. All with OE stuff to ensure that it lasts another 100k+.
Too many times, POs just take their trucks to "a shop" and have them do work to stop XYZ symptom instead of actually delving in. Much of that at those shop rates becomes cost prohibitive.
Much like what I am going through, I have no clue how well anything was taken care of, let alone how well the shop that installed the previous axles, actually did them (I kinda know the answer).
So I am replacing just about EVERYTHING to ensure that I have a clean and good baseline. All with OE stuff to ensure that it lasts another 100k+.
Too many times, POs just take their trucks to "a shop" and have them do work to stop XYZ symptom instead of actually delving in. Much of that at those shop rates becomes cost prohibitive.
My axle slop is so bad - it really annoys. I afraid it will strip splines if I don't take care of it
I think PO sold it because they just replaced Axles with AM.So, AM axles had bad splines. And flanges even if they were OK prior to job - they are shot now because axles constantly bang on them.
I won't replace everything, definitely will take apart and evaluate first. But basic stuff like hardware, seals, etc - for sure going to be replaced.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #145
Yup pretty much where I am at.My axle slop is so bad - it really annoys. I afraid it will strip splines if I don't take care of it
So, AM axles had bad splines. And flanges even if they were OK prior to job - they are shot now because axles constantly bang on them.
I won't replace everything, definitely will take apart and evaluate first. But basic stuff like hardware, seals, etc - for sure going to be replaced.
PO didn't tell me about vibration at 55mph+ on the highway, we pretty much took city streets most of the time and he eased into speed on the highway (how you can get around vibration). So when I found it on my way home it was already too late. Then the s***ty install job that 4WPs charged him for, not even using the appropriate hardware and have a feeling they didn't even torque everything properly. Yeah it is going to be interesting when I start disassembling this weekend.
Yeah I am sticking with same rotors, studs, cone washers, nuts, needle bearings and brass bushing but everything else for the most part is being replaced. Got all new lock nuts (x2), new lock ring, new seals, new bearings, new diff seal, new hub flanges, new axle end caps, new snap ring set. So pretty much everything else there.
dogdaysindurham
SILVER Star
At lunch I ran across this thread and started to find how the parts look IRL.
Toyota OEM 43403-60010
NKN NN12131H or NN12112H (Made in Japan confirmed), Note 3 Bearing Style.
HDK TO-074 (Made in Japan) 6 Bearing Style.
hdkjapan.com
HDK IN-TO-23 MAde in Japan, But interestingly is the 3 bearing version.
Febest 0111FZJ100 (I believe made in China?)
Cardones 665185HD, I haven't been able to find a photo of their bearing configuration.
Toyota OEM 43403-60010
NKN NN12131H or NN12112H (Made in Japan confirmed), Note 3 Bearing Style.
NKN,LTD.¡ÄDRIVESHAFTS, SPECIAL-PURPOSE VEHICLES, SUSPENSION PARTS, HYDRAULIC PARTS.(Osaka,Japan)
NKN,LTD.¡ÄDRIVESHAFTS FOR AUTOMOBILES, SPECIAL-PURPOSE VEHICLES, AND INDUSTRIAL USE. SUSPENSION PARTS FOR AUTOMOBILE.PARTS FOR INDUSTRIAL MACHINES. PARTS FOR MEDICAL EQUIPMENT. HYDRAULIC PARTS FOR SPECIAL-PURPOSE VEHICLES AND INDUSTRIAL USE.
www.nkn-joints.co.jp
HDK TO-074 (Made in Japan) 6 Bearing Style.
C.V.JOINT｜HDK CO.,LTD. | English
HDK IN-TO-23 MAde in Japan, But interestingly is the 3 bearing version.
Febest 0111FZJ100 (I believe made in China?)
Cardones 665185HD, I haven't been able to find a photo of their bearing configuration.
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dogdaysindurham
SILVER Star
Toyota OEM 43430-60040
NKN NN1211 (Made in Japan) but these use the 3 bearing configuration. I don't believe they are the OEM supplier of this part.
nknjoints.com
HDK DS-TO-13 Made in Japan (emailed to ask if it is using 3 bearing or 6 bearing) and for picture
hdkjapan.com
CARDONE 665185 (with standard neoprene outboard boot) China/Mexico,, Bearing Type
CARDONE 665185HD (with HD Thermopalstic Outboard Boot) China/Mexico, Bearing Type
SURTRACK / TRAKMOTIVE TO8139 China, , Bearing Type
APWI TO8223 China, Bearing Type
GSP NCV69571 China, Bearing Type
Will update once I get a chance to do more research.
Thanks @JunkCrzr89 and @OwnerCS for the country of origins!
NKN NN1211 (Made in Japan) but these use the 3 bearing configuration. I don't believe they are the OEM supplier of this part.
High-Quality, Durable Japan Auto spare parts and Equipments in UAE
We, NKN, have respected the spirit of manufacturing since its foundation in 1958. NKN has built up a strong position as a leading manufacturer in the world offering the best quality Auto Spare Parts.
nknjoints.com
HDK DS-TO-13 Made in Japan (emailed to ask if it is using 3 bearing or 6 bearing) and for picture
C.V.JOINT｜HDK CO.,LTD. | English
CARDONE 665185 (with standard neoprene outboard boot) China/Mexico,, Bearing Type
CARDONE 665185HD (with HD Thermopalstic Outboard Boot) China/Mexico, Bearing Type
SURTRACK / TRAKMOTIVE TO8139 China, , Bearing Type
APWI TO8223 China, Bearing Type
GSP NCV69571 China, Bearing Type
Will update once I get a chance to do more research.
Thanks @JunkCrzr89 and @OwnerCS for the country of origins!
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JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
In descending order: China/Mexico, China/Mexico, China, China, China.
A number of aftermarket CV axles can be traced back to WohnParts in China. They have different grades apparently for different brands.
Every CV-type axle assembly has the ball type on the outer end and the three-bearing type on the inner end. The three-bearing end has the ability to to move in and out, the other does not. It wouldn't last very long without the ability to extend and compress.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
That’s not true. The OEM CVs have 6-ball rzeppa joints inner and outer.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #152
This is correct... Cheap aftermarket have the "tri-pod" style inner axle tulip. This is what was originally on my truck and causing noise and vibration starting about 55mph. Stock OE style have what is called the RZEPPA inner tulip that has a cage and 6 large ball bearings locked in.
man i wish i tore open the boot of the carquest axle I got. I had to return them since the boot clamps were spilling grease. The design of the cv resembles to Cardone HD.
So if I plan to replace both sides of the seals I should buy both of these two as the pics below and the LEFT 47027 means driver side and RIGHT 47013 means passenger side, is my understanding right?This is correct! The seals on each side are different sizes and thus, different part numbers.
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JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Yup
Do we really need to take off the flange/hub for replacing the cv Axle, or only the snap ring taking off is required for this job? What will be the best practice taking off the flange or not?
IF you want to check the drive flange for 'fit' to the new CV Axle or examine it for spline wear it will need to come off. Otherwise you could slip CV out without removing them when you let the steering knuckle down.
I'm having clicking noise that I'm almost certain that is the cv axle. The rig is 2005 lx only 135k miles with no tears or leakage to the boots. Is it likely that only the outboard joint needs replacement or should the entire axle be replaced? Other than noise, what are the best ways to ensure the cv axle is the culprit?
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Check lug nuts torque first. Loose lug nuts can make a similar clicking noise as cv joint.
Typically the outer joint fails and outboard splines are worn while the inner joint and inboard splines are fine.
Clicking/popping noise is the best indicator. Otherwise you have to pull the boot off, clean all the grease out, and inspect the balls, cage, etc. If you’re gonna do that, then just replace...
