Wheel spacers

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You really can't plan for the perfect fit if your truck is modified. We had 315's with stock wheels and they rubbed the wheel well when flexed. We buy pro comp 17 inch wheels from 4 wheel parts for 90$ each, put washers behind them to flex/steer until you have a little clearance, then replace washers with the correct size spacers. Every modification changes things a little and spacers (although considered weak link) are easy to change.
 
Spacers are great for many purposes, I have used them in many motorsports applications that need more clearance. I always used steel to match the steel disk material expansion better, just in case. Never used anything that large though, but if it works for you, then it works. The main learning for me is don't go cheap on spacers, some could be machined a little off and give you a horrendous wheel wobble.
 
I guess I can see using them more for off-road, but not for highway use. JMHO.

I choose to NOT use them. Ever.
 
If I recall correctly, the distance from wheel center to the trunion centerline is about 60mm.
Adding 1" spacers would increase this by ~40%
That increases required steering effort and reverse input forces on the steering system by ~40%. that could be enough to, say, shear off some studs at the steering arm.
It would also similarly increase torsional loads on the wheels(also not really good), bearings, etc. Aside from having to worry about the fasteners holding the spacer in place, it adds other stuff to worry about just to have a set of nice looking wheels.
 
If I recall correctly, the distance from wheel center to the trunion centerline is about 60mm.
Adding 1" spacers would increase this by ~40%
That increases required steering effort and reverse input forces on the steering system by ~40%. that could be enough to, say, shear off some studs at the steering arm.
It would also similarly increase torsional loads on the wheels(also not really good), bearings, etc. Aside from having to worry about the fasteners holding the spacer in place, it adds other stuff to worry about just to have a set of nice looking wheels.
Engineering and math doesnt work that way and this is more of an argument for the merits or consequences of scrub radius than anything else. Positive scrub radius is often easier to steer on dry pavement since the tires roll forward and backward as you turn the wheel. 0 scrub and they just grind into the asphalt... positive scrub also helps you "find" traction when clawing around in the dirt.

Now, on the other hand, positive scrub can create way worse situations when youre pointed downhill at an immovable obstacle. The tire attempting to climb will be forced by the weight of the rig... and when you have a positive scrub radius a lot of that force is dumped right into the steering linkage.

Modern fwd cars typically have negative scrub radius for stability under similar circumstances.
 
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Your absolutely correct. Oversized wheels and tires put additional stress on all steering, bearings and even brakes. Toyota engineers designed the truck to have one tire size. I always recommend stock tires and wheels.
This is what I imagine when I think of Toyota crew. If you had some dirty canine near you and were giving a westside with your hand it would be complete
 
Engineering and math doesnt work that way and this is more of an argument for the merits or consequences of scrub radius than anything else. Positive scrub radius is often easier to steer on dry pavement since the tires roll forward and backward as you turn the wheel. 0 scrub and they just grind into the asphalt... positive scrub also helps you "find" traction when clawing around in the dirt.

Now, on the other hand, positive scrub can create way worse situations when youre pointed downhill at an immovable obstacle. The tire attempting to climb will be forced by the weight of the rig... and when you have a positive scrub radius a lot of that force is dumped right into the steering linkage.

Modern fwd cars typically have negative scrub radius for stability under similar circumstances.
realistically, how much worse would it be though with a set of 35s and 1.25" spacers? It'll be something of course but is it enough to worry about? the best spacers I can find are made locally from forged alloy, I'd be more inclined to buy them over the cheaper ebay jobby available.
 
Engineering and math doesnt work that way and this is more of an argument for the merits or consequences of scrub radius than anything else. Positive scrub radius is often easier to steer on dry pavement since the tires roll forward and backward as you turn the wheel. 0 scrub and they just grind into the asphalt... positive scrub also helps you "find" traction when clawing around in the dirt.

Now, on the other hand, positive scrub can create way worse situations when youre pointed downhill at an immovable obstacle. The tire attempting to climb will be forced by the weight of the rig... and when you have a positive scrub radius a lot of that force is dumped right into the steering linkage.

Modern fwd cars typically have negative scrub radius for stability under similar circumstances.
Ok. i'll just put my Mechanical Engineering degree back in the moving boxes and quit my job and go work at Jiffy Lube.

I mean, its a reasonable, quick and dirty assumption that increasing the lever arm of the steering system would result in a similar load increase.
 
Ok. i'll just put my Mechanical Engineering degree back in the moving boxes and quit my job and go work at Jiffy Lube.

I mean, its a reasonable, quick and dirty assumption that increasing the lever arm of the steering system would result in a similar load increase.
Fair. just not under all circumstances
 
This is what I imagine when I think of Toyota crew. If you had some dirty canine near you and were giving a westside with your hand it would be complete
Yeah, that photo is my grandson Shane ( we bought and started building the truck when he was 15 as an exercise in imagination, fabrication and mechanics). He is in coast guard basic training right now and I guess I'll be wheeling alone with the dirty dogs this summer.. I can't bend my fingers for the "Westside" so I just wave like I'm looking through the senior home window.
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Soupbowl
 
Yeah, that photo is my grandson Shane ( we bought and started building the truck when he was 15 as an exercise in imagination, fabrication and mechanics). He is in coast guard basic training right now and I guess I'll be wheeling alone with the dirty dogs this summer.. I can't bend my fingers for the "Westside" so I just wave like I'm looking through the senior home window.View attachment 1364891
Soupbowl
Lol, excellent. How do you like the pro comps?
 
I ran wheels that had 3" backspacing along with 2" spacers. Wheeled all over the place. The extra width was great in Pritchett canyon. Drove semi daily on the street. I did find the extra scrub got the ps fluid really hot off road, a ps cooler fixed that though. I used spacers cuz I wanted more width . if your just using them for clearance issues it'll be fine.
 
Lol, excellent. How do you like the pro comps?
The pro comps work perfect on hwy (balanced by a bag of beads) and get great traction off road (14 lbs air). I hear haters bad mouth them but so far no problems. I paid $50 a piece for the 4 wheel parts unlimited warranty, but have not used it yet. The 38" bias ply tires we had before, would not balance no mater what we tried.
 
Ok. i'll just put my Mechanical Engineering degree back in the moving boxes and quit my job and go work at Jiffy Lube.

I mean, its a reasonable, quick and dirty assumption that increasing the lever arm of the steering system would result in a similar load increase.

Mostly, but the tires roll, so? Agree that changing rim backspace and/or spacers changes loads. The same could be said for larger tires, any weight added over stock, stiffer springs, shocks, and lots of things that are done to these rigs. The question is when does it become significant? In my experience, the '80 is overbuilt, lifted, big tire, wheeled rigs need slightly more maintenance, but not a big deal.
 
The pro comps work perfect on hwy (balanced by a bag of beads) and get great traction off road (14 lbs air). I hear haters bad mouth them but so far no problems. I paid $50 a piece for the 4 wheel parts unlimited warranty, but have not used it yet. The 38" bias ply tires we had before, would not balance no mater what we tried.
Nice. 37s? I just bought some pitbull rocker radials during the trump day deal but not sure how much sheet metal will be going away
 
I have a problem with this whole Hub Centric/Lug Centric deal. I was told that these Hub Centric 2" spacers would work on my 97. They clearly do not work...... So these straight axel 80's must be Lug Centric? Please advise.
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