bloc
SILVER Star
Make sure they tighten the LCA bolts to spec. It’s much tighter than they are used to setting other cars.. 207ft-lbf
What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (38 Viewers)
- Thread starter MScruiser
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Make sure they tighten the LCA bolts to spec. It’s much tighter than they are used to setting other cars.. 207ft-lbf
I’ll make a point to bring this up, I’m here now discussing the details. The guy who recommended me his place has had a few 100 series cruisers and he trusts them so fingers crossed this goes smoothly.
So no alignment today, the tabs are bent out. See pics. I’ve heard and read about this issue so it’s not completely foreign to me but it is out of my limited wheelhouse of knowledge. Shop is suggesting straighting tab then welding behind it. Would this be my best option or is there something else to consider. This is a Toyota specific shop and he mentioned doing this on Tundras. Being my first interaction with them I’m not sure if I should let them do the repair or make the hike to a Cruiser shop like ACC or Greer.
I'm sure someone with more knowledge than me will chime in, but i'm certain this is extremely common. Multiple aftermarket companies make weld in tabs to strengthen this area of the LCAs. But, I don't think you need the aftermarket parts.
Example:
Toyota Tundra 2007-2021 LOWER CONTROL ARM CAM TAB GUSSETS - 2ND GEN TUNDRA | TOTAL CHAOS FABRICATION
Toyota Tundra 2007-2021 LOWER CONTROL ARM CAM TAB GUSSETS - 2ND GEN TUNDRA
www.chaosfab.com
Irritating to see. This only happens when there's a lack of due diligence on the alignment techs part. Either forcing an adjustment when things are binding or not torquing the bolt enough after alignment. I routinely check mine after an alignment, and I find them undertorqued.
Regarding fixing, I would bend them back and run a reinforcement bead behind it. I don't see any value to an aftermarket cam tab (unless it's a race rig) that requires more work and is going to get the same welding bead. The tabs are there for adjustment only. They shouldn't see any force in operation, provided the bolts are sufficiently torqued.
bloc
SILVER Star
All of this! Especially about supposed to see force when tight.
If properly torqued these shouldn’t be moving.
Personally if my tabs had flattened I’d want to see what the LCA bushing interface in the subframe looks like. I seem to remember the ends of the bushing sleeve being knurled, and if the assembly moved around enough to flatten out the tabs I’d want to know those inner surfaces were in good shape before locking it all down tight again.
But that may be my OCD talking.
Fresh set of KO2s. Laces out this time!
This is all very good to know, thanks! I’ll start checking this torque moving forward.
I have a feeling I know when this happened and it’s gotten worse moving forward. It was the first alignment I had done and it fell out at the first speed bump I went over, I felt it happen. Decided then to go to a more cruiser speciality shop after that and he told me that I would need the welding eventually and I they are one of the few shops I trust. Sadly, the 1.5 hour drive there is what keeps me from going back.
I feel like alignments should be a straightforward process and I should have a local shop I can trust to do it. Hopefully, these guys can film that role.
bloc
SILVER Star
That’s exactly why I specifically ask them to torque the bolts to spec. The fact that they are so routinely surprised by how high the spec is says a lot.
Most shops align enough other Toyotas that they can handle the basics of our rigs. It’s the process of actually locking things in that seems outside their wheelhouse.
Unless I witness them putting the torque wrench to use, I go straight home and verify torque myself.
I can’t see inside the alignment area of the shop but I’m going to print out the specs from the FSM and hand those over when I drop off from now on along with a quick double check at home.
If you want something done right…. You know the rest.
bloc
SILVER Star
A majority reason I work on cars in the first place.
same here. If I win the lottery I’m buying a hunter machine and some tire mounting and balancing equipment to match my vehicle lift I also dream about.
Ed Zachary.
I did something similar, but I also added the Noco plug port and added a weatherproof box for the connection.
Hey y'all! I just got my first 200 series the other month! Hopefully, this is an easy question, does the USB A port located by the AUX port provide power or is it just a different way to connect an audio input?
prharper
GOLD Star
It also provides power
It provides power, not much maybe 500mA if I had to guess. But it works. I use it everyday.
last weekend I installed the Beat-Sonic CarPlay system in my 2018. Installation was really easy, but of course I broke one bezel clip and lost one M6 bolt for the bezel down into the abyss. I had an extra clip on hand and it was a standard hex flange head m6 so I was able to sort that out at Ace. I did drop a second bolt which I was able to fish out with a magnet. Overall this went way smoother than installing a similar kit in an Audi A4 and all of the Land Cruiser trim pieces are very stout and reenforced well with durable fasteners and clips.
Anyway, I love the setup so far after two commutes with it.
Didn’t take too many pics but here’s one of the dash taken apart.
Anyway, I love the setup so far after two commutes with it.
Didn’t take too many pics but here’s one of the dash taken apart.
You’re going to have to show us the finished product.
Haha, indeed. I don’t snap any pics of the wire runs but I did everything exactly as shown in the company’s most recent YouTube video and it was pretty smooth. The only pain point with wiring and mounting was getting the box neatly mounted under the glovebox with the barely long enough USB cable. The USB isn’t required but I wanted it. I’ll snap some pics of the mounted boxes tomorrow but here’s the reinstalled unit (half the screen isn’t actually dark, the refresh rate just isn’t amazing so it’s hard to get a good pic of the screen):
