What would you do to “modernize” a 62? (17 Viewers)

[pipernd]

I bought an ‘89 62 a few months ago and have been in the process of “modernizing” it as it were so it has the look I love but with as many modern conveniences as possible to make it a comfortable daily driver.

So far I’ve added a double din apple play receiver w/ a rear view camera and upgraded speakers and Icon sun visors.

I’m in the midst of an engine and transmission swap putting in an L94 6.2L paired w/ a 6L80 transmission as well as new SpeedHut gauges and a Dakota digital cruise control.

I’m also putting AMP research automatic steps in and planning on either doing the Mosley leather seat covers or, depending on my $$ bleed (that happened quick!), Scheel-Mann front seats w/ leather rear bench.

Aside from an 80 series suspension, what would you all do to further modernized the ride/comfort/utility of this 36 year old??

Edit: the truck was already in great shape. It has new LED lights in and out (except for the gauges), paint is good (for now at least) and it has had sound deadening and new carpet installed (the interior has all new covers too but I have dogs and need/want leather together w/ heated seats, don’t judge)

 

[DrRock]

Given that you have increased the horsepower dramatically, the next focus area should be brakes, followed by steering/suspension and electrical. A vehicle is just a great exercise in systems engineering and when you improve performance in one area, you have to look at other vehicle systems that will be impacted and match performance appropriately.

Brakes:
The stock brakes are actually quite good, bearing in mind their age. They do require some additional care and feeding though, especially the rear drums. I would start with base lining the system and ensuring all factory parts are within wear limits, check for any fluid leaks, check soft and hard lines, adjust the rear drums and emergency brake setup and bleed the system with a high quality DOT 4 fluid.

Steering:
Similar to brakes, ensure that power steering components are not leaking and if not already done, plan on upgrading your steering box to the 80 series box with the 105 shaft, especially if you are running larger than stock tires. If the truck is lifted, plan on installing 2DEG caster shims to help with the steering feel. Some go to 4DEG shims but my lift is only ~2.5” and the 2DEG shims keep the steering light while eliminating the wander. I had my friend do an alignment on a 4 wheel hunter machine as well to confirm I was within factory spec for the toe and to ensure the axles are both perpendicular to the axis of travel. The crab walk down the road is not a good look

Electrical:
Ensure all grounds and corresponding cables are in good shape and replace as required. Electrical fires are no joke ( seen several of these on race cars). Plus, this will help ease strain on the electrical system and get you ahead of any annoying “this light stopped working” scenarios if done properly.

Suspension :
I sprung for a set of Dobinsons shocks from @TRAIL TAILOR and a set of OME springs from @cruiseroutfit. This really made the truck pleasant to drive both on and off road.

These topics should keep you busy for a few hours . Good luck with your build and enjoy the process. Just like driving these trucks, enjoy the journey, not just the destination.

Cheers, James

 

[pipernd]

Given that you have increased the horsepower dramatically, the next focus area should be brakes, followed by steering. A vehicle is just a great exercise in systems engineering and when you improve performance in one area, you have to look at other vehicle systems that will be impacted.

Brakes:
The stock brakes are actually quite good, bearing in mind their age. They do require some additional care and feeding though, especially the rear drums. I would start with base lining the system and ensuring all factory parts are within wear limits, check for any fluid leaks, check soft and hard lines, adjust the rear drums and emergency brake setup and bleed the system with a high quality DOT 4 fluid.

Steering:
Similar to brakes, ensure that power steering components are not leaking and if not already done, plan on upgrading your steering box to the 80 series box with the 105 shaft, especially if you are running larger than stock tires. If the truck is lifted, plan on installing 2DEG caster shims to help with the steering feel. Some go to 4DEG shims but my lift is only ~2.5” and the 2DEG shims keep the steering light while eliminating the wander. I had my friend do an alignment on a 4 wheel hunter machine as well to confirm I was within factory spec as well.

Electrical:
Ensure all grounds and corresponding cables are in good shape and replace as required. Electrical fires are no joke ( seen several of these on race cars). Plus, this will help ease strain on the electrical system and get you ahead of any annoying “this light stopped working” scenarios if done properly.

These topics should keep you busy for a few hours . Good luck with your build and enjoy the process. Just like driving these trucks, enjoy the journey, not just the destination.

Cheers, James

Thanks and great points. Luckily I have a fantastic person (who can feel free to chime in!) doing the heavy lifting for me! I’ve been more than fortunate to have met some great people on this site over the last decade plus (man, I’m getting old!) who’ve introduced me to others! All of the above is being handled less the shims but that’s something I’ll mention.

 

[DrRock]

Thanks and great points. Luckily I have a fantastic person (who can feel free to chime in!) doing the heavy lifting for me! I’ve been more than fortunate to have met some great people on this site over the last decade plus (man, I’m getting old!) who’ve introduced me to others! All of the above is being handled less the shims but that’s something I’ll mention.

Awesome! On the caster shims topic, it’s a bit subjective, I know some prefer a heavier feel on the steering which the 4DEG shims will provide at say a 2” lift. If you’re lifting more than 2” I’d discuss with your suspension tech and see what they say. Regardless, you’ll want steel shims, not aluminum.

Cheers, James

 

[jclark]

Sounds like you’re well on your way. Are you planning to do the full 80 suspension?

A few top of mind mods:

-80 series steering gearbox is a bolt on upgrade. Folks may recommend a 105 sector shaft upgrade, but unless you’re doing serious rock crawling, the 80 series shaft is more than capable of handling larger tires. It is an extremely robust shaft and any YouTube videos that you may watch of that shaft shearing will provide context that it was in an extreme extreme off-road situation. You can save your money with a used box and be good to go.
-Updating the rearview mirror to an 80 series mirror.
-5th Gen 4Runner brake upgrade. Would need to plus up to 17” rims.
-4Runner wiper upgrade and go up a length on the blades for better windshield wiper coverage.
-If you’re keeping the fishbowl look and not using dark tint, you can tint with a clear tint that keeps the classic look, but keeps the UV out. Use the same tent on the windshield and your temperature will be noticeably lower in the summer without compromising visibility.
-Upgrade the wiper fluid nozzles for a better spray pattern.
-Upgrade your battery cables to a marine grade set. @Fourrunner sells a great set. @ToyotaMatt I believe, sells a battery cable kit as well.

EDIT: if you’re looking at suspension, I would commend you to the review by @wngrog of his parabolic leaf springs.

Terrain Tamer Parabolic Leaf Spring Review

So a few weeks ago I was discussing some of the new things happening with @orangefj45 and him launching a US branch of Terrain Tamer. He went on to tell me he was stocked up with Parabolic kits and asked if I would give a lot a chance for my next customer build. I told him I would do him one...

forum.ih8mud.com

They are new to North America, but not new to Land Cruisers. If you’re looking for primarily on road comfort give these a close look. Georg @orangefj45 can give you the details.

Cosmetic:
-Converting the two center vents to open and close.
-Rear sliding windows.
-JDM amber corner lights (see photos).
-70 series amber side markers. They have a boxy shape to them.

 

[pipernd]

For context, this is the classified from which I purchased her. . .

Thread 'Westchester, NY - 1989 FJ62'
SOLD - Westchester, NY - 1989 FJ62 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/westchester-ny-1989-fj62.1332040/

 

[pipernd]

Sounds like you’re well on your way. Are you planning to do the full 80 suspension?

A few top of mind mods:

-80 series steering gearbox is a bolt on upgrade.
-Updating the rearview mirror to an 80 series mirror.
-5th Gen 4Runner brake upgrade. Would need to plus up to 17” rims.
-4Runner wiper upgrade and go up a length on the blades for better windshield wiper coverage.
-If you’re keeping the fishbowl look and not using dark tent, get it tinted with a clear tint that allows you the classic look, but keeps the UV out. Use the same tent on the windshield.
-Upgrade the wiper fluid nozzles for a better spray pattern.
-Upgrade your battery cables to a marine grade set. Fourrunner sells a great

Cosmetic:
-Converting the two center vents to open and close fence is an easy one as well.
-Rear sliding windows.
-JDM amber corner lights (see photos).
-70 series amber side markers. They have a boxy shape to them.

View attachment 3919563

View attachment 3919564

The 80 suspension is likely in my future. I’ve read too many great reviews. I’ll see once I get driving it w/ the current set up.

The wiper upgrade is likely on the short list. I’ve read about that and it seems like an easy conversion and would be nice.

I actually had an appointment for the tint before I began the swap so that’ll happen in July. Doing ceramic coating but haven’t decided how dark yet. I don’t mind going away from the clear fishbowl look but need to figure out exactly how dark (or not) to go.

 

[jclark]

After installing a 60 Series with an 80 Series suspension, I believe the upgrade isn’t worth the cost. Contrary to common assumptions, coil springs don’t provide the smooth, cushy ride many expect. The conversion is a significant investment, but if you’re going that route, you could purchase a new frame from @TRAIL TAILOR who now has available a 60 series frame with 80 series mounts.

If you’re not in a rush and you’re doing thorough research about thoughtful upgrades giving Georg a call and having an in-depth discussion about parabolic springs. It would cost nothing but your time. He might even have someone local to who has the setup on their rig.

 

[Devils Paw 80]

I would do the 80 series axles, with full floating rear and 4 wheel disc brakes, along with its suspension.

 

[BurntToast]

I did most of what you did, and the big brakes are really nice after you punch it with the V8.

Sound deadening is great, but some MLV on top really quiets things down

 

[toy_tek]

BMW seats. Under $500, for me this was by far the best mod for the buck.

 

[pipernd]

BMW seats. Under $500, for me this was by far the best mod for the buck.

Which model/year BMW did you use? I’ve heard these are a good alternative to SM seats.

 

[toy_tek]

Which model/year BMW did you use? I’ve heard these are a good alternative to SM seats.

Post in thread 'CLARK - FJ62 docu-series thread'
Builds - CLARK - FJ62 docu-series thread - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/clark-fj62-docu-series-thread.1276319/post-15643253

 

[Mdej3]

Sounds like you’re well on your way. Are you planning to do the full 80 suspension?

A few top of mind mods:

-80 series steering gearbox is a bolt on upgrade. Folks may recommend a 105 sector shaft upgrade, but unless you’re doing serious rock crawling, the 80 series shaft is more than capable of handling larger tires. It is an extremely robust shaft and any YouTube videos that you may watch of that shaft shearing will provide context that it was in an extreme extreme off-road situation. You can save your money with a used box and be good to go.
-Updating the rearview mirror to an 80 series mirror.
-5th Gen 4Runner brake upgrade. Would need to plus up to 17” rims.
-4Runner wiper upgrade and go up a length on the blades for better windshield wiper coverage.
-If you’re keeping the fishbowl look and not using dark tint, you can tint with a clear tint that keeps the classic look, but keeps the UV out. Use the same tent on the windshield and your temperature will be noticeably lower in the summer without compromising visibility.
-Upgrade the wiper fluid nozzles for a better spray pattern.
-Upgrade your battery cables to a marine grade set. @Fourrunner sells a great set. @ToyotaMatt I believe, sells a battery cable kit as well.

EDIT: if you’re looking at suspension, I would commend you to the review by @wngrog of his parabolic leaf springs.

Terrain Tamer Parabolic Leaf Spring Review

So a few weeks ago I was discussing some of the new things happening with @orangefj45 and him launching a US branch of Terrain Tamer. He went on to tell me he was stocked up with Parabolic kits and asked if I would give a lot a chance for my next customer build. I told him I would do him one...

forum.ih8mud.com

They are new to North America, but not new to Land Cruisers. If you’re looking for primarily on road comfort give these a close look. Georg @orangefj45 can give you the details.

Cosmetic:
-Converting the two center vents to open and close.
-Rear sliding windows.
-JDM amber corner lights (see photos).
-70 series amber side markers. They have a boxy shape to them.

View attachment 3919563

View attachment 3919564

Hey. Love those amber sides.
Got parts numbers by chance? Been looking with no luck.

 

[jclark]

No part numbers. I have an extra set I’ve been holding for a future build.

 

[texote]

After installing a 60 Series with an 80 Series suspension, I believe the upgrade isn’t worth the cost. Contrary to common assumptions, coil springs don’t provide the smooth, cushy ride many expect. The conversion is a significant investment, and you could purchase a new frame from TT who created a 60 series frame with 80 series mounts for around $30,000. I don’t know what current pricing to do the conversion on Your existing frame would be.

If you’re not in a rush and you’re doing thorough research about thoughtful upgrades giving Georg a call and having an in-depth discussion about parabolic springs. It would cost nothing but your time. He might even have someone local to who has the setup on their rig.

I think it makes a huge difference, especially if you’re swapping in an Ls. To each their own

 

[Dynosoar]

Round headlights. Retro is more modern!

 

[BurntToast]

Round headlights. Retro is more modern!

Heresy, 4 eyes for life

 

[White Stripe]

Leaf springs can ride very nice, but you have to get the spring rate correct. Deaver should be able to make you springs that ride how you want them too.

 

[dbbowen]

After installing a 60 Series with an 80 Series suspension, I believe the upgrade isn’t worth the cost. Contrary to common assumptions, coil springs don’t provide the smooth, cushy ride many expect. The conversion is a significant investment, and you could purchase a new frame from TT who created a 60 series frame with 80 series mounts for around $30,000. I don’t know what current pricing to do the conversion on Your existing frame would be.

If you’re not in a rush and you’re doing thorough research about thoughtful upgrades giving Georg a call and having an in-depth discussion about parabolic springs. It would cost nothing but your time. He might even have someone local to who has the setup on their rig.

speak for yourself dude, my coil conversion was the best thing ive ever done to my 60. It rides VERY well. Like drive with one finger at 100mph well. I do not feel small bumps at all anymore, I jump railroad tracks at 45 or so mph on the way to work pretty regularly and while im not getting huge air or anything... i am leaving the ground, and mash speed humps at 50 without breaking a sweat. The way my suspension is set up, the faster i hit bumps, the less bumpy they are. Also, now that i have front and rear sway bars, i can stay right up on cars on cloverleaf on and off ramps with very little body roll. Offroad, i normally remove the front sway bar and both axles flex at least twice as much as they did with the leafs. I have many photos of my 60 where the front is flexed and the tire is completely off the ground because the leaf setup was past the limits of the flex. Now, the limit of my flex is my tire into my fender because i havent extended my bump stops. On leafs i didnt have bump stops at all

This was a regular occurance on leafs.

The @TRAIL TAILOR kit made the project super easy too. The coil swap paired with some well tuned adjustable shocks is money.