I did front because it's easier to get to
Wheeler Offroad "Superbumps" installed. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 04gto
- Start date
-
- Tags
- bump stops lca suspension
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
It's all good brother!Bro it’s like Politics I need someone to second your Co-sign your billthey’re goin in the rear position as of now for me
Perhaps other folks with more experience with this kind of stuff will chime in. I'd love to move my bump stops to the front too if that is better, but so far I haven't seen convincing argument for it.
Then until then I stand by you!
how long have you had them?
I didn't check the rear but with the size of these i think it would be pretty similar front or rear. it would touch way before anything whether front or rear
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Which is why I installed mine in the front position. The rear arm of these LCAs is well-known to crack under stress, so why add more resistance to the rear? That was my thought process anyways. YMMV
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
They’re like $150 cheaper than Timbrens plus a million times better than factory bumps. Does it really matter?
I have my timbrens mounted in the rear spot on the front LCA's. The instructions told me to put them there. I'm guessing it could cause torsional stress in the control arm if mounted on the front position.
IDK- I haven't hooked a camera to underside to see if the LCA deflects more on the end that doesn't have the extended stop, so if we're considering torsional stress- then having just one mounted on the front or rear position might not be a good for that - and maybe then 4 of them would be necessary- 2 on each LCA for a balanced effect.
I have Timbrens Fr + Rr, and love them. Im asking because Ive been contemplating doubling up the fronts...
Might try these to replace the pair of stock fronts that are still in place.
re_guderian
SILVER Star
I think there's a lot of overthinking going on here... Remember what these are (and aren't) and how they compare to the symmetric, stock (crappy) bumpstops...
Well that was just a SWAG. I mounted them per the instructions and haven't given them another thought
Ive had the same thought on doubling up- using the superbump on the second bump stop.
re_guderian
SILVER Star
You guys are running a lot heavier setup than I was (sold my rig last year). Mine was essentially stock, including OEM t-bars. But I could take nasty fire roads at stupid speeds without bottoming out, to the point where it wasn't even safe for other reasons. At some point, though, these are going to become part of your front spring. I see from your sig, you have full skids, sliders, bumper (no winch, or dual batts?). But your t-bars should be doing the lion's share of the suspension work. Are you frequently bottoming out with just one of these per side?
Also, I don't think this is an exact science, these weren't even designed for LC's right?
Yep. Oh yeah..
I do have a 12.5K winch (Comeup 12.5Rs), single 100Ah battery which is maybe 25lbs heavier than stock so effectively 1.5 batteries
.I generally drive offroad/rough terrain at boringly low speed ( simply with the intent to extend the life of my ball joints, steering rack, and inner/outer TRE's). I installed the Timbrens (front end/rear end) more as an experiment to mitigate body roll vs a high speed damper.
I've had them for a few weeks. They are definitely noticeable to me. The arms don't rest on the bumps but they are pretty close. Any moderate dip in the road and I can tell they increase the spring rate giving a stiffer feel overall. This does help cornering but is a little too rough a ride for my taste. I have stock 98 torsion bars, dual batteries, front bumper and winch. With all that weight and just these bumps, I don't think I even need to install the IM torsion bars I have sitting in the garage. For anyone considering beefier TB's I'd say run these first and see if they'll do the job.
