What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (26 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
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Wow, Vossie... You made that pretty in no time!!
You do know I'm in Australia, right.Patients youngling! Time it will take to perfect your training. Then again you could use the old Jedi masters trick. Send your harness to @Coolerman. That'll get the job done! !!!! Go ahead.......ask me how I know? !
Would love to have the money not to worry about exchange rates with US$ & shipping could get all kinds of stuff. but sadly I'm but a poor Aussie living hand to mouth funding a project that has gotten away from me, have contemplated selling the children for medical experimentation or to arabs but the missus will not hear about it sigh!Thanks Danny, the intake problem had me stumped for a bit. Took a while to solve that. I knew if they sell that header at that price they had to be a intake to fit it. Even though their add is a little misleading. I didn't get a recent pic. the battery is mounted, dist. is in, plug wires are on, flywheel, and clutch is in. The machine shop that did some of the work on the head, also jacked up and put a standard thread sert in one of the holes on the lower thermostat housing. Found that today so that's gotta come out, after I had acid dipped and clear coated it of course. I'm not putting a standard bolt amongst all these new OEM bolts.
You do know I'm in Australia, right.
That's funny I don't care who you are, lol. You know your onions! This sh!t is expensive!
View attachment 1363802 View attachment 1363800 View attachment 1363799 View attachment 1363797 View attachment 1363795 Picked it up at body shop! The 1 of 5 times it has rained in the last year.. So cold and rain felt like needles at 55! Could not see so pulled into rite aid and got some sunglasses... If you could see the look on people's faces at 55 with no windshield or Windows and me soaking wet hilarious! Love cruiser adventures
That rig is a thing of beauty.
Stripped my 45 from the diff to the housing before replacing the center with one from a 70 and wire wheeling, when the paint drys will start putting the rest of it together.
Anybody know which areas of the knuckle balls I have to grind on the inside to make 70 series cv's fit?
Anybody know which areas of the knuckle balls I have to grind on the inside to make 70 series cv's fit?
Redgrrr
I have a problem with 40s
Top and bottom next to trunion races where it looks ground already is what I did for my RCV's to fit. So the flat part of the birf will slide in. To test slide your shafts in before you go any further in your assembly.
There like $10 but there is a grinder ball attachment for an angle grinder made of a stone like material that make this a breeze.
There like $10 but there is a grinder ball attachment for an angle grinder made of a stone like material that make this a breeze.
Michael B
SILVER Star
In my previous 2 conversions I only ground the bottom section. The 60 and 70 series housings only have the bottom ground down from the factory.
Redgrrr
I have a problem with 40s
Here is a better pic @Taha32
Top and bottom on older housing seems like the norm. Some of the later one don't need it much or at all.
This is a 1974 housing and it took a bit more than a normal birf I'm thinking because of the RCV's
Make sure the third is installed so the splines go into it, I clearanced without it in and when I test fit again they wouldn't go back in.
I tried to take the least amount of material as possible.
Edit: I was also concerned the dish part of the trunnion race area was hitting slightly for the RCV/longfield crowd when i rotated the birf in the housing, so I ground out this area slightly, again as little as possible. Id avoid this if possible for strength.
Stuff a rag in the housing where the axle seal resides is a good idea before you grind.
Top and bottom on older housing seems like the norm. Some of the later one don't need it much or at all.
This is a 1974 housing and it took a bit more than a normal birf I'm thinking because of the RCV's
Make sure the third is installed so the splines go into it, I clearanced without it in and when I test fit again they wouldn't go back in.
I tried to take the least amount of material as possible.
Edit: I was also concerned the dish part of the trunnion race area was hitting slightly for the RCV/longfield crowd when i rotated the birf in the housing, so I ground out this area slightly, again as little as possible. Id avoid this if possible for strength.
Stuff a rag in the housing where the axle seal resides is a good idea before you grind.
Last edited:
1911
chupacabra
Took it camping:
Howzit Vossie.. That looks real good. My H is sort of 3/4 assembled. Will post pic when done on Monday.
Rebuilt a classic
-18 degrees in the garage so not much done but internet surfing for parts.
Nice!! I am rebuilding one now...
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
Doing some testing for @Racer65... new window rubber! Of course removing the old rubbers revealed rust under the rear hatch glass so I'll need to treat that before I install the glass. And cutting it out nearly revealed some fresh blood, I got lucky and the blade just took out a chunk of fingernail (and it was a long ways away but it was a fresh blade). The side glass will be installed soon as shockingly there was no rust under that one. I cut out the old rubber on both windows - I was confident Racer's stuff would fit perfectly and no surprise they do fit perfectly! So supple compared to the old rubber. Now I'll need to get all new rubber for the remaining windows dang it! Another great product by Racer!
Hahahahaha...I have the same garage. Land Cruiser and Pendlay kg bumpers....
