What Tools and Parts to Carry on the Trail (1 Viewer)

[Markuson]

I always love it when you post that picture. You sir win, I agree that traction board wouldn't have helped, but the other instance you talked about, yea maybe.

But seriously man, stop wheeling in quicksand! But I totally want you to take me to where you wheel, because it looks awesome

Not that exciting here. Great for dune buggies, Quads and bikes, with all the sand and other brown-colored places...but I crave mountains and forests more. Those are kinda far from here--at least the kind you are free to wheel in. That's why we will eventually end up in Colorado.

 

[indycole]

Not to go off topic but here's what I currently bring with me on all trips not including recovery, camping equipment, first aid, survival, and personal items. I was planning on putting something in my build thread about this but figured here is as good as place as any.

For context, my wife and I often do backcountry trips where we may not see other folks for several days. We don't seek out technical terrain but don't shy away from it either. I have no qualms with turning around and understand that my truck is insanely more capable than I am as a driver. On the recovery front, I'm also not a fan of the hi-lift and have used my recovery tools (shovel, recovery tracks, tow ropes, shackles, snatch blocks, etc.) more often on other people than myself. I carry the equipment to safely do a winch recovery even though I don't have a winch. In my experience, most folks with winches have the device but travel without the equipment to operate it.

So, this probably looks like a ridiculous list, but I manage to carry it all in about 1/3 of one ARB drawer plus one of the side cubby-holes between the drawer and the side of the vehicle.

Electrical

• Fuses (mini, mini low profile, a couple ANL fuses for my dual battery setup)
• Marine Grade Heat Shrink
• Positaps, Posilocks, Positwists
• Marine Grade Heatshrink Connectors
• Copper stranded wire in a few sizes and colors (10 awg, 14 awg, 18 awg, 22 awg)
• Anderson Connectors, Pins, and Crimper
• Multimeter and test leads
• Butane soldering iron (continually impressed with how well this works) and solder
• Oscilloscope (just kidding)

Tape and Adhesives

• Self Vulcanizing Tape
• Double-Sided VHB Tape
• Duct Tape (I like the Gorilla brand)
• Electrical Tape
• Silicone Tape
• Teflon Tape
• Fiber Fix
• 3M 5200
• Red Loctite
• Blue Loctite
• Screw purple Loctite -- it's for suckers
• JB Weld Grey RTV
• JB Weld for Metal
• Black Touch-up paint

Sprays and Lubricants

• Marine Grease
• Carb/Brake Cleaner
• WD-40
• PB Blaster
• Cutting Oil

Sockets and Wrenches

• 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm, 16mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm, 22mm, 24mm, 27mm, 32mm, 39mm
• Basic set of SAE sockets
• 1/2 drive ratchet
• 3/8 drive ratchet
• 1/4 drive ratchet
• Adapters and extensions for sockets
• wrenches up to 19mm (there's no reason I'm omitting the larger ones aside from that I haven't found a use yet and have not purchased)
• 1/4 drive 30-200 in-lb torque wrench
• 1/2 drive 40-250 ft-lb torque wrench
• Ratcheting wrenches in my favorite sizes (10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm, 17mm, 19mm)
• Collection of 3/8 sockets with allen, Torx, square, and screwdriver bits

Large Tools

• Axe (I carry a Max Axe which has an axe, shovel, sledge, broad pick, mattock, pick, rake, hoe)
• Shovel
• Buck Saw
• Hand Saw
• 1-inch diameter galvanized pipe 36" in length

Hand Tools

• Screw Drivers with interchangeable bits
• A big-assed flathead screwdriver
• Pry bar
• Wire Stripper/Crimper
• Nylon Mallet
• Hatchet (doubles as my hammer)
• Snap Ring Pliers
• A few types/sizes of Vise-Grips
• Adjustable crescent wrenches
• A few types of wire cutters (plier-style, cable cutter, tiny electronics lead snipper)
• A few types of pliers, channel locks, needle-nosed, angled, etc.
• Fence repair tool (this does many things)
• Tin Snips (recently added based on Canyonero's recommendation)
• Chisel
• Allen Wrench Assortment + T-Handle Ball-Point Allen Wrenches in a few sizes
• Torx bit set
• Sharpening stone

Power Tools

• Battery-operated drill, Drill Bits, Irwin Bits, Extracting Bit Set, Cutting Oil, center punches
• Rotary Tool (Milwaukee's Dremel knock off) with cutoff disks and grinding wheels

Hardware

• M6 (20, 25, 30 mm), M8 (20, 25, 30 mm), M10x1.25 (25, 40, 60mm), M10x1.5 (25, 40, 60), M12x1.25 (25, 40, 60mm), M12x1.75 (25,40,60mm), M14x1.5 (40, 80mm), washers, lock washers, nuts, all high grade 8.8 or 10.9
• Self tapping screws in various sizes
• Small sheet metal screws that work in metal or plastic
• Large nails (mainly used for campsite purposes)

Safety and Cleanup

• N95 Dust Mask
• Safety Glasses
• Hand Soap
• Car Soap (just a bit)
• Shop Towel Roll
• Water Bandit

Fastening

• Hose Clamps
• Cable Ties (multiple sizes including some crazy ones with 175lb tensile strength)
• Bailing Wire
• Extra Ratchet Straps
• Paracord

Spare Parts

• Serpentine Belt
• Extra Lug Nuts

More Spares (I don't actually carry these but could imagine situations where I may think about it after reading this thread)

• Fuel Line
• Radiator Hoses
• Stuff for CV Axle and Boot Fix
• Inner and Outer Tie Rods plus Tie Rod Puller
• U-Joints
• Spark Plugs and Socket
• Fuel Pump
• Fluids (Motor Oil, Gear Oil, Transmission Fluid, Power Steering Fluid, Brake Fluid, Engine Coolant)

 

[mcgaskins]

I haven't had a need to use them yet, but they seem quite nice particularly for the cost. If I was going on a long expedition style trek, I would consider the more expensive option, but for my needs considering I have lots of other recovery gear including a winch, it's not worth the added expense. To mount them to my rack, I just used the universal eye bolts from Front Runner with orange ratcheting straps. I figured it would be easier to access quickly and mount/dismount, and again I'm not particularly worried about them getting stolen because of the cost. As mentioned above, sometimes the really secure mounts make it not very easy to mount/dismount and the locking solution costs a decent bit more than eyelets and straps. Here's a zoomed in pic of the roof rack:

View attachment 1457368

Not sure why the price keeps dropping, but it's at $96 with free prime shipping right now. I paid $132 back in December which I thought was a good deal, so if you're on the fence I'd jump on them now before the price goes back up. Amazon.com: MAXSA Innovations 20333 Escaper Buddy Orange Traction Mat: Automotive

 

[linuxgod]

Not to go off topic but here's what I currently bring with me on all trips not including recovery, camping equipment, first aid, survival, and personal items.

Totally on topic and absolutely awesome

 

[indycole]

I forgot to mention that I live in a high-rise condo, have limited interior workshop/tool space, and no garage. So, I do all my work in our enclosed parking garage almost exclusively with the tools I keep in the rig. If I use something from my upstairs tool box, I consider how I'd accomplish the task with the tools I have and then supplement my tools in the truck if needed.

 

[Markuson]

I forgot to mention that I live in a high-rise condo, have limited interior workshop/tool space, and no garage. So, I do all my work in our enclosed parking garage almost exclusively with the tools I keep in the rig. If I use something from my upstairs tool box, I consider how I'd accomplish the task with the tools I have and then supplement my tools in the truck if needed.

Nearly everything on your list is also in my drawers, plus a ton of other stuff.

 

[TonyP]

Hey there @Canyonero --

Do you have a resource you would recommend for routing Kokopelli?

Sounds like a fun alternative heading home from Colorado...

Here's the path I'm considering. Also has gpx files and maps and whatnot for all your various routing apps.

Kokopelli 4×4 Trail

 

[Romer]

First post updated.

 

[Ninja Cruiser100]

This is a great thread!

 

[BetoLC]

I almost certainly expect to be solo for some of the trails. Unless someone on this list wants to follow me and my family around for 2 weeks this August. I'm thinking some recovery gear is cheaper than the beer I'd have to ply you guys with though

Yup - this is what happens to me. Sometimes the family schedule means that I only get to wheel alone. I am obsessive about the InReach and having someone track me. We practice recovery by having the biggest idiot get a rig stuck then we figure out how to extract it.

My biggest fear is a small mechanical failure that anybody with half a brain could fix but not me. For this reason I do carry a Montague bike (i had it anyway) which I thought was overkill but is prob lighter than some of the kit mentioned here

 

[BetoLC]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I am going to research each line item (I am not afraid to admit I have to google some of this stuff) and try to cull it down to a possible list for the less mechanically minded which i will post in this thread.

 

[BetoLC]

Has anybody seen or tried these to protect the CV boot? Thanks.

ProSeries CV Savers - SealSavers

CV Savers are an innovative design that are designed to protect your CV joint boot. CV Savers feature quick and easy installation.

sealsavers.com

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Has anybody seen or tried these to protect the CV boot? Thanks.

ProSeries CV Savers - SealSavers

CV Savers are an innovative design that are designed to protect your CV joint boot. CV Savers feature quick and easy installation.

sealsavers.com

In my experience, they have caused more harm than good when placed on lifted trucks.

On a lifted truck, the boot gets tight at the bottom, and stretched on the top. Not a big deal, they can handles hundreds of thousands miles like this. When the bellow (that’s what a boot is technically called) now has to deal with a wrap around it, that can possible get caught between the rings of the bellow, can cause more friction. Which leads to tears.

If the CV was strait on, like in the factory height, yeah, they work great. But when they have to flex as much as a factory boot does when lifted. I don’t think it’s a good idea.

That’s me though. There is one report on here of a CV boot getting hit by a stick and tearing. Would it have saved that boot? Probably. Have I seen boots get torn by those protectors and not doing anything off road? Yep

 

[Markuson]

In my experience, they have caused more harm than good when placed on lifted trucks.

On a lifted truck, the boot gets tight at the bottom, and stretched on the top. Not a big deal, they can handles hundreds of thousands miles like this. When the bellow (that’s what a boot is technically called) now has to deal with a wrap around it, that can possible get caught between the rings of the bellow, can cause more friction. Which leads to tears.

If the CV was strait on, like in the factory height, yeah, they work great. But when they have to flex as much as a factory boot does when lifted. I don’t think it’s a good idea.

That’s me though. There is one report on here of a CV boot getting hit by a stick and tearing. Would it have saved that boot? Probably. Have I seen boots get torn by those protectors and not doing anything off road? Yep

I’m no CV boot expert, but I think I’d leave well enough alone too.

I’m still on my original 2008 CV boots (knock on wood),, and despite scraping just about *everything else* under my truck...my boots are still perfect.

Good enough for me.

 

[BetoLC]

Thanks for the colour on CV ‘boots’ that’s really useful.

I was trawling 200-series threads to look for common failure modes but it is hard to know frequency. I read that one boot-failure thread mentioned!

Icon trailing arms come up twice but obv a tiny percentage for the number installed and the miles driven.

 

[linuxgod]

.There is one report on here of a CV boot getting hit by a stick and tearing. Would it have saved that boot? Probably. Have I seen boots get torn by those protectors and not doing anything off road? Yep

I’d add that even with a boot tear on a trail you can probably make it back to civilization just fine. Yes if you tear the boot you’ll leak out grease and might even end up destroying the CV. So what. A replacement Toyota CV is what $700? If you don’t destroy the CV it’s maybe $350 to have the CV rebooted at the dealer.

I’m more paranoid about breaking a CV on a trail than a boot tear.

 

[BetoLC]

I’d add that even with a boot tear on a trail you can probably make it back to civilization just fine. Yes if you tear the boot you’ll leak out grease and might even end up destroying the CV. So what. A replacement Toyota CV is what $700? If you don’t destroy the CV it’s maybe $350 to have the CV rebooted at the dealer.

I’m more paranoid about breaking a CV on a trail than a boot tear.

Me too - very reluctant user of front locker. A busted CV joint is way beyond my skills.

Here is a question: If you did detonate a CV joint on a trail what do you do? How far can you flat-tow a 200 without damaging the rest of the transmission (I read the stuff about tricking the electronic transfer case into neutral but assume that is a non-starter)

 

[bloc]

The splined ends and seals will most likely be fine, so Pull the shaft out of the CV so it isn’t flopping around causing damage, lock the center diff, and drive on.

 

[Lester did that]

This is a really really great thread. Made me rethink what I have in the back. One thing I might add. A beer. I keep two cans of Coor's 24oz cans in the back. That's 4 normal sized beers. Can be shared or not. Saved for emergencies. But like petrol it goes bad so remember to use and replace every three months!

 

[Markuson]

This is a really really great thread. Made me rethink what I have in the back. One thing I might add. A beer. I keep two cans of Coor's 24oz cans in the back. That's 4 normal sized beers. Can be shared or not. Saved for emergencies. But like petrol it goes bad so remember to use and replace every three months!

For me, my “beer” is chocolate milk,
...and it’s a required part of my “trail safety tool-kit.”