For better or worse, it's in my grubby hands. Going to keep expectations low. I want to be able to read Gaia with more fidelity when off-road!
Gasp** But its not OEM!!!
Is the sky falling?
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For better or worse, it's in my grubby hands. Going to keep expectations low. I want to be able to read Gaia with more fidelity when off-road!
You've been hauling if your average was 74.1mph. Hope your hunt was successful.I put 4,800 miles on her driving from CLT to CO and back on a hunting trip ... OK, it was actually 1,898 miles over 2.5 days out ... 0 miles over 3.5 days ... and 1,865 miles over two days back ...
A pic from a fuel stop in Colby, KS .... lots of flat relatively straight sections of I-70 ...View attachment 942782
A shot coming down into the clouds out of the Snowy Range in WY 130 towards Centennial, WYView attachment 942783
Gasp** But its not OEM!!!
Is the sky falling?
Do you plan to part with the Gamiviti?? I have one on my 100 series and I've been toying with the idea of picking one up for the 200. You know, for the sake of symmetry.Took a step back down from the OME 2724 springs to the OME 2723 and added Airbag Man HP5051 kit.
View attachment 3281017
Also removed my Gamiviti roof rack and replaced it with a factory rack.
Do you plan to part with the Gamiviti?? I have one on my 100 series and I've been toying with the idea of picking one up for the 200. You know, for the sake of symmetry.
Well done! @Tripledave, this is mine, and it must go.Thread 'ABQ, NM: 200-series Gamiviti Roof Rack'
For Sale - ABQ, NM: 200-series Gamiviti Roof Rack - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/abq-nm-200-series-gamiviti-roof-rack.1308672/
Stock amp? If not, what are you driving that with?Hit 50,000 mies today .. I guess she is broken in.
Also received my backordered sub: Audiofrog GS8ND2 , Dual coil 2 ohms. Some minor tweaking to mount; rather than drill new holes into the sub box I dremeled reliefs on the OD of mount flange in way of the factory 6 screw locations.
View attachment 3285139
View attachment 3285141
View attachment 3285142
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Stock amp. speaker doesn't buy much but I had the panel off anyways. Same impedance and similar efficiency to stock, so just a higher quality part.Stock amp? If not, what are you driving that with?
Don't want to be a party pooper, but the posted efficiency seems to be optimistic. This speaker was reviewed on "Erin's Audio Corner" where he uses a Klippel to measure drivers.Stock amp. speaker doesn't buy much but I had the panel off anyways. Same impedance and similar efficiency to stock, so just a higher quality part.
So this begs the question what does the OEM speaker produce and for how many minutes before the paper cone disintegrates into distorted mush.Don't want to be a party pooper, but the posted efficiency seems to be optimistic. This speaker was reviewed on "Erin's Audio Corner" where he uses a Klippel to measure drivers.
Here are his results: (TLDR - 91db advertised vs 86db measured)
Frequency Response:
- Since this is designed as a woofer and not a midrange/woofer, the average sensitivity is calculated from 40Hz to 300Hz rather than my usual 300Hz - 1kHz. From 40-300Hz the average sensitivity is 80.1dB at 2.83v/1 meter at 4-ohm. At 1-ohm nominal the sensitivity is raised about 6dB to an average of 86.1dB at 2.83v/1 meter.
- On-axis response linearity is not reasonably within ±1.5dB thanks to the resonance at ~80Hz.
- On-axis response linearity is ±3.0dB from 32Hz to 300Hz.
- There is a 5dB drop in output from 100Hz to 300Hz.
- Upper frequency response is limited to 500Hz where a strong resonance occurs. But, again, this drive unit is not intended to be played above 300Hz per the manufacturer. This data simply points to agreeance with that and a cautionary tale should someone wonder if they can push the upper end limit above the 300Hz recommendation.
Although, possibly being able to get the 1 ohm load and fit the enclosure may make it best aftermarket option anyways.
Don't want to be a party pooper, but the posted efficiency seems to be optimistic. This speaker was reviewed on "Erin's Audio Corner" where he uses a Klippel to measure drivers.
Here are his results: (TLDR - 91db advertised vs 86db measured)
Frequency Response:
- Since this is designed as a woofer and not a midrange/woofer, the average sensitivity is calculated from 40Hz to 300Hz rather than my usual 300Hz - 1kHz. From 40-300Hz the average sensitivity is 80.1dB at 2.83v/1 meter at 4-ohm. At 1-ohm nominal the sensitivity is raised about 6dB to an average of 86.1dB at 2.83v/1 meter.
- On-axis response linearity is not reasonably within ±1.5dB thanks to the resonance at ~80Hz.
- On-axis response linearity is ±3.0dB from 32Hz to 300Hz.
- There is a 5dB drop in output from 100Hz to 300Hz.
- Upper frequency response is limited to 500Hz where a strong resonance occurs. But, again, this drive unit is not intended to be played above 300Hz per the manufacturer. This data simply points to agreeance with that and a cautionary tale should someone wonder if they can push the upper end limit above the 300Hz recommendation.
Although, possibly being able to get the 1 ohm load and fit the enclosure may make it best aftermarket option anyways.
Measurements (freq. response) have relatively little influence on tonality and musical performance.
This is actually a positive here. ^
- There is a 5dB drop in output from 100Hz to 300Hz.
- Upper frequency response is limited to 500Hz where a strong resonance occurs. But, again, this drive unit is not intended to be played above 300Hz per the manufacturer. This data simply points to agreeance with that and a cautionary tale should someone wonder if they can push the upper end limit above the 300Hz recommendation.
And both these points are irrelevant
- On-axis response linearity is not reasonably within ±1.5dB thanks to the resonance at ~80Hz.
- On-axis response linearity is ±3.0dB from 32Hz to 300Hz.
Speakers are like spouses: What is a good spouse for one is not good for another. I have been asked by friends, family and such what do I consider the best speaker. (I am one of those idiots that spent entirely too much on my home system) I always tell them that the best speaker is the one that sounds the best to them. The only time I have given any attention to speaker efficiency is to make sure my amp can drive them without going into clipping. Lower impedance requires more current. Also, impedance is frequency dependent.There is quite a bit of data and research out there that suggests otherwise about measuring of speakers and determining overall performance, but to each their own...The audio reproduction industry in general has functioned on false narratives and snake oil for decades, so this probably isn't the best venue for that discussion.
I was really only speaking to the discrepancy in efficiency since one of the OPs goals was replicating the efficiency of the OEM speaker. I agree for a car audio sub, the other factors listed are not meaningful faults. But, also, I don't think the listing was ever intended to be a "list of faults" as much as a description of the characteristics of the speaker. To be fair though, the reviewer did have an overall negative review of the driver, at least relative to some much more expensive drivers that also don't fit the OPs size requirements, so his overall analysis doesn't really apply to this situation.
Hit a deer on the way to work this morning.