When do you replace the Birfields? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 28, 2010
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2
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Location
Blackfoot, Idaho
I serviced the front end of my '93 at about 120,000 miles. At the time I swapped sides with the Birfields. Now at 145,000 the inner axle seal has failed so I am going back in. What do I look for to see if I should replace the birf's while I am in there?
 
When they break, you fix them unless your can't stand the clicking noise in tight turns.
 
As Pin_Head said, when you hear your birfs clicking in turns, it's time to change them.
 
What inner seals did you use? Mine failed shortly after my last service and they were Toyota seals. Turns out that there was a slight wear groove that caused the failure. I went back with the wider and much better seal from Marlin. Its almost 30,000 miles since with no issues.
 
What inner seals did you use? Mine failed shortly after my last service and they were Toyota seals. Turns out that there was a slight wear groove that caused the failure. I went back with the wider and much better seal from Marlin. Its almost 30,000 miles since with no issues.
I used the Marlin seals the first time. I am going with the Toyota seals this time. I will look closely for any wear grooves while I am in there.
 
Agree with using the Toyota seals if your having leaking problems and to run the birfields until they start clicking.
 
Marlins are only a better option when there's other problems like peytonkristen had. Otherwise the Yota's are superior for our full time 4wd.
 
Agree with using the Toyota seals if your having leaking problems and to run the birfields until they start clicking.
Now that I have soup in one birfield it is clicking when I turn. Before the soup it was quiet. With this job being messy and taking some time what is your opinion, should I replace or give it until the next service?
 
Now that I have soup in one birfield it is clicking when I turn. Before the soup it was quiet. With this job being messy and taking some time what is your opinion, should I replace or give it until the next service?
Friday, that's when I replace my birfields. Doesn't seem right to do it on a Thursday being a work day and all and Saturday is when you take the 80 out. So, to answer the original question, you replace your birfields on Friday.

Seriously though x2 on clicking, they're not long for the world after they start
 
Marlins inner axle seals SUCK!!! mine blew after about 7000 miles. went with toyota seals from the dealer and havent had any issues since.
 
Mine has been clicking for 30k, drive it until you have time. I have complete new axles sitting in a box in the shop. just need more time....
 
Now that I have soup in one birfield it is clicking when I turn. Before the soup it was quiet. With this job being messy and taking some time what is your opinion, should I replace or give it until the next service?

If it's clicking then you might as well replace it. Keep the old one for a trail spare. If it is a daily driver I would use an OEM. Longfields are softer and work great for mostly trails, but they don't last as long as a OEM birf will.
 
Now that I have soup in one birfield it is clicking when I turn. Before the soup it was quiet. With this job being messy and taking some time what is your opinion, should I replace or give it until the next service?

you might try pumping some grease in the knuckle thru the pipe plug and see if it helps any... simple and easy to do really...
 
I have a mild Birf soup on my pass. side. Doesn't drip/run down the Birf ball or leak out of the drive flange plate(even there's no gasket/FIPG). Mine were clicking when I bought it about 6 months(5K miles) ago. After I added some moly grease into the Birf via the hex bolt on top the clicking instantly stopped & hasn't clicked since(2,500 mi.). 1 side took a whole tube of moly(though 3/4 tube would've put it @ a more optimum level) & the other side took about 100 pumps(the side that has soup).
 
If it's clicking then you might as well replace it. Keep the old one for a trail spare. If it is a daily driver I would use an OEM. Longfields are softer and work great for mostly trails, but they don't last as long as a OEM birf will.
Thanks for the advice. Are the Nitros the same as the Longfields?
 
yup... chromoly..
 
frozen vc was making mine clickity clack like a train with any turn of the wheel, yanked it over the weekend and its quiet now. That frozen vc was causing some serious stress on my front axle
 
Just FYI, we have been stocking and selling chromoly and standard replacement type Birfields and kits for years with hundreds upon hundreds in use. Not only are they super strong, with a less than .01% failure rate, they also last longer than the competition’s as we realize that 80 series in the US are ALL full time 4wd. This is the same kit we use in our competition type 9.5” custom front axle assemblies, like used on our BJ73 for Ultimate Adventure.
Available for purchase from your favorite landcruiser parts supplier. Slee, Cruiser Outfitters, Redline, ACC Toyota, Safari LTD, Cruiserparts, Valley Hybrids, Baertrax, and just about any vendor on the forum.

Standard Replacement type, great for most people as more often than not people are breaking worn out stock joints, not new ones.
AXTBIRF-FJ80 (replacement type joint only)
Nitro Toyota Land Cruiser 80 Series Replacement type Birfield Joints are designed to last for the long-haul. The 80 Series features a very robust, large CV joint called a Birfield. It's rare that the fail in stock form, but since 80 Series Landcruisers are full time 4wd the Birfields do wear out. In recent years we've seen off-roaders flocking to these 80 series, installing large tires and taking them 4-wheeling only to break a stock birfield joint. Well, more often than not it was because the joint was already worn out and loose, leading to a failure. Not everyone needs Chromoly, these replacement Nitro Joints are a viable option for daily driven vehicles and won't break the bank.
-Lasts longer than Competitor's Chromoly joints
-Far less expensive than OEM
-State of the art machining, heat-treating and polishing processes for uniformity and ultimate strength
-Fits both ABS and Non-ABS vehicles (includes ABS Ring)
-Birfield /CV Joint Only
-Fits Stock Inner Axles
-Replaces OE 43405-60070)
-Sold Each.

Fits:
-1991-1997 Toyota Land Cruiser 80 Series FZJ80 HDJ80 HDJ81 HZJ80
-1991-2007 Toyota Burbuja & Autana (Venezuela built 80 Series Landcruiser)
*1991-1994 Models require the later stronger: TOY43421-60040 "1995-1997 type drive flanges"


AXTBIRF-FJ80KIT

Nitro Toyota Land Cruiser 80 Series Heavy Duty Chromoly Birfield 30/30 Kits are designed to offer a significant increase in strength over the OEM CV joints. This kit is a complete solution to upgrade from your worn OEM CV joints and axles. A great addition if you've fitted larger tires, added accessories and use your Land Cruiser off-road. Specially formulated for strength and to stand up to increased shock loading these joints won't last as long as standard replacement joints, but will outlast the competition's chromoly birfield joints, as Nitro spec's harder bearings and cage for more wear resistance.
Kit includes Birfield Joints and Inner axles for both sides
-High strength Chromoly Material featuring State of the art machining, heat-treating and polishing processes for uniformity and ultimate in strength
-Strength far exceeds OEM, but cost is much less.
-30/BIG24 Splined. Fully compatible with factory or aftermarket carriers and lockers
-Spec'd with harder cage and bearings for more wear resistance than the competition.
-Fits both ABS and Non-ABS vehicles (re-use original ABS ring)
-Dual snapring grooves for drive flange or manual hubs*
-Nitro Limited Lifetime warranty against breakage

Fits:
-1991-1997 Toyota Land Cruiser 80 Series FZJ80 HDJ80 HDJ81 HZJ80
-1991-2007 Toyota Burbuja & Autana (Venezuela built 80 Series Landcruiser)

*1991-1994 Models require the later stronger: TOY43421-60040 1995-1997 type drive flanges
*Will work with manual hubs, but may require trimming end.
 
I put the chromoly ones that slee sells because I wanted something stronger than stock. It was a super heavy rig on 35s that I actually liked to wheel with....Then the truck got rolled and now has no roof and weighs nothing but they are still in there, extra strong!
 
i know it's impossible to answer definitively without being present, but i've got a noise... thought it might be birfields, after reading thread, not sure. it's not a clicking and it's not entirely turning related. noticed a vibe while following the curve of the road. turned down stereo. hearing a gentle tapping sound, increase tempo with speed. seems to be getting worse. keeping the stereo turned off for now.

any suggestions for cause? perhaps birfields tap before they click , and not always only in tight turns?

tia,
david
 

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