It’s been a busy couple of weekends and Thanksgiving week building a set of DIY drawers. I don’t think they came out too bad since I only have basic tools and no table saw.
What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (34 Viewers)
- Thread starter MScruiser
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- 200 series
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TN LX570
SILVER Star
Yes, I'm 99% sure that's the case. They have 2 different skus for the 200 and 300, but I think it's the same part that goes in the box.
turbo8
Supporting Vendor
That is a great price for those. I'm pretty sure I can't come close to that price, so I don't think I'll pursue lower control arms at this time.
I am disappointed that 2 members bent their LCAs with my braces though. So I won't be making anymore of those.
I have a thread comparing LCAs lengths and weights. The 250 series also looks like they are the same length/size.
picked up the badlands 3 ton off road jack and some soft shackles at harbor freight.
also deciding on some canvasback liners or a dobinson rear drawer setup fs locally.
also deciding on some canvasback liners or a dobinson rear drawer setup fs locally.
I'll give the brace credit. I think it's impossible to build something impervious unless taking on ridiculous weight. Even that compounds when the overall rig gets so heavy with armor that every armored piece needs to be built stronger again to be sufficiently robust at the new weight level.
Perhaps the difference with the brace is that getting home was still an option versus a more severe bend that totally compromises alignment?
Thinking out loud, could your stainless brace be built into a stage 2 version with a more extensive aluminum "cap", instead of the current brackets? That spans the critical middle section? Not sure if I explained that well enough.
Finally got around to doing the big brake upgrade. (Ordered the parts several years ago during the big sale) When I was putting on my snow tires I noticed the pads were a bit low. Less than the thickness of a utility blade on one side. (changed them about 3 years ago) Went ahead and ordered the good bit that was suggested in the thread. First hole took about 35 seconds getting the feel for things. Fourth hole took only 11 seconds. Surprised and impressed with the improvement in braking. Much better than expected.
Found a coolant leak. Tried to tighten it a bit more. Not going to be a difficult repair but will still be a pain the ass.
Doing the 145K oil change tomorrow.
Found a coolant leak. Tried to tighten it a bit more. Not going to be a difficult repair but will still be a pain the ass.
Doing the 145K oil change tomorrow.
What I did this week in my 200: drive 1800 miles with what appears to be a failing alternator.
Symptoms:
• Dash briefly goes haywire
• Note battery voltage gauge
• Loss of radio volume (comes back next time truck is started)
• Headlights don’t work (no DRLs, low beams, or high beams). Something got fried.
I’m thinking voltage regulator is going out. Fried something to the headlights. Going to get my multimeter out today and see what I can find.
Symptoms:
• Dash briefly goes haywire
• Note battery voltage gauge
• Loss of radio volume (comes back next time truck is started)
• Headlights don’t work (no DRLs, low beams, or high beams). Something got fried.
I’m thinking voltage regulator is going out. Fried something to the headlights. Going to get my multimeter out today and see what I can find.
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Dont sell yourself short, they came out killer. Great job!
Voltage reading of 0.1V @ terminals 1 & 5 of the low beam relay with the headlights on.
0 Ohms resistance between terminal 2 and ground.
I have all the connectors apart. Sprayed and cleaned with Deoxit. Letting them dry before reconnecting.
bloc
SILVER Star
No voltage at 1&5 means power isn’t getting to the relay, whether it’s the 40A fuse, the headlight fuse, or some wiring issue.Voltage reading of 0.1V @ terminals 1 & 5 of the low beam relay with the headlights on.
0 Ohms resistance between terminal 2 and ground.
I have all the connectors apart. Sprayed and cleaned with Deoxit. Letting them dry before reconnecting.
I had a spare headlight bulb. Put it in not thinking anything would happen, but it WORKS.
Apparently the voltage surges burned the bulbs out.
So I went and bought 3 others. I now have high and low beams. Right after I checked the high beams, the battery died (car doors won’t even lock) so I couldn’t check DRLs.
Before putting the new bulb in, I could hear and feel the relays working. So I don’t know why I don’t see 12V consistent across terminals 1 & 5.
I want to go for a drive tomorrow (with headlights OFF) to see if it’ll freak out again. I’m not convinced that little bit of corrosion caused the voltage surge. But then again I am kind of a novice with electronics.
bloc
SILVER Star
Sorry I wasn’t clear. Terminals 1&5 should each show 12v to ground, not to each other.I had a spare headlight bulb. Put it in not thinking anything would happen, but it WORKS.
Apparently the voltage surges burned the bulbs out.
So I went and bought 3 others. I now have high and low beams. Right after I checked the high beams, the battery died (car doors won’t even lock) so I couldn’t check DRLs.
Before putting the new bulb in, I could hear and feel the relays working. So I don’t know why I don’t see 12V consistent across terminals 1 & 5.
I want to go for a drive tomorrow (with headlights OFF) to see if it’ll freak out again. I’m not convinced that little bit of corrosion caused the voltage surge. But then again I am kind of a novice with electronics.
But glad it seems you are figuring things out…
Wow haha. Total novice here
bloc
SILVER Star
Trust me, I’ve done the same thing.
I would use the paint marker pen to draw a line on the bolts and on the flat surface of BOTCK to ensure they have not moved over time. Mine have moved a little after 3 months and re-torqued them and have not moved since 6 months now. just an fyi..
So for clarification, these plugs are the better style that dont suck correct? These are the ones with a hew head instead of the cursed allen key?
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Did just this and checked after my off-roaring this past weekend. So far, so good.
FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
Correct. Do a search on the part #'s and you will see pictures.
thanks, I need the drain plug, what a dumb design, without the right knowledge of hitting the thing with a hammer to crush the wahser.
