What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (16 Viewers)

[prharper]

After failing VA state safety inspection last week, I spent the weekend doing repairs and PM.

1. Removed 4 Bud Built skids. (Left the fuel tank skid on)
2. Went to local self-service car wash and spent $40 in quarters blasting all the muck from underneath the truck and wheel wells.
3. Replaced front OEM brake pads. Rotors were still in spec at 65k miles despite what the Toyota dealer said.
4. Installed Slee stainless steel brake lines that I've had sitting on the shelf for months.
5. Flushed brake fluid following the FSM and Techstream. Brake fluid was 2.5 yrs old.
6. Touched up BB shock guards, BB sliders, Slee rear bumper and other underbody components with POR-15 in a rattle can.
7. Replaced my bent rear LCA (Olathe Toyota Parts to the rescue with Fedex delivery on Sunday). Removal required some persuasion with a BAFH and choice words. Pic of the old one with brace. I'll hold on to and see if I can find someone with a good press and try to bend back to have as a spare.

8. Applied some rust-proofing to the underbody for the season. Filled the gun container up 2.5 times and blasted away. I prefer Corrosion Free over Fluid Film and Woolwax. < any of those are still better than nothing if you live in an area that treats roads in winter.

Rust Cure Formula 3000 DIY Deluxe Kit with RP-460HD | Corrosion FREE

Rust Cure Formula 3000 with CSC 850 Rustproofing, DIY Kit includes RP-460 HD Applicator Gun with wands 120 PSI Max, your choice of 1G (4L) or 5G (20L) Jug of Rust Cure.

corrosionfree.com

9. Reinstalled 4 skids plates. Noticed the transmission and front skids have some new scars.
10. Received my new Nitto RG tire to replace the damaged one. FWIW - Claim is filed with Tire Rack.
11. Today, took the slimy LC back to dealer with new tire for re-inspection. $25 to mount and balance tire, they waived $20 inspection fee and the truck PASSED!
12. Ordered misc OEM parts online from Serra Toyota with the current sale and free shipping to have on hand.

Nothing too exciting but glad to have all that behind me.

Time for some good Bourbon!

 

[clrussell]

After failing VA state safety inspection last week, I spent the weekend doing repairs and PM.

1. Removed 4 Bud Built skids. (Left the fuel tank skid on)
2. Went to local self-service car wash and spent $40 in quarters blasting all the muck from underneath the truck and wheel wells.
3. Replaced front OEM brake pads. Rotors were still in spec at 65k miles despite what the Toyota dealer said.
4. Installed Slee stainless steel brake lines that I've had sitting on the shelf for months.
5. Flushed brake fluid following the FSM and Techstream. Brake fluid was 2.5 yrs old.
6. Touched up BB shock guards, BB sliders, Slee rear bumper and other underbody components with POR-15 in a rattle can.
7. Replaced my bent rear LCA (Olathe Toyota Parts to the rescue with Fedex delivery on Sunday). Removal required some persuasion with a BAFH and choice words. Pic of the old one with brace. I'll hold on to and see if I can find someone with a good press and try to bend back to have as a spare.

View attachment 3781404
View attachment 3781405
8. Applied some rust-proofing to the underbody for the season. Filled the gun container up 2.5 times and blasted away. I prefer Corrosion Free over Fluid Film and Woolwax. < any of those are still better than nothing if you live in an area that treats roads in winter.

Rust Cure Formula 3000 DIY Deluxe Kit with RP-460HD | Corrosion FREE

Rust Cure Formula 3000 with CSC 850 Rustproofing, DIY Kit includes RP-460 HD Applicator Gun with wands 120 PSI Max, your choice of 1G (4L) or 5G (20L) Jug of Rust Cure.

corrosionfree.com

9. Reinstalled 4 skids plates. Noticed the transmission and front skids have some new scars.
10. Received my new Nitto RG tire to replace the damaged one. FWIW - Claim is filed with Tire Rack.
11. Today, took the slimy LC back to dealer with new tire for re-inspection. $25 to mount and balance tire, they waived $20 inspection fee and the truck PASSED!
12. Ordered misc OEM parts online from Serra Toyota with the current sale and free shipping to have on hand.

Nothing too exciting but glad to have all that behind me.

Time for some good Bourbon!

View attachment 3781428

That looks like a great reward. Weller is my hands down favorite

 

[EscapedTexan]

How’s the window noise with the Toyota window visors?

Noticeable, but not annoying.

 

[EscapedTexan]

Not much. Just a tire rotation+balance+4wheel alignment and some new wheel caps to add just a little bit of old-school Toyota vibes.

 

[TeCKis300]

After failing VA state safety inspection last week, I spent the weekend doing repairs and PM.

1. Removed 4 Bud Built skids. (Left the fuel tank skid on)
2. Went to local self-service car wash and spent $40 in quarters blasting all the muck from underneath the truck and wheel wells.
3. Replaced front OEM brake pads. Rotors were still in spec at 65k miles despite what the Toyota dealer said.
4. Installed Slee stainless steel brake lines that I've had sitting on the shelf for months.
5. Flushed brake fluid following the FSM and Techstream. Brake fluid was 2.5 yrs old.
6. Touched up BB shock guards, BB sliders, Slee rear bumper and other underbody components with POR-15 in a rattle can.
7. Replaced my bent rear LCA (Olathe Toyota Parts to the rescue with Fedex delivery on Sunday). Removal required some persuasion with a BAFH and choice words. Pic of the old one with brace. I'll hold on to and see if I can find someone with a good press and try to bend back to have as a spare.

View attachment 3781404
View attachment 3781405
8. Applied some rust-proofing to the underbody for the season. Filled the gun container up 2.5 times and blasted away. I prefer Corrosion Free over Fluid Film and Woolwax. < any of those are still better than nothing if you live in an area that treats roads in winter.

Rust Cure Formula 3000 DIY Deluxe Kit with RP-460HD | Corrosion FREE

Rust Cure Formula 3000 with CSC 850 Rustproofing, DIY Kit includes RP-460 HD Applicator Gun with wands 120 PSI Max, your choice of 1G (4L) or 5G (20L) Jug of Rust Cure.

corrosionfree.com

9. Reinstalled 4 skids plates. Noticed the transmission and front skids have some new scars.
10. Received my new Nitto RG tire to replace the damaged one. FWIW - Claim is filed with Tire Rack.
11. Today, took the slimy LC back to dealer with new tire for re-inspection. $25 to mount and balance tire, they waived $20 inspection fee and the truck PASSED!
12. Ordered misc OEM parts online from Serra Toyota with the current sale and free shipping to have on hand.

Nothing too exciting but glad to have all that behind me.

Time for some good Bourbon!

View attachment 3781428

Impressive bend in that LCA. With LCA skids no less. Do you feel like it was big hit for them to bend to that degree?

 

[LX Cruiser]

Took a long road trip this week. Middle of our 10-hr drive, the dash starts lighting up all weird, we lose radio volume, and the battery gauge starts fluctuating up to ~17V.

What in the world.

During a stop for fuel, I search Mud and find that water has ingressed somewhere. My wife did wash the LX right before we left. Hoping it’s just a clogged sunroof drain.

Next time I start it up, no more issues...

…until it starts raining the next day. Dash goes haywire. Then, at night, it stops raining, and we lose high- and low-beam headlights. I had to drive the final 30 mi on a rural 2-lane highway with fog lights only. Hahahaha Searching how to clean sunroof drains. If it’s the windshield seal, I really hope it doesn’t rain again until I can get the LX into a shop.

 

[weaponoffreedom]

New lower control arms, complete, new sway bar links. Done at Hendrick Lexus in Charlotte. To big of a job to do in my garage. Also had them exchange the AHC fluid. Just south of $2700 dollars.

It fixed the clunk.

 

[prharper]

Impressive bend in that LCA. With LCA skids no less. Do you feel like it was big hit for them to bend to that degree?

Damage was done low speed in a rock garden. I attribute it to the weight. Most likely had a full LRA 24 gal and main tank was probably 1/2 full. Fridge sits on that side of the truck. Spare tire/wheel are also on that side in the rear mounted on Slee rear bumper, swing out.

 

[bloc]

Took a long road trip this week. Middle of our 10-hr drive, the dash starts lighting up all weird, we lose radio volume, and the battery gauge starts fluctuating up to ~17V.

What in the world.

During a stop for fuel, I search Mud and find that water has ingressed somewhere. My wife did wash the LX right before we left. Hoping it’s just a clogged sunroof drain.

Next time I start it up, no more issues...

…until it starts raining the next day. Dash goes haywire. Then, at night, it stops raining, and we lose high- and low-beam headlights. I had to drive the final 30 mi on a rural 2-lane highway with fog lights only. Hahahaha Searching how to clean sunroof drains. If it’s the windshield seal, I really hope it doesn’t rain again until I can get the LX into a shop.

Get some of the plastic based premium blue painters tape and seal up the sunroof gasket until you can get it checked out

 

[LX Cruiser]

Get some of the plastic based premium blue painters tape and seal up the sunroof gasket until you can get it checked out

I cleaned them out. Ran trimmer line and some warm water through, and it drained a lot quicker than when I started after a few pours on each side.

Everything came back (dash lights off, radio volume is back) except my headlights. No DRLs, low or high beams. I checked all the connectors in both driver and passenger side kick panels. Couldn’t find any moisture anywhere. No moisture on carpet, either.

Headlight fuses are intact. Could the relays be bad in the engine bay fuse box? There are three in a row for DRL, High and Low.

 

[bloc]

I cleaned them out. Ran trimmer line and some warm water through, and it drained a lot quicker than when I started after a few pours on each side.

Everything came back (dash lights off, radio volume is back) except my headlights. No DRLs, low or high beams. I checked all the connectors in both driver and passenger side kick panels. Couldn’t find any moisture anywhere. No moisture on carpet, either.

Headlight fuses are intact. Could the relays be bad in the engine bay fuse box? There are three in a row for DRL, High and Low.

View attachment 3781876

Are your DRL's working?

The only thing the high and low beams have in common is the 40A fusible link and they are controlled by the body control module. Otherwise they have separate relays and smaller individual fuses.

The odds of two relays going bad at the same time are very low. I'd personally be concerned about the volt gauge showing 17.. something isn't right.

The attached EWD is for a 2009 LX

 

[Sandroad]

I cleaned them out. Ran trimmer line and some warm water through, and it drained a lot quicker than when I started after a few pours on each side.

Everything came back (dash lights off, radio volume is back) except my headlights. No DRLs, low or high beams. I checked all the connectors in both driver and passenger side kick panels. Couldn’t find any moisture anywhere. No moisture on carpet, either.

Headlight fuses are intact. Could the relays be bad in the engine bay fuse box? There are three in a row for DRL, High and Low.

View attachment 3781876

Did you also check for moisture in the door sills? There are connectors there that corrode from leaks. If the carpeting is dry, then the problem connectors could be in those sills.

 

[LX Cruiser]

Are your DRL's working?

The only thing the high and low beams have in common is the 40A fusible link and they are controlled by the body control module. Otherwise they have separate relays and smaller individual fuses.

The odds of two relays going bad at the same time are very low. I'd personally be concerned about the volt gauge showing 17.. something isn't right.

The attached EWD is for a 2009 LX

View attachment 3781906

No hi, low, or drl. Everything else is fine.

When the dash went nuts, the battery gauge fluctuated up to 17V but it is back to normal now.

EDIT: the headlight indicators on the dash do work. But the lights themselves do not come on.

Does that 40A fuse control anything else?

 

[LX Cruiser]

Did you also check for moisture in the door sills? There are connectors there that corrode from leaks. If the carpeting is dry, then the problem connectors could be in those sills.

Yeah I had to remove them to see behind the kick panels. No moisture.

 

[Sandroad]

Yeah I had to remove them to see behind the kick panels. No moisture.

Hmmm……if those are dry, I’m suspecting a leaky windshield or cowl causing a behind the dash leak. Running the heat on HI for a while might help dry things out to get the lights back.

 

[LX Cruiser]

Hmmm……if those are dry, I’m suspecting a leaky windshield or cowl causing a behind the dash leak. Running the heat on HI for a while might help dry things out to get the lights back.

Yeah I guess I agree; it probably wasn’t coming in through the sunroof. Windshield anppears original. It’s OEM, and there is no evidence of it being replaced in the service history.

 

[bloc]

No hi, low, or drl. Everything else is fine.

When the dash went nuts, the battery gauge fluctuated up to 17V but it is back to normal now.

EDIT: the headlight indicators on the dash do work. But the lights themselves do not come on.

Does that 40A fuse control anything else?

Yeah it protects a number of circuits, some of which would be obvious if they weren't working.

It appears the headlamp indicator light is triggered by the BCM notifying the cluster over the CAN network, so the BCM thinks it is trying to turn on the headlights..

If the rest of the stuff on the 40A MAIN fuse is working you'll need to get a voltmeter or circuit tester out and determine what's going on at the relay terminals. On the low beam relay you should see +12v at terminals 1 & 5, and you should see ground on terminal 2 when the headlights are turned on.

Whether it's an issue with the relay or the BCM triggering it, you should be able to bypass the relay by building a jumper using blade terminals and appropriate sized wire and insert that between terminals 3 & 5. Headlights should turn on immediately, and will stay on as long as the jumper is in there, assuming all the relevant fuses and wires themselves are intact. Obviously not a good long-term solution but that would let you continue your trip safely.

If this is a water ingress issue you definitely should see evidence in at least one of the kick panels even if it's the windshield. Gravity will keep it flowing downward and they are the lowest points in the cabin.

 

[skrypj]

Snagged a CBI roof rack with the BF deal and free shipping. I had one on my GX460 and liked it

 

[turbo8]

Got the new rear arms installed, from Superior AU. Anxious to get out and beat on these. I’m optimistic they are going to take the abuse.
View attachment 3781008
View attachment 3781009

Guess I was late to the party. Were those $650 AU?
Did you have to modify the front LCA mount to make those work?

 

[TN LX570]

Guess I was late to the party. Were those $650 AU?
Did you have to modify the front LCA mount to make those work?

Yes, $650 AU. However, as I'm typing this they have 20% off for Black Friday. Shipping was approx. $150 USD. Zero modifications required.