What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (35 Viewers)

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Is there a fusible link between the battery positive and the harness, on the passenger fender (LHD... I presume RHD to be wired the same way, just mirrored)... Is the fusible link any good? If it's burned out, you lose electrical power.

Maybe @Coolerman or @bj40green can also provide insight.
thanks a lot for your help. however, i still have no electrical power whatsoever. do you or another member have a picture of the 40 series fusible link? thanks again.
 
thanks a lot for your help. however, i still have no electrical power whatsoever. do you or another member have a picture of the 40 series fusible link? thanks again.

Here you go... its the short piece between the two connectors (@Coolerman sells them, or you can make your own). You can see, it's comprised of a short, large wire, from the battery positive, to the fusible link, to large (white-blue) wire, which pigtails off the large white-blue wire in the passenger side, main harness.

Not all trucks have a fusible link... but, they should... the thought is that, since the link is two sizes smaller than the wire gauge, it will melt first and prevent melting your harness. Doesn't always prevent a melt-down... I found a way to melt mine.

If the fusible link melts or deteriorates enough, you will have no electricity.

image1 (1).webp
 
Are you going to put a cover over it?
Probably should. It doesn't look quit as neat and tidy as I had intended. And, at the least some kind of splash guard would protect it. However the picture doesn't do it justice. It is quite recessed. When seated it is mostly out of view.
 
Here you go... its the short piece between the two connectors (@Coolerman sells them, or you can make your own). You can see, it's comprised of a short, large wire, from the battery positive, to the fusible link, to large (white-blue) wire, which pigtails off the large white-blue wire in the passenger side, main harness.

Not all trucks have a fusible link... but, they should... the thought is that, since the link is two sizes smaller than the wire gauge, it will melt first and prevent melting your harness. Doesn't always prevent a melt-down... I found a way to melt mine.

If the fusible link melts or deteriorates enough, you will have no electricity.

View attachment 1543278
thanks so much for your effort, i have mine, it's fine. i still have absolutely nothing. weird thing is that i have continuity through every plug. and i have power to the fuse box. starter switch is working fine, but even so i still can't get parking lights which should come on even if i have no ignition. i am stumped. and need to get it fixed desperately. but i really appreciate your help, thanks so much.
 
Check grounds. Starting at the big ones. Battery to frame and motor. If you have continuity through to every plug, do you have voltage from + of each plug to frame? What fuse panel do you have? If aftermarket, is there a main panel fuse that could be faulty (popped but look good). Double check the battery is hooked up right and you don't have + voltage directly to the frame somewhere in the system. @Indestructible 47
 
Check grounds. Starting at the big ones. Battery to frame and motor. If you have continuity through to every plug, do you have voltage from + of each plug to frame? What fuse panel do you have? If aftermarket, is there a main panel fuse that could be faulty (popped but look good). Double check the battery is hooked up right and you don't have + voltage directly to the frame somewhere in the system. @Indestructible 47
thanks, its a stock harness. i'll give it i go.
 
Been collecting bits to install the exhaust on to my rolling chassis. I knew I had new down pipe and muffler in storage, but needed to figure out what to do about the middle section. So I went to Toyota to see if it is still NLA--it is. So up in VT I managed to find my heavily rusted one in my junk pile and hauled it out to bring it home. Then when I was up in a barn attic looking for other parts I found this tucked in a corner:
IMG_2714.webp

Score! My pack rat lifestyle is vindicated again. Now I just need to resolve the issue of the cat converter, which I'm certain is NLA. Does anyone know of a good drop-in after market replacement?
 
thanks, its a stock harness. i'll give it i go.

You really should start a thread for this... Title it "Real Time Electric Help Needed!!", or something appropriate... Post up the symptoms and what you've tried... That will get you many more replies/suggestions... Not everyone sees/reads this current thread.

Maybe then, Rudi (@bj40green ) and/or Mark (@Coolerman) will see it and offer suggestions... They are the experts.

As @mdsims said, grounds are critical... Don't assume they are good, pull the bolts and clean the connections thoroughly.

Dumb questions, nothing personal!! I don't know what applies to an HJ, so I'll list whatever comes to mind.

1. Have you checked the fusebox ground to the chassis?
2. "Starter switch is working"... But, does starter have a good ground to the frame?
3. Check battery negative ground to frame, behind passenger wheel.
4. You have a fusible link and it's fine... But, what about the fusible link connection to the harness? Is that a good connection?
5. Have you checked the fuse that runs the parking lights? You may have a blown fuse that's tainting your presumptions... E.g. You think the parking lights should be working, but they have a different problem...
6. Have you checked the 'engine' fuse? Actually, check all your fuses... Don't assume they are good, simply because they "look" good.
7. Have you checked the connections on the back of the gauge cluster... Ammeter? The large white-blue wire runs to ammeter. There is also a ground wire. WARNING: Be sure you disconnect your battery before,pulling the gauge cluster, or you could short everything out.
8. Do you have a battery cutoff switch? Is it on? Is it possibly broken?
9. Have you cleaned your battery terminals/clamps and verified your battery cables are still good?
10. Do you have some sort of oil pressure safety switch? Could it be defective and not allowing momentary current to starter?

That's all I can think of right now.

Start yourself a thread and you'll get a lot of help.

Good luck!!
 
Trying to earn some $$$ that I can more quickly rebuild my FJ40 & get her right-side-up & back on her feet; so to help, I've been making images like this...

msp_MarcStPierre-Copyright2017_BR_17-09202sm.webp

The top wing (bottom one to us) is right at 12-ft above the ground. His vertical stabilizer (in the back of the plane, that extends below the bottom of the image) is perhaps at 10-ft above.

I can be seen as an elongated silhouette reflected in his spinner (yellow nose cone), as I stood to make this image of him flying at 180 mph, inverted & abnormally low, directly at me (per his & my pre-flight briefing). Also seen reflected through the spinner, and continued onto the plane's cowling, he & I were equally sharing the runway's centerline.

The instant the propeller passed directly over my head, by some four to five feet (I'm believing), there was a massive explosion, sensed by only me, that was cased by the harmonics of the highly torqued, close-to-me propeller blade tips surpassing the speed of sound. Further away, such a sonic explosion can not be equally sensed.

Below is a low-rez crop-in of the image above :

msp_MarcStPierre-Copyright2017_BR_17-09203sm.webp


I should probably photo some of your 40's, in trade that you kick my rear-end that I get my own '40 in gear ?!?!

~Skydogger
 

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