What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (8 Viewers)

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Mine does this, and a friend's LX does as well. Seems like a poorly designed tab on the bumper skin can't be grabbed firmly enough by the retaining clip, usually after removal of the skin.

Curious if someone has a solution.

Mine does this, and my Prius did it in the same spot

Knowing I’d never have to take the Prius bumper cover off, I pressed it together and JB Welded its together on the backside and left it all clamped together overnight, looked perfect and held for 5+ years

Haven’t been motivated enough to do the same on LC
 
Mine does this, and my Prius did it in the same spot

Knowing I’d never have to take the Prius bumper cover off, I pressed it together and JB Welded its together on the backside and left it all clamped together overnight, looked perfect and held for 5+ years

Haven’t been motivated enough to do the same on LC
I have the front bumper skin off often enough that I’m reluctant to use adhesive.. partly because I’m not sure how it would effect the paint on the outside when peeling it away from the VHB or other.

My front bumper skin was resprayed by the PO and already has a little peeling in a couple spots at the lower edge.. maybe not a concern for one with original paint.

To me the best case would be to build up the little ridge that is intended to catch in the bracket already. Haven’t spent any time thinking about how best to do that though.
 
Finally got to wheel the car with the new tires and suspension work, it did great! We were at Little River Canyon in AL.

Dragged the rear axle in 2-3 places, partly due to sliding on mud and partly poor lines. Otherwise it handled everything like a champion. Lots of spots on 3 wheels. Car definitely needs an alignment though, the drive home had me trailing to the right big time.


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Was not with a group of people who do this often, so they just wanted in/out. Love the look of a stuff front and hanging rear. H mode here.
 
Finally got to wheel the car with the new tires and suspension work, it did great! We were at Little River Canyon in AL.

Dragged the rear axle in 2-3 places, partly due to sliding on mud and partly poor lines. Otherwise it handled everything like a champion. Lots of spots on 3 wheels. Car definitely needs an alignment though, the drive home had me trailing to the right big time.


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Was not with a group of people who do this often, so they just wanted in/out. Love the look of a stuff front and hanging rear. H mode here.
What did you have done/what is your setup?
 
Finally got to wheel the car with the new tires and suspension work, it did great! We were at Little River Canyon in AL.

Dragged the rear axle in 2-3 places, partly due to sliding on mud and partly poor lines. Otherwise it handled everything like a champion. Lots of spots on 3 wheels. Car definitely needs an alignment though, the drive home had me trailing to the right big time.


View attachment 3929115
Was not with a group of people who do this often, so they just wanted in/out. Love the look of a stuff front and hanging rear. H mode here.
It wasnt training right before? If not they likely didn’t torque your LCA pivot bolts to spec. It’s quite high.. many shops don’t go far enough.
 
It wasnt training right before? If not they likely didn’t torque your LCA pivot bolts to spec. It’s quite high.. many shops don’t go far enough.

This…. This happened to me 2x with my Tundra

Now I bring my torque wrench when I pick it up and do the final Ugga Uggas right in the parking lot before I drive it home
 
This…. This happened to me 2x with my Tundra

Now I bring my torque wrench when I pick it up and do the final Ugga Uggas right in the parking lot before I drive it home
I used to, until I found an alignment shop I like and they were receptive. Though they were pretty surprised at how high the spec is.

207ft-lbf for anyone wondering.
 
I used to, until I found an alignment shop I like and they were receptive. Though they were pretty surprised at how high the spec is.

207ft-lbf for anyone wondering.

Yes. Same. Found one here that knows their stuff and after 2 alignments with them, I checked them in the lot and both were good.

I’ll likely still always check them now just due to the mess it caused having to have it redone elsewhere, easy enough check
 
I used to, until I found an alignment shop I like and they were receptive. Though they were pretty surprised at how high the spec is.

207ft-lbf for anyone wondering.
Thanks for this. I saw somewhere it was 220?

I watched one guy tighten my bolt with an open ended wrench while it was on the rack. I smiled, nodded, and left without ever returning.
 
Thanks for this. I saw somewhere it was 220?

I watched one guy tighten my bolt with an open ended wrench while it was on the rack. I smiled, nodded, and left without ever returning.
Probably thinking of the lower ball-joint bridge bolts at 221.

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Yes. Same. Found one here that knows their stuff and after 2 alignments with them, I checked them in the lot and both were good.

I’ll likely still always check them now just due to the mess it caused having to have it redone elsewhere, easy enough check

Same issue with a previous Euro SUV at the dealer, and when I called the service manager to complain he was stupid enough to dismiss the importance of it all. Then again I had to provide them the FSM pages on adjusting the caster for them to even admit it was adjustable in the first place. And people wonder why I do my own work on cars...
 
What did you have done/what is your setup?
Not a whole lot at the moment beyond stock. 285/75/r17 tires on Nomad 501’s. Needed to trim a little bit in the front wheel wells to eliminate rub. I’ve got a personal thread with all the maintenance I’ve done since I bought the car ~14k miles ago.
 
It wasnt training right before? If not they likely didn’t torque your LCA pivot bolts to spec. It’s quite high.. many shops don’t go far enough.
No, just got an alignment like 2-3 weeks ago after getting new tires put on. Bought the lifetime through Firestone. Certain shops here are hit and miss. Guess I found the miss.
 
No, just got an alignment like 2-3 weeks ago after getting new tires put on. Bought the lifetime through Firestone. Certain shops here are hit and miss. Guess I found the miss.

TBH this issue would probably occur in the majority of alignment bays these days. Other than those routinely doing work on track/race cars, serious off-road rigs, etc.

I'd just bring it back and say its no longer driving straight, and politely ask them to be sure they confirm all four LCA bolts go to the torque spec with a torque wrench. Maybe even mention this is a common issue on our platform.

My experience has been that if these things get done correctly and the parts are healthy you can beat the crap out of our front suspension and the alignment won't drift at all.
 
No, just got an alignment like 2-3 weeks ago after getting new tires put on. Bought the lifetime through Firestone. Certain shops here are hit and miss. Guess I found the miss.

I brought mine to our Local Firestone here, mainly because they were the only ones open on Sunday and the “tech” who looked all of 20 told me “oh, this is a 4x4, this is going to take awhile, can you pick it up tomorrow”

I just drove away…. While shaking my head
 
I brought mine to our Local Firestone here, mainly because they were the only ones open on Sunday and the “tech” who looked all of 20 told me “oh, this is a 4x4, this is going to take awhile, can you pick it up tomorrow”

I just drove away…. While shaking my head.
TBH this issue would probably occur in the majority of alignment bays these days. Other than those routinely doing work on track/race cars, serious off-road rigs, etc.

I'd just bring it back and say its no longer driving straight, and politely ask them to be sure they confirm all four LCA bolts go to the torque spec with a torque wrench. Maybe even mention this is a common issue on our platform.

My experience has been that if these things get done correctly and the parts are healthy you can beat the crap out of our front suspension and the alignment won't drift at all.

Yeah, Firestone can be hit or miss, but the lifetime will/should pay for itself in due process. I’ll just take the great advice of asking for torque spec and let them know. Shouldn’t be a big deal.

I would agree that our cars can handle more! Admittedly we had some rather novice drivers in our group driving up some flat steps and they took it with more speed than most of us would advise lol.
 
No, just got an alignment like 2-3 weeks ago after getting new tires put on. Bought the lifetime through Firestone. Certain shops here are hit and miss. Guess I found the miss.

I brought mine to our Local Firestone here, mainly because they were the only ones open on Sunday and the “tech” who looked all of 20 told me “oh, this is a 4x4, this is going to take awhile, can you pick it up tomorrow”

I just drove away…. While shaking my head
Your experiences mirror what I’ve heard most of those locations are capable of. I hope there are “good” firestones out there, but I haven’t found one yet.
 
Your experiences mirror what I’ve heard most of those locations are capable of. I hope there are “good” firestones out there, but I haven’t found one yet.
We have been using the same shop for multiple jeeps (not a fan but my wife/FIL are) in the family. So far we haven’t had issues prior to this. And have used them for multiple of my other vehicles in the past. It is what it is.
 
Almost done with replacing the steering rack.

Since I'm using tundra parts, if anyone wants the unused oem outer tierod ends that came with the rack, you can have them for free, just pay shipping. Edit: these are gone.

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I’d sure like to hear more about your experience with this. Just ordered my rack.
 
I’d sure like to hear more about your experience with this. Just ordered my rack.
I was dreading it for over a year, but wasn't too bad. Your experience might be different as I have a Tundra front end, AHC delete, and no front sway bar. I worked slowly over a few days to get it done.

I had to do the following:
remove front and engine sections of my skids
remove wheels (2)
remove shocks (2)
remove tie rod ends (2)
undo the front diff mounts (3) and let it hang down as much as possible (cvs and drive shaft still attached)
undo upper engine mount bolts (4) and lift engine up until fan jams up against shroud
Undo rack mounting bolts (3), steering coupler and steering lines (2) from rack.
remove oil filter cap

I was able to snake the rack out the passenger side hole. I didn't think I was going to be able to do that and was going to have to fully remove the front diff. That made my day when I got it out without removing the diff.

I couldn't get the new rack back in the same way without removing one of the hydraulic lines attached to the rack.
make sure your diff breather line is attached before pushing the diff back into place.

Surprisingly it is driving pretty straight after measuring everything out on the tie rod ends and centering the rack with the steering shaft. I'll get it aligned this week.

Took it for a shake down run and all the play in the steering I was experience is gone.

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