What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (53 Viewers)

[TeCKis300]

Playing with some LED backup bulbs.

 

[Ratchey]

I was dreading it for over a year, but wasn't too bad. Your experience might be different as I have a Tundra front end, AHC delete, and no front sway bar. I worked slowly over a few days to get it done.

I had to do the following:
remove front and engine sections of my skids
remove wheels (2)
remove shocks (2)
remove tie rod ends (2)
undo the front diff mounts (3) and let it hang down as much as possible (cvs and drive shaft still attached)
undo upper engine mount bolts (4) and lift engine up until fan jams up against shroud
Undo rack mounting bolts (3), steering coupler and steering lines (2) from rack.
remove oil filter cap

I was able to snake the rack out the passenger side hole. I didn't think I was going to be able to do that and was going to have to fully remove the front diff. That made my day when I got it out without removing the diff.

I couldn't get the new rack back in the same way without removing one of the hydraulic lines attached to the rack.
make sure your diff breather line is attached before pushing the diff back into place.

Surprisingly it is driving pretty straight after measuring everything out on the tie rod ends and centering the rack with the steering shaft. I'll get it aligned this week.

Took it for a shake down run and all the play in the steering I was experience is gone.

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Weird, it's not like you ever abuse that thing...

 

[Artie]

Probably thinking of the lower ball-joint bridge bolts at 221.

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Same issue with a previous Euro SUV at the dealer, and when I called the service manager to complain he was stupid enough to dismiss the importance of it all. Then again I had to provide them the FSM pages on adjusting the caster for them to even admit it was adjustable in the first place. And people wonder why I do my own work on cars...

This 100%. After my latest frustration with under torqued LCA bolts I was surfing Facebook marketplace while sitting at the dealership for the LCA replacement looking at used hunter machines. Was surprised to find a few not far from me attainable for around $6k. Now I need to see if I can fit all this in my already cramped basement garage.

 

[peneumbra2]

Washed my windshield yesterday...

 

[dudemancool1904]

My dog had a round of radiation treatment last week requiring me to drive him to Tustin 5 days in a row (about a 200 mile round trip door to door).

The wife was gonna do it but she got called in so I took him in the cruiser everyday. It was comfy and everything I expected. The only surprise was the MPG. With 275/70/18 E code tires weight 50ish lbs a piece, I was getting a solid 18-19 mpg varying the throttle between 65-80mph. (Hard calculated since the tire size is off). Pretty fricking awesome!

Only other thing is will probably need front brakes soon. Pads at least, probably will do rotors since they’re so inexpensive and easy. I went back through the service history but after 83k I could only find pads done at 30k and turned rotors at 57k.

 

[DesmoPilot]

The refresh is beginning. The Delta Joints on the Icon UCAs are shot, so decided to go through everything at the same time.
Removing the BP51s and going with custom Kings from Ben.
Swapping rear springs from OME 2723 to Dobinson C547.
Adding Dobonson rear track bar.
Bison Offroad front LCA bolt and shim kit. Will also weld the LCA tabs.

 

[tbisaacs]

So, Brembo makes really nice rotors and pads for the 200 series. I was expecting super harsh bite but very nice so far.

 

[Heckraiser]

Careful what kind of terrain you get involved with with those cross-drilled rotors. I had a set on my 80 and ended up packing them with mud and even got a little rock in one of the holes when I got stuck in a mud pit (not on purpose, just being a goon). I'll probably not use cross-drilled rotors again for that reason, though it was mostly user error

 

[tbisaacs]

Careful what kind of terrain you get involved with with those cross-drilled rotors. I had a set on my 80 and ended up packing them with mud and even got a little rock in one of the holes when I got stuck in a mud pit (not on purpose, just being a goon). I'll probably not use cross-drilled rotors again for that reason, though it was mostly user error

Good to know, appreciate the insight

Funny enough - I should have taken a photo but the front driver rotor that came off had the deepest groove I’ve ever seen on a rotor lol. Sure enough when I pulled the pads a rock was lodged between the lobes in the middle of the pad. Explained some unhappy noises I heard coming home from Moab last month.

 

[Ratchey]

Changed out the center diff fluid. Using Amsoil 75-90 severe duty oil (sold by my local Napa) While repositioning myself to add the second container I managed to tilt it sideways as I lifted it across my face. That oil is not pleasant in the nostril or ear. Fortunately I had goggles on. LX gave me an error when trying to engage the center diff, no 4 low. Turned it off and back on, error cleared, center diff engaged perfectly, 4lo engaged just fine. Did it several more times with no issues. Took a shower. Pretty sure I will smell gear oil for a few more days.

 

[Artie]

View attachment 3932055

The refresh is beginning. The Delta Joints on the Icon UCAs are shot, so decided to go through everything at the same time.
Removing the BP51s and going with custom Kings from Ben.
Swapping rear springs from OME 2723 to Dobinson C547.
Adding Dobonson rear track bar.
Bison Offroad front LCA bolt and shim kit. Will also weld the LCA tabs.

View attachment 3932056

I emailed Filthy a few days ago to get the ball rolling on something similar. I’ll be watching your build thread closely.