What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (24 Viewers)

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First oil change on my 2011.

Bought my LC last November with a little under 50,000 miles from a Toyota dealer in southeast Texas. It was a trade-in on a new one. One owner, clear carfax and the dealer had service records since it was purchased and maintenanced there.

First, took off entire skid plate to check everything underneath. There are 3 pieces in the front covering the bottom of the engine. You only need to take off the driver's side to change the oil.

I will skip the oil change basics. Unless anyone has questions about it...we can definitely discuss.

Here are the Important details I want to mention/share:

1. I put on a different housing which was suggested here on the site. The housing is aluminum, made for the Venza (I believe). It is identical to the black plastic LC/Tundra 5.7 oil filter housing in every way except you have to change out the part the filter slides on in the middle of the housing due to its length difference (see pics). In my opinion, the aluminum looks better and should be better quality. Also everything else around it is already aluminum so not sure why the black plastic was chosen for this part in the first place.

2. I used a drain tool for the filter housing sold on Amazon which I believe saved me some trouble in regard to getting the oil out of the housing before unscrewing it (see pics). Every replacement filter includes a little plastic piece which is used to stick into the filter housing to drain it of the oil inside before unscrewing the entire filter housing. These work, but seems people were getting a little messy when I watched YouTube and read other articles. So I decided to get this screw type to assist in this task. There were a few people knocking these for being too slow or not letting all the oil out. I didn't have that problem. Got it on fast, got all of the oil out and went on to take off housing. No trouble at all.

3. I used a filter housing wrench designed for the job. This tool is great and you can't remove the housing without it (see pic). I recommend using a socket with it, not just a ratchet. I do feel that if you have a stubborn housing you could break something due to the need of some extra torque when loosening. I have also read that this happened to others so I just avoid that.

4. I made sure to scrap off the drain plug washer off the outside of the oil pan and replace it with a new one.

The oil change took a while since I was tinkering with things a lot and finding the best approach for each task. From jacking up only one side of the vehicle to resetting the oil change reminder, it was all pretty simple, routine work. All in all, it was a success. I did fit 8 quarts of oil in the motor.

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You made sure to put the drain plug on with your impact, right? Only way to mimic dealer service.
 
You made sure to put the drain plug on with your impact, right? Only way to mimic dealer service.
I assume that’s right.. that’s definitely how mine came after being serviced by Lexus all its life..
 
I assume that’s right.. that’s definitely how mine came after being serviced by Lexus all its life..
That's why I do it all myself. The only reason I needed the flathead screwdriver (in my tool set) for this job was to get the old drain plug gasket off the oil pan. So you are correct, I'm sure the dealer tried to make sure my drain plug was fused with the oil pan. I did buy new gaskets for the drain plug and even a new drain plug, just in case. I consider myself lucky to find no "cross-threading" or damage during this filter change or oil draining process. My oil filler cap was not so lucky. I changed it out for a new one because it was apparent that a pair of Channellocks got a hold of it before I made this rescue. Anyways, in summary, use a torque racket like the one I have in my pic to tighten everything to factory specs. Also lube all gaskets...
 
The LC, Sequoia and Tundra share basically the same V8 engine and frame. Next year there is no LC and the other two get V6 power plants and lighter frames which will probably negatively impact tow ratings.

The new Tundra needs to tow at least 11k+ if they hope to have any chance of keeping up with the Big 3 in truck towing compartment. Their ratings on the current gen Tundra are getting left in the dust.
 
Started sourcing parts for my next leg up on our 200. I have a lot of fun stuff on the way. To start it all off these finally came… it will be at least a month or so until I have everything here to start wrenching on it again.

Also, spent some time detailing the engine bay after our last few trips to VT wheeling. Not to bad for a 10 year old vehicle.

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Added a plug to the rear bumper so I can plug in a cradle winch for use off the back or off my log/car hauler trailer...."+
" cable runs to along frame rail up into engine bay....haven't connected it yet, still need to take some measurements with my trailer....
 
Are your rims the 18" TRD for the Tundra? I was looking at these rims online at Toyota dealers but they say the rims don't fit Land Cruisers, only the Tundra and Sequoia...here is the part number. Thanks View attachment 2713704
They fit. It's the exact same bolt pattern, don't believe everything toyota website tells you.
 
Are your rims the 18" TRD for the Tundra? I was looking at these rims online at Toyota dealers but they say the rims don't fit Land Cruisers, only the Tundra and Sequoia...here is the part number. Thanks View attachment 2713704
They are 20x9 Factory Style wheels. BFG 285/55R20's
 
Purchased an EVC throttle control at the Outdoor Adventure Expo. So easy to install I put it in in the parking lot.

What a difference in throttle response.


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Finished my ADGU premier platform/single sided drawer install the other day. What a great set up, it ticks off all the boxes I was looking for lightweight, easily removable, high quality & the ability to eventually go one sided with it. I am waiting to install my platform fold out sections until needed. This set up is really nice if you are constantly hauling around something long eg surfboards in my case with one of section of the seats down as it allows useable space underneath the item in the rear. I kept my drivers side open and am using heavy duty plastic storage bins simply because they will be hauling wetsuits & wet items. Also, Andy was super helpful in working with me to customize my set up as well as answer any install questions I had. Anyway, highly recommend!

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  • Changed the oil (swapped from Toyota 0w-20 to Mobil 5w-30)
  • Little guy helped me grease up the KDSS valve (with 25k on the clock, it didn't look all that bad and I did crack the bolts open a half turn)
  • Applied McKee's 37 glass restorer and coating on all the exterior windows (slicker than snot now)
  • Pro Tint over in Plano, TX installed LLumar IRX ceramic tint on the sides and back as well as Llumar Air 80 on the windshield (thanks to @HSTexan for the recommendation)
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They are expensive! You can order ones from from a 40 and just sand the back flat. They have a little bump / nipple on the back. I have not done this, but have seen it mentioned as a work around vs buying the HE version.

Very much a ridiculous price...fj goes for 40 give or take.

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