Whats the life expectancy of the 1FZ-FE (1 Viewer)

[gofast]

Hi Guys,

It's been years since I had a gasser and I'm now considering one. If it's getting regular changes, how many k's or miles can you get out these engines.


Any years not prone to the head gasket leak?
Cheers,

john

 

[firetruck41]

IIRC, design life was 300k km (186k mi) x 3 rebuilds=900k km (559k mi) If you do a search on design life and cruiserdan, you will probably find the stat.

EDIT: changed to reflect KM, not MI (thank you beno).

 

[OGBeno]

Actually, 300k kms x3.

 

[landtank]

infinity

 

[firetruck41]

Actually, 300k kms x3.

I always forget that part!

 

[firetruck41]

IIRC, design life was 300k km (186k mi) x 3 rebuilds=900k km (559k mi) If you do a search on design life and cruiserdan, you will probably find the stat.

EDIT: changed to reflect KM, not MI (thank you beno).

I think we could expect to get 75% more out of our 1FZ-FE, in real use, since (anecdotaly) people seem to be going 250k-300k before needing engine rebuild.

 

[OGBeno]

I think we could expect to get 75% more out of our 1FZ-FE, in real use, since (anecdotaly) people seem to be going 250k-300k before needing engine rebuild.

I'd agree.



(300K KMs would be 186411 miles) Most of us have passed this milestone with no real issues on the bottom end where it counts.

I'm at 217K miles with no real issues. Some slight power loss, a small bit of oil consumption, but I still take it out and beat the crap out of it and come home safe and sound.

As most of us do.....

 

[oro-o]

As a follow on to that, how much should one budget for a competent rebuild buy a good local shop? I am looking at buying a higher-mileage 80 and that could be useful in the pricing equation.

 

[bugsnbikes]

I just heard from Robbie Antonson who broke it down to:

$1200-1400 machine work/head included
$3000 for oem toyota parts
$2600 for labor

that didnt include incidentals---while you are in there stuff that could be changed out- depending how "brand new" you wanted everything like: fan clutch/radiator/fuel filters/starter/water pump etc. imho its probably smartest to have the entire cooling system as near new as possible..........so if the rig you are looking at has had the radiator or fan clutch done in the last 50k........you are probably good to go on those costs.

 

[Buckru]

I just heard from Robbie Antonson who broke it down to:

$1200-1400 machine work/head included
$3000 for oem toyota parts
$2600 for labor

that didnt include incidentals---while you are in there stuff that could be changed out- depending how "brand new" you wanted everything like: fan clutch/radiator/fuel filters/starter/water pump etc. imho its probably smartest to have the entire cooling system as near new as possible..........so if the rig you are looking at has had the radiator or fan clutch done in the last 50k........you are probably good to go on those costs.

You could pony up for a second 80 at those figures.

Mr. T's numbers seem to reflect harsh environments for their rebuild intervals. Driving to the office, grabbin groceries, shuttling the kiddos and occassional wheeling doesn't seem to put much stress on the old girl. I'm at 227 and don't burn a drop of oil in 10k change intervals.

Good luck,

Buck

 

[gofast]

Thanks guys, About the lowest figures I can find in terms of miles are the lx450's

Thinking about going there and moving out of the 70's so this really helps.

Cheers,

john

 

[nodaksn3]

I have 240,xxx on mine. It uses about 1 quart every 2500 miles, but otherwise (knock on wood) runs fine. Original water pump, and everything else, except the PHH, HG and hoses, belts. When I flushed the radiator last summer, it was unbelievably clean. I've never even recharged the a/c, and it literally gets too cold for me! So, what's the expected life? Guess it depends on a lot of things, but I suppose on: (1) How hard it's used, and (2) How well it's maintained. For mine it's (1) easy, and (2) very well. Amazing trucks.
Ned

 

[95Fantasma80]

I read somewhere that the Engine was built to last 500K miles.

When I use to browse old threads for days, I heard that over and over.

 

[OGBeno]

I read somewhere that the Engine was built to last 500K miles.

When I use to browse old threads for days, I heard that over and over.

Official Toyota spec is 300K KMs x3.

 

[Adam R]

At 250,000 miles, my lowest cylinder compression is 162 lbs and my highest is 170 lbs. Spec is 171.

Absolutely amazing if you ask me for an original engine.

Adam

 

[powderpig]

If taken care of I believe these engines could last well over 300k miles. But most engines I see do not get that great of care. Valve checks are not done on any regular basis, oil changes are missed, coolant is not exchanged very well, oil leaks are not taken care of allowing dirt to collect on the out side of the engine, trapping heat.
it is poor maintiaince that is the killer of any engine or vehicle for that matter.


If you do search, you will find people have gotten rebuilds for less, using aftermarket parts.

I just have not found aftermarket engine parts yet that are of good quality. There are a few companies that are making parts, but most come from china that are landing here in the US. A couple of compaines like Jasper are selling long block engine for around 3500(no intake, fuel injectors, water pump, oil pump, oil pans, valve covers, all this stuff need to be swapped over, so it not taken in cost).
Machine work cost more in some area versus other(some cali machine shop will easily cost 1600 for machine work, and some areas will cost under a 1000). Toyota Parts can be had for reasonable prices, but have seem to gotten more costly over the last year and 1/2.
Labor was at my rate, which is lower than a bunch of shops but was figured for removal, tear down, inspect, rebuild and install.
Not a cheap engine to rebuild, but no Toyota engine is cheap when using OEM parts.
Hope this helps explain some of the costs.

 

[1MtnGoat]

Ours went 307,000 miles. Leaked a bit out of the rear main. I think the daughter let it run a bit low in oil while away at college. It spun two rod bearings. I found a low mileage engine with 43,000 miles on it and made a exchange. The original engine still has the hone marks on the cyl. walls.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

I'm at 302k
Just ran compression test
1, 188#
2, 185#
3, 178#
4, 178#
5, 185#
6, 192#

Well within spec of fsm

I've only had the truck for 3000 miles. Picked her up for a great price, and she is California Bay area rust free / straight body, great paint.

I recently just completed, full cooling system refresh everything new, all heater hoses, every hose in the truck new Toyota Factory or Gates Green stripe (46 in total I think), transmission fluid change, steering atf flush, oil, air filters, egr "blue module", crank, oil pump, dizzy o ring / seals, blue Aisin fan cluch, fan.

Currently, I have her torn down to the head for valve check (all perfectly in spec, I was surprised, I'm used to adjusting the valves on my 98 Tacoma every 30k), injector ship out, intake / throttle body inspection/ clean, egr/evap refresh/test/clean, all vac hoses, spark plug tube seals, fuel filter, egr wire harness upgrade, plugs, plug wires, cap, rotar,

I began tearing her down chasing oil in the throttle body and intake. I'm assuming my spark plug tube seals were so dry and brittle and in reading other mud posts was sucking oil mist through valve cover baffles into my intake, this is only coming through the PCV as far as I can tell.

Am I crazy with great compression numbers and it running so well to not just rip the engine out rebuild or put in a new Factory Short block?

My plan is to run her / monitor/ maintain till she goes. Thoughts on this, I'm new the the 1fz but very familiar with the 3rz

 

[Sc0-]

At 180k mine was burning a quart of oil every 3k miles, my radiator blew and headgasket... After having the head rebuilt, my oil usage went to 0 and that includes a slight rear main seal leak. Am at 297k miles now and am thinking of resealing the oil cooler and replacing the timing chain and guides and to check/replace the oil pump bearing in the block... Think timing chain stretch might be causing the engine to run retarded more than spec and possibly too much slack for the tensioner and guides to remove. If it blows I will definitely look at a GM V8 or a diesel...

I do have a 1fz rebuilt engine for another truck, pistons, bearings, seals/gaskets along with stuff that breaks or is worn can add up wickedly fast to $5k... Not a cheap engine to rebuild or get parts for, with that said the engine is pretty trouble free and is guaranteed to last longer as it's pretty much overbuilt and similar to a diesel design.

 

[cvenom96]

I'm at 303k miles on mine. Never been cracked open. I put about 2500/month on it as my daily back and forth to work and the barn a few times a week. Definitely some power loss and it uses about a quart every couple of months. I'm pretty sure it's just leaking around the power steering pump based on what I can see. I already replaced the oil pump o-ring and crank seal which were the two biggest culprits. Other than that it (knock on wood) just keeps on keepin on.