What motor oil type and weight do you use? (3 Viewers)

[Edino]

Quote: I'm guessing the temperature range is moderately different in dubai than in Wisconsin.

These specs are also valid for the northern parts of this region with various climates, extreme hot, to extreme cold. I think the engine oil spec in the US is different, due to fuel economy restrictions. Fuel economy in this part part of the world is not (yet) a big deal.

 

[studawg]

Im of the opinion that 0w-20 is recommended in the US because of CAFE. In SC, I run M1 EP 5w-20. Thinking about going to 5w-30.

 

[Narkhelek]

My personal theory based on my own research and comments from Blackstone and others, is that as long as the oil is wet and clean it is providing good protection. 40 weight oil isn't going to provide any more protection (or engine life) than 20 weight at high temps. However, 10 weight oil (ie 10w-30) will not provide as good starting protection as 0 weight (ie 0w-20) which will have some impact on long term engine life.

The old school thinking of running the heaviest weight oil you can for the given temperature doesn't seem to be validated by the data.

 

[TonyP]

With older (much older) engine designs with larger tolerances a heavy weight is probably encouraged. Much like the required 15W50 in my old 80s German cars. But with modern lower tolerance components, I'm thinking a lower weight is acceptable and/or required. Just speculation.

 

[Edino]

It remains interesting that Toyota for 2 different regions specifies different engine oil specs, for identical engines. I think the thicker xxW-30 may provide better protection in the extreme usage vs -20. 0/vs 10 is only affecting during staring and warm up period.

I suspect Toyota has taken in this region no compromise with the advised engine oil specs. Toyota does a lot of research here; this region is a major market for the 5.7; the LC is immense popular here (like a F150 in the US). There is little to no concern for fuel economy (definitely no restricting laws); what matters here is durability and comfort. The LC's are widely known here that they are indestructible; and are almost solely used for commercial desert driving in the sand, with 7 pac's in the car, and running full RPM's much of the time; they outlast 500kmiles in these conditions. I think these conditions are quiet different of the average usage in the USA. Would xw-20 protect the engine as good as xw-30?

 

[benjrblant]

View attachment 1415759

Mr T's motor oil is produced by Mobil 1.

 

[gaijin]

Mr T's motor oil is produced by Mobil 1.

With Japanese secret ingredients:

 

[benjrblant]

With Japanese secret ingredients:

"Imported" doesn't necessarily mean from Japan. Lots of crude oil is imported to the 'States and processed here.
Not at all saying that either of these are bad- I run exclusively Mobil1 synth oils in my LC and it likes it!

 

[gaijin]

"Imported" doesn't necessarily mean from Japan. Lots of crude oil is imported to the 'States and processed here.
Not at all saying that either of these are bad- I run exclusively Mobil1 synth oils in my LC and it likes it!

Doesn't necessarily mean NOT from Japan, either.

 

[bjowett]

Tolerances on all UR Series engines are essentially the same... including the 2UR-GSE, which specs 5w30 here in the USA. The oil weight needs to be picked for how the vehicle will be used... some are better off with heavier weight.

 

[Slickspawn]

Previously I just saw a Google ad and didn't drill down, but maybe it's perpetually out of stock?
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Toyota-Genuine-Synthetic-SAE-0W-20/816235514

Thanks! I set up an in-stock e-mail alert ... we'll see what happens.

In stock!

 

[cru1s3r]

Thanks Zulufoxtrot! I just bought a case of the 0-20 Toyota synthetic from Wal-Mart. $60.72 for 12 quarts - including shipping! Since my free Toyota maintenance only includes stock filters and a 10k change, I asked them if they'd include a 5k oil change if I provided my own oil & filter. They said yes.

BTW - best price I could find for the TRD PTR43-00081 oil filters was $17/ea. at my dealer. I ordered two since they aren't in stock.

 

[hankinid]

Thanks Zulufoxtrot! I just bought a case of the 0-20 Toyota synthetic from Wal-Mart. $60.72 for 12 quarts - including shipping! Since my free Toyota maintenance only includes stock filters and a 10k change, I asked them if they'd include a 5k oil change if I provided my own oil & filter. They said yes.

BTW - best price I could find for the TRD PTR43-00081 oil filters was $17/ea. at my dealer. I ordered two since they aren't in stock.

I bought a 6-pack of Toyota World version ATF for my 200...found it on Amazon for around $6 a quart. With shipping, total was around $45.

Found M1 75W-140 for s Dodge Cummins horse hauler for $12 a quart on Amazon...bought 6 and with shipping and tax (thanks, Idaho legislature) I was still just over $90. Walmart had their house brand at $16, and local parts stores were between $18 and $20 per quart.

On topic, I'm using 0W20 from late fall to early spring and 5W30 the rest of the time.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Well, I might switch to a 0w-30 or 0w-40 next time around.

My truck only does one thing, and that’s hit the highway, and go wheeling. Also, the motor is constantly operating at a higher RPM and oil pressure because of my 4.88s on 33s.

Engine has 104k on it. Still thinking on this one though...

 

[SWUtah]

My dealer is using kindle 0W 20 synthetic liquid titanium based on user oil analysis is quite affective I guess titanium is ingredient that they’re using more of it to replace Molly in the oil

 

[lgop]

Driven BR-40, 10W-40
High zinc content for supercharged applications.

 

[SWUtah]

Driven BR-40, 10W-40
High zinc content for supercharged applications.

So are you saying high zinc content is beneficial for super charged engines? Seems like most modern oils have high zinc.

 

[linuxgod]

I'm going to run 0W-20 so long as I'm still under warranty. Yes it's unlikely I'll blow an engine before 7 years/100k miles but on the off chance that happened I don't need Toyota arguing that I didn't follow the owners manual and attempting to deny a warranty claim.

Once I hit 100k I might switch to 0W-30. Starting temps around -10F are common a few weeks each winter here and with tighter tolerances on modern engines I believe 0W oil is probably best for most US vehicles, particular those in cold climates. 0W-30 seems better suited to long highway runs while towing, especially once I re-gear, so I'll step it up once my warranty is done

 

[pizdets17]

my LX states 5w20 (this is what the dealer has been putting in) for colder weather and 0w20 for warmer. Considering its not unusual to get below -40c here in Canada, what do you guys think? The manual definitely points to 5w20 for colder temps

 

[gaijin]

my LX states 5w20 (this is what the dealer has been putting in) for colder weather and 0w20 for warmer. Considering its not unusual to get below -40c here in Canada, what do you guys think? The manual definitely points to 5w20 for colder temps

I'd really need to see a pic of that page in your Owner's Manual to accept your premise. Even if 5W-20 were recommended, it certainly wouldn't be for colder weather.

Post a pic?

TIA