Very true. I'd go so far as to just buy a cheapo used laptop/netbook, and an eBay Techstream cable. All for less than $60.
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What Tools and Parts to Carry on the Trail (1 Viewer)
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Very true. I'd go so far as to just buy a cheapo used laptop/netbook, and an eBay Techstream cable. All for less than $60.
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
For OBDII and such. Eh, I don't know guys, I still think that is a nice to have.
While important, when I think must haves, that is what is required to get off the trail should something break. Codes don't tell you exactly the problem, but as you guys know, just the sensor that isn't reading something within parameters. If a CEL illuminates, it means just that, Toyota wants you to drive to them now. Key word drive. If the CEL flashes, that means stop and turn the engine off and don't drive it. Having a code just light up is nice to know what's wrong, but it's not going to compromise the vehicle. Again, I total agree it's nice to know that your air/fuel sensor is off, which doesn't necessarily mean you have a bad sensor, or an emissions system is no longer making California happy, or a brake light stop switch has a fault, but none of those are going to hurt the vehicle.
I've only had the CEL flash on me once. Water crossing that I walked prior and thought I was good, but when went through I found a hole and put water over the roof for a second. Got on shore, reved more to get completely out. CEL flashed and I didn't need a reader to know the I had water sitting on cylinders.
Just my thoughts, and while I carry a very percise torque wrench that cost more than 5 tires. I think a torque wrench is also a nice to have.
While important, when I think must haves, that is what is required to get off the trail should something break. Codes don't tell you exactly the problem, but as you guys know, just the sensor that isn't reading something within parameters. If a CEL illuminates, it means just that, Toyota wants you to drive to them now. Key word drive. If the CEL flashes, that means stop and turn the engine off and don't drive it. Having a code just light up is nice to know what's wrong, but it's not going to compromise the vehicle. Again, I total agree it's nice to know that your air/fuel sensor is off, which doesn't necessarily mean you have a bad sensor, or an emissions system is no longer making California happy, or a brake light stop switch has a fault, but none of those are going to hurt the vehicle.
I've only had the CEL flash on me once. Water crossing that I walked prior and thought I was good, but when went through I found a hole and put water over the roof for a second. Got on shore, reved more to get completely out. CEL flashed and I didn't need a reader to know the I had water sitting on cylinders.
Just my thoughts, and while I carry a very percise torque wrench that cost more than 5 tires. I think a torque wrench is also a nice to have.
- Thread starter
- #23
Its all good. One mans Must have is anothers Nice to have. The list is just a compilation
haven't heard of anyone breaking one on a 200, but I always carried an inner and outer tie rod in my FJ Cruiser.
Just in case this happens, which is very common in the FJC
Just in case this happens, which is very common in the FJC
Might want to consider one of these: inReach Explorer+ | Garmin | Handheld Outdoor GPS
Full function GPS with built-in Topo maps, send and receive text messages via satellite, and has an S.O.S. signal capability for emergencies. It is also much cheaper than a satellite phone.
HTH
I second this. I have carried an inReach for the past three years. On my first extended trip I rented a Sat phone. Yikes. $150 for a month! Switched to the inReach and use the least expensive plan. I use the Earthmate app for all my off reading needs and find it better than most though not a "routing" app you can import GPX fiiles with a desktop/laptop. When I am out alone I'll message our kids to let them know where we are. They get a kick out of finding our location on Google Earth
I'm not mechanically minded or skilled. That's why I upgraded to a Land Cruiser from a Land Rover. If something breaks and immobilizes us I'll need to call in the cavalry.
TexAZ
NEW???? It's BETTER than new!!!
I carry most of the aforementioned tools, and some small lengths/sizes of angle iron, and a 4 ft. breaker bar. in catastrophic failures, metal gets bent, and its nice to have a big @$$ bar or pipe to reshape everything. Depending on the area, a battery powered sawsall for clearing nasty brush and small branches, and trail clearing.
ratchet straps......lots of ratchet straps. I've witnessed and had it happen where the track bar mount busts and crossed ratchet straps can be used to keep everything in line until you can get to a welder.
also an assortment of vice grips.
ratchet straps......lots of ratchet straps. I've witnessed and had it happen where the track bar mount busts and crossed ratchet straps can be used to keep everything in line until you can get to a welder.
also an assortment of vice grips.
This could be its own thread, but have there been any catastrophic failures of the 200 on the trail by anyone here? The early 100s had some issues with the front diff, and I believe there were a couple of people who broke a front axle. I can't recall seeing anyone damage something on the 200 that required a major field repair, but I'm sure it's happened at some point considering it's been around for almost 10 years now.
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
I did see an alignment cam tab shear off the frame. But that isn't something that would require a trail fix.
Anyone tried one of these? Might be helpful for people traveling outside of the US or those with older jerry cans
Amazon.com: Mr. Funnel AF3CB Fuel Filter: Automotive
Amazon.com: Mr. Funnel AF3CB Fuel Filter: Automotive
indycole
GOLD Star
I've been looking for specifications for a bolt / fastener spare kit for the 200 series but haven't found anything. I suspect it'd make sense to carry a variety of M6-M10 bolts but I'm really shooting in the dark. Anyone come across any existing inventory of hardware for the 200?
This thread has a lot of great ideas around tools to carry. To add to that, what recovery gear do you guys carry and recommend? We're going to spend two weeks exploring Colorado, Utah, and Arizona this summer, and I'd like to be reasonably prepared. I won't have a new bumper and winch, so I'm focused on stuff I can mount on my rack and/or throw in the back. Thoughts on the following (or any other things y'all recommend):
- Maxtrax, or recommendations on lesser-priced versions like Maxsa or X-Bull?
- Shovel
- Hi-lift?
- Fuel, water, other fluids
- Tire patch kit
Recovery straps and shackles. I'd like to pick up a Bubba rope, as I have made recoveries more frequent than being recovered and having something that doesn't jerk too much would be nice.
Fluids - 2 quarts of oil and 1 gallon of antifreeze. I have been on the trail and had FJ-40s roll... the oil helped us drive out since most of it dumped out and the antifreeze will help even if you do have water.
Fluids - 2 quarts of oil and 1 gallon of antifreeze. I have been on the trail and had FJ-40s roll... the oil helped us drive out since most of it dumped out and the antifreeze will help even if you do have water.
I like my TRED1100's as a lower-priced alternative to MaxTrax, but all depends on when/where you buy them because they can flip-flop on prices I suspect.
I like a 'transfer shovel' and bought the cheapest one HD had available - HDX 44 in. Wood Handle Transfer Shovel-2531200 - The Home Depot I just toss mine in the back, I haven't gotten around to buying an 'official' rack mount. I like this over a spade style for faster clearing of snow/debris.
Also, I carry a simple carpenter saw from Ace just in case. Haven't needed it, but I don't really want to carry a chainsaw either.
Hi-Lift can come in handy, but this item has as many opinions as anything else you'll find. If you go this route, I'd strongly recommend the base and even Slee's adapter - works well with sliders. Edit - don't want to assume, but for anyone considering this, practice practice practice in a safe environment before you actually need to use this. (I hope I *never* have to use it as a winch)
Fuel, water, yes... Lifestraw and iodine tablets (mentioned earlier) are small/easy inclusions here that give peace of mind. Other fluids? Depends, but I'm sure you're taking proper measures for maintenance and won't be too far from civilization, so may not be necessary. Unless you consider cold sodas in your cool box
Tire patch kit with both plugs as well as valve stem repair parts (some kits are only plugs).
Lastly, I'd recommend a couple of shackles (d-ring or soft) and a 30' tow rope. This way, you might be dependent on another vehicle, but you aren't reliant on them providing the gear. Snatch strap optional.
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gaijin
GOLD Star
Lots of good suggestions so far.
One piece of gear that is not often mentioned that I have found to be extremely helpful in various "situations" is the Bushranger X-Jack sold by ARB: Bushranger X-Jack Complete Kit (72X10)
Here's ARB's brief description:
Particularly well suited to use in sand, mud and snow, and with a lifting capacity of 4400lb, the exhaust operated X-Jack is an invaluable recovery tool, providing up to 31" of vehicle lift. The jack is inflated via a hose that connects to the vehicle's tailpipe. As soon as the vehicle's engine is started, the jack will start to inflate.
When developing this product, the design engineers recognized that conventional jacks were not suited to all types of terrain. In unstable areas of mud, sand and snow, the X-Jack offers a wider footprint to avoid sinking, and uses specially designed, triangular shaped feet to keep the unit firmly grounded. For ease and greater stability, the X-Jack is designed to be safely placed under the side of the body rather than positioned under an axle like a traditional jack.
With a triple layer top and hard core insert for added protection and stability, this jack incorporates a unique two way inflation system. This means that either the exhaust or a portable air compressor can be used, providing added control in determining the rate and extent of lift. Collapsing flat for convenient storage, the X-Jack is ideal for all off road trips.
I use mine with a portable air compressor instead of relying on the exhaust as the primary means of inflation. The working air pressure of this jack is very low - on the order of 5-6psi, but it will lift over 4,000 lb. I think an air compressor is a good thing to carry anyway, and using it for the jack keeps the jack smelling nice and allows a degree of control over pressurization that is easier than starting and stopping the engine for lift.
I've seen too many Hi-Lift jacking situations go horribly wrong to be able to trust them.
Just my US$0.02
HTH
One piece of gear that is not often mentioned that I have found to be extremely helpful in various "situations" is the Bushranger X-Jack sold by ARB: Bushranger X-Jack Complete Kit (72X10)
Here's ARB's brief description:
Particularly well suited to use in sand, mud and snow, and with a lifting capacity of 4400lb, the exhaust operated X-Jack is an invaluable recovery tool, providing up to 31" of vehicle lift. The jack is inflated via a hose that connects to the vehicle's tailpipe. As soon as the vehicle's engine is started, the jack will start to inflate.
When developing this product, the design engineers recognized that conventional jacks were not suited to all types of terrain. In unstable areas of mud, sand and snow, the X-Jack offers a wider footprint to avoid sinking, and uses specially designed, triangular shaped feet to keep the unit firmly grounded. For ease and greater stability, the X-Jack is designed to be safely placed under the side of the body rather than positioned under an axle like a traditional jack.
With a triple layer top and hard core insert for added protection and stability, this jack incorporates a unique two way inflation system. This means that either the exhaust or a portable air compressor can be used, providing added control in determining the rate and extent of lift. Collapsing flat for convenient storage, the X-Jack is ideal for all off road trips.
I use mine with a portable air compressor instead of relying on the exhaust as the primary means of inflation. The working air pressure of this jack is very low - on the order of 5-6psi, but it will lift over 4,000 lb. I think an air compressor is a good thing to carry anyway, and using it for the jack keeps the jack smelling nice and allows a degree of control over pressurization that is easier than starting and stopping the engine for lift.
I've seen too many Hi-Lift jacking situations go horribly wrong to be able to trust them.
Just my US$0.02
HTH
adjustable crescent wrench
tie rod puller.I had a pickle fork until I realized I needed a proper puller. Practicing your most likely repairs on pavement will save you a lot of trouble.
chisels and punches (I use the chisel to indent my hub grease cap enough to easily hammer it off)
multimeter
loctite and anti-seize
file
tie rod puller.I had a pickle fork until I realized I needed a proper puller. Practicing your most likely repairs on pavement will save you a lot of trouble.
chisels and punches (I use the chisel to indent my hub grease cap enough to easily hammer it off)
multimeter
loctite and anti-seize
file
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
I've solo wheeled all but two times in the last 15 years in every type of terrain you can imagine. My recovery gear has been a winch, 10' tree saver, one snatch block and 3 shackles. That's it, never had a problem. No shovels, traction boards, tire repair stuff or anything else.I like my TRED1100's as a lower-priced alternative to MaxTrax, but all depends on when/where you buy them because they can flip-flop on prices I suspect.
I like a 'transfer shovel' and bought the cheapest one HD had available - HDX 44 in. Wood Handle Transfer Shovel-2531200 - The Home Depot I just toss mine in the back, I haven't gotten around to buying an 'official' rack mount. I like this over a spade style for faster clearing of snow/debris.
Also, I carry a simple carpenter saw from Ace just in case. Haven't needed it, but I don't really want to carry a chainsaw either.
Hi-Lift can come in handy, but this item has as many opinions as anything else you'll find. If you go this route, I'd strongly recommend the base and even Slee's adapter - works well with sliders. Edit - don't want to assume, but for anyone considering this, practice practice practice in a safe environment before you actually need to use this. (I hope I *never* have to use it as a winch)
Fuel, water, yes... Lifestraw and iodine tablets (mentioned earlier) are small/easy inclusions here that give peace of mind. Other fluids? Depends, but I'm sure you're taking proper measures for maintenance and won't be too far from civilization, so may not be necessary. Unless you consider cold sodas in your cool box
Tire patch kit with both plugs as well as valve stem repair parts (some kits are only plugs).
Lastly, I'd recommend a couple of shackles (d-ring or soft) and a 30' tow rope. This way, you might be dependent on another vehicle, but you aren't reliant on them providing the gear. Snatch strap optional.
As mentioned earlier, I stopped carrying a hilift jack quite a while ago because I feel it is the most worthless thing ever, but that is my opinion.
Really the best recovery item is education, know how to wheel, and stay calm, you will be amazed where you can safely go. And air your tires down to no more than 20 psi, punctures just stop happening. But that is me, each of us have our own experiences.
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
Yea but getting stuck in Utah is pretty hard, hard packed rock and for sand hills, I've just backed back down.
Even going across the super soft deserts in Iraq with 15 ton vehicles, lowering tire pressure works, so I guess I would add an air compressor.
Not saying my way is right, but I have enjoyed freeing myself while friends were still messing with traction boards and pull pals.
Even going across the super soft deserts in Iraq with 15 ton vehicles, lowering tire pressure works, so I guess I would add an air compressor.
Not saying my way is right, but I have enjoyed freeing myself while friends were still messing with traction boards and pull pals.
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
Let me also add that before I joined the army, when working in shops I also did recovery. The boss had a F550 on 46" bogger tires with a 20,000 PTO winch up front and a 16,000 electric in the back. We charged $500 for extraction. I learned a lot from that, and I definetly see the benefit of a lot of devices out there (not hilifts though) and every time, the terrain wasn't the reasons for getting stuck, it was driver skill.
I would just recommend going to a recovery class or off roading school over spending $800 on 4 maxtracks and a X jack.
I would just recommend going to a recovery class or off roading school over spending $800 on 4 maxtracks and a X jack.
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