Adding some wheel spacers, and searched and it seems some have used hubcentric, but the vast majority - at least by brand used, are non-hubcentric.
What's the issue pro-con?
What's the issue pro-con?
Wheel Spacers - Hubcentric or not (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Walking Eagle
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It's not a question of pros and cons but a question of which is the right one for the vehicle. As far as I remember Toyota trucks are lug-centric. So you can feel free to use spacers of a different inner diameter.
I just plopped the Spidertrax wheel spacers on my '97 LX450 - Lug Centric Lug Centric (Early Model)
My 15" rims with 35's from my '91 wouldn't fit so the spacers were less expensive than buying new rims and tires. We'll see how they handle on the trail - I'm wide as hell now.
My 15" rims with 35's from my '91 wouldn't fit so the spacers were less expensive than buying new rims and tires. We'll see how they handle on the trail - I'm wide as hell now.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Hub Centric would be ideal, but you can not do them on a 80 due to the size of the hubs. Unless you make the spacer wider than the hub, you can not machine a lip on them to make them hub centric. The 80 is a different in the 93/94 are lug centric lug nuts, but still seat on the hub. 95-97 has hub centric style lugnuts.
- Thread starter
- #5
I think I'm finally getting my head around this whole hub centric / lug centric deal with a little off mud web searching.
Hub centric wheels use the hub to make the wheel centered (co-axial) to the hub bearings.
Lug Centric Wheels use the lugs and conical nuts to center the wheel to the lug pattern which is centered on the hub. Since nothing is ever perfect, you have two stack-ups rather than one.
If I use the stock hub centric rims from my '97, on a non-hub centric spacer - the wheels will likely be off center - it'll go up and down relative to the hub - not enough to likely see visually, but to feel running down the hwy.
If I use lug centric spacers, with conical nuts attaching the spacer, and then conical nuts attaching a lug-centric rim, I'm ok. But I have to have some lug centric rims like from a '93/94 or aftermarket steel rims.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Sounds about right. You can minimize the issues with fitting hubcentric wheels onto the lugcentric spacers by first centering the wheels using 3 conical lug nuts (try to get ones that are larger than the 19mm ones. Once you have the wheel centered, install 3 hub centric nuts and then take the 3 used to center it off and replace with hub centric ones. Works 99% ok.
- Thread starter
- #7
After loosing a wheel at 50mph due to my own mistake rushing swapping tires, I'm not sure I want 99% ok.
the second part of what you were saying before with the 80 is that be cause the hub (purple) protrudes through the whole wheel spacer, you can't have the little necked down portion of the spacer (grey) that makes it work on other hub centric vehicles. Would also explain why Spidertrax doesn't list the 80 series for spacers - won't work hubcentric, and too complecated to list for 2 years of production. No one ever seems to show the back side of the spacers, so you'll have to let me know if I'm interpreting what you're saying correctly.
That also leads me to believe that the hub isn't supporting the weight as some people seem to be afraid of when going to lug-centric wheels, cause if it was on these no 80 series vehicles, it doesn't seem reasonable that they would us that .25" centering protrusion for supporting the whole vehicle.
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Correct, the hub-centric has nothing to do with supporting the wheels, that job is handled by the clamping force of the lugs. It's function is centering the wheel as it's mounted. The centering protrusion is relatively short, after that the hub is slightly smaller in OD, so care needs to be taken when installing wheels with spacers to get them correctly centered.
The size difference between the centering protrusion and hub body is small, so no way to add a centering protrusion to the spacer, it would be very thin. The only way to do it would be with rims with a larger center hole.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Correct, if you look at the hub, you will see that close to the mounting surface it steps up maybe 1/64". This is how thin the flange (like the gray one in the drawing that sticks out) would have to be on the hub centric spacer to work.
As for 99%, you get a little bit of vibration like a wheel that is out of balance when they are not centered (lug centric). That said, I have driven thousands of miles with lugcentric spacers that we installed like I mentioned with no issues.
As for 99%, you get a little bit of vibration like a wheel that is out of balance when they are not centered (lug centric). That said, I have driven thousands of miles with lugcentric spacers that we installed like I mentioned with no issues.
- Thread starter
- #10
Well, I have some lug-centric showing up today - trail gear - that I got for about 1/2 price on e-bay, so I may try it. At least I feel like I have a handle on it now. Some of the other threads talking about if hub-centric studs were strong enough to be used on lug centric had me really confused.
Thanks for the help guys - appreciate it.
You can be really calm about the whole hub/nut centric thing. I use the OEM LX450 wheels and lug centric spacers. They can be used on a hub centric vehicle because they have conical nuts. So the spacer can be way bigger in diameter than the hub and it will always be centered by the nuts. I haven't seen a spacer with flat nuts and flat holes. They all have conical nuts and tapered holes.
Have a look at this photo:
Below you can see that the holes are tapered. The nuts are also conical.
No matter the hub size, the lugs will always get it centered. I also think (sorry Christo) that the late model shank (flat) nuts also center the rim. They are a really tight fit into the holes. When a 95-97 rim is put onto the hub it sits on the hub and is off center, but when the first nut, on 12 o'clock position is turned and the slight taper on the nut begins to touch the rim, then the whole wheel lifts a little bit. This feels like centering. Then when the 6 o'clock nut is inserted, a slight correction is made and the wheel is stiffened even further. So I really dare to assume that even the shank nuts have a centering function. I've installed spacers in a total of 3 95-97 crusiers and none of them has vibrations or any spacer-related problems.
Have a look at this photo:
Below you can see that the holes are tapered. The nuts are also conical.
No matter the hub size, the lugs will always get it centered. I also think (sorry Christo) that the late model shank (flat) nuts also center the rim. They are a really tight fit into the holes. When a 95-97 rim is put onto the hub it sits on the hub and is off center, but when the first nut, on 12 o'clock position is turned and the slight taper on the nut begins to touch the rim, then the whole wheel lifts a little bit. This feels like centering. Then when the 6 o'clock nut is inserted, a slight correction is made and the wheel is stiffened even further. So I really dare to assume that even the shank nuts have a centering function. I've installed spacers in a total of 3 95-97 crusiers and none of them has vibrations or any spacer-related problems.
just remember that you SHOULD torque the lugs on the spacers and then torque the lugs on the wheel, after 500 miles remove the wheels and torque the spacers again, re-install the wheels and torque the lugs, drive another 500 miles and re-torque the wheel lugs again..
not as bad as it sounds but needed..
later
not as bad as it sounds but needed..
later
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
It is not the alignment of the spacer to hub, it is the alignment of wheel to spacer that is the issue. The spacer will sit (if properly made) on the hub centric part of the hub. It is centering the wheel onto the spacer when using hub centric wheels that is the issue.
The hub centric wheel lugnuts does not center the wheel. The clamping is provided between the flat washer and the flat surface on the wheel. The shank does not fit tight enough to center the wheel.
You can be really calm about the whole hub/nut centric thing. I use the OEM LX450 wheels and lug centric spacers. They can be used on a hub centric vehicle because they have conical nuts. So the spacer can be way bigger in diameter than the hub and it will always be centered by the nuts. I haven't seen a spacer with flat nuts and flat holes. They all have conical nuts and tapered holes.
Have a look at this photo:
Below you can see that the holes are tapered. The nuts are also conical.
No matter the hub size, the lugs will always get it centered. I also think (sorry Christo) that the late model shank (flat) nuts also center the rim. They are a really tight fit into the holes. When a 95-97 rim is put onto the hub it sits on the hub and is off center, but when the first nut, on 12 o'clock position is turned and the slight taper on the nut begins to touch the rim, then the whole wheel lifts a little bit. This feels like centering. Then when the 6 o'clock nut is inserted, a slight correction is made and the wheel is stiffened even further. So I really dare to assume that even the shank nuts have a centering function. I've installed spacers in a total of 3 95-97 crusiers and none of them has vibrations or any spacer-related problems.
Which spacers are these? ( Who makes them ) And what is the width?
I have 1.5 inch spacers, was told they could not get any narrower, yours look like they are only about 1.00 inch.
These are 1.5" spacers. I wanted to order 1" for a friend but was told that they can't be any narower, probably due to the length of the OEM studs.
I bought them on ebay from a guy called 'rigged.up'. That's a company which makes spacers for all types of vehicles. I bought a total of 5 sets for myself and friends. Not a single problem or complaint and they have really seen abuse. No problems with wheel to spacer centering either on 95-97 cruisers (don't know why). A set (4 pieces with nuts included) costs around $100-something, probably $120. Oh if you plan to buy from them, tell them that you heard from me (Mike from Poland). Maybe next time I will get a good deal as the rest of people in the cruiser club want them.
- Thread starter
- #16
the most important part here is that Slee and I actually agreed on something!
Your pink panty machine is lug-centric, not hub-centeric.
- Thread starter
- #18
what makes you say that, everything else says it's hub-centric.....
This is all coming out to greek to me so can someone give me info on how/which spacers will work for my 94 if any at all?
"Which spacers are these? ( Who makes them ) And what is the width? I have 1.5 inch spacers, was told they could not get any narrower, yours look like they are only about 1.00 inch."
I use a set of 1.00" spacers on my LX. The OEM studs are a hair too long so you must trim the end off via/ cut-off wheel. I was dreading the task but it went much quicker than anticipated.
Mine had a non-threaded "tip" on the end of each lug. I just spun a nut on, cut the "tip" off, then backed the nut off to clean the threads. 24 studs/ 0 problems. 1" seems to be a better fit on an 80 IMO.
I use a set of 1.00" spacers on my LX. The OEM studs are a hair too long so you must trim the end off via/ cut-off wheel. I was dreading the task but it went much quicker than anticipated.
Mine had a non-threaded "tip" on the end of each lug. I just spun a nut on, cut the "tip" off, then backed the nut off to clean the threads. 24 studs/ 0 problems. 1" seems to be a better fit on an 80 IMO.
