What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (32 Viewers)

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Is the MAF an item that tends to fail on these trucks? Did you try to clean it first? I use this and clean every couple years on my vehicles. They do seem to run better afterwards so your observation is probably valid.

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Is the MAF an item that tends to fail on these trucks? Did you try to clean it first? I use this and clean every couple years on my vehicles. They do seem to run better afterwards so your observation is probably valid.

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I did not attempt to clean as I have read a lot of reports that cleaning can be of limited benefit and the process itself creates a risk of damage. For the cost I just replaced it and assume I'll get another 100k out of it. I was surprised that I noticed a difference. I'm asking for feedback here to try and account for a variety of bias that could be at play in my noticing a difference. Do MAF Sensors degrade over time in accuracy or is their function more or less binary (works or doesn't)? Is it odd that I would notice a difference, if I hadn't noticed a problem before? Having only put 10k on the clock, maybe the degradation happened before I took title and therefore couldn't have noticed... etc.
 
I did not attempt to clean as I have read a lot of reports that cleaning can be of limited benefit and the process itself creates a risk of damage. For the cost I just replaced it and assume I'll get another 100k out of it. I was surprised that I noticed a difference. I'm asking for feedback here to try and account for a variety of bias that could be at play in my noticing a difference. Do MAF Sensors degrade over time in accuracy or is their function more or less binary (works or doesn't)? Is it odd that I would notice a difference, if I hadn't noticed a problem before? Having only put 10k on the clock, maybe the degradation happened before I took title and therefore couldn't have noticed... etc.
They do get a build up on them which is why cleaning them helps. They do become less effective. So it is very likely you would notice a difference when replacing a non-cleaned one.
 
I just replaced MAF Sensor as a preventative maintenance item as I check off my list of 100k mile plan. I wasn't experiencing any specific issues that caused me to replace the MAF, I just noticed that it would be very easy to do and the part was $88, so I replaced it. This was the very first thing I have done on my list, but I swear the engine runs better/smoother, with a less mechanical sound. Took it for a drive and I can't pinpoint what feels different about it just that it 'feels' like it is running better.

I don't know much about MAF performance degradation and impacts, but I had assumed that if it wasn't performing well, it would be obvious or throw a code. Is it surprising that I am noticing a difference with this one small change?

PCV is next, then plugs/boots, oil change and diffs/transfer case oil change and prop lube.

this is a lazy request on my part, but do you happen to have the part number for the new MAF sensor?
 
Flipped some dog meme fake internet money (what?!) during this weeks market hysteria and decided to treat myself with one of these. I have wanted a roof top tent for a while, but always held off due to their weight and difficulty to get on and off. I strap kayaks on the roof more often than I would use a tent. This company seems to have mitigated those issues. Should arrive in July.



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Had some down time this week and I was finally able to install the Slee battery tray and group 31 battery. It’s a tight fit, but as usual everything from Slee is nicely executed. Down the road I’ll add the secondary battery tray with a RedArc.
I also installed some camping lights on my roof rack, they are insanely bright, but very low profile. They’re an Amazon special so time will tell how long they last. Working on cleaning up my wiring, don’t grill me on it too hard :rofl:

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Had some down time this week and I was finally able to install the Slee battery tray and group 31 battery. It’s a tight fit, but as usual everything from Slee is nicely executed. Down the road I’ll add the secondary battery tray with a RedArc.
I also installed some camping lights on my roof rack, they are insanely bright, but very low profile. They’re an Amazon special so time will tell how long they last. Working on cleaning up my wiring, don’t grill me on it too hard :rofl:

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I agree that is a convenient place to mount stuff, but how do you access the fuse box?
 
I agree that is a convenient place to mount stuff, but how do you access the fuse box?
I just disconnect the wires at the bus terminal and there’s enough slop to lift and twist the fuse box cover out of the way. Less than five minutes worth of work. I may move all of it elsewhere eventually
 
this is a lazy request on my part, but do you happen to have the part number for the new MAF sensor?

22204-0F030 is the part I bought from Olathe Toyota. $88.57
 
Well, lift and tires are ordered for my ‘13 LC200! Went with the Ironman 4x4 2in Foam Cell Pro kit with their UCA’s and Nitto Ridge Grappler’s in 285x70r18. I’ll update you guys with pictures laters. Hoping this will be the perfect set up. Who else is running a similar kit? 🍻
 
In the midst of replacing fan pulley bracket, tensioner, idler, belt and fan clutch, all planned, and thermostat, unplanned, it was leaking, only done 40k miles ago but looks like cheap garbage part. Ordered OEM be in Monday. Belt was done about the same time and a Dayco, appears to be fine but I put a new Bando on there anyway.

Belt line all buttoned up, may do the fan clutch, fan and shroud tomorrow but tstat is tight with those in there!
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Oh and huge bonus picked up a nice set of Rock Warriors from a local mud member, new rings and bolts, wheels in fantastic shape, center caps are decent, 4 for 1200. Thought those kinds of deals were long gone. I'd come close to spending 2500 on 5 a couple times.
 
Plastic to metal; Swapped out the oil filter cap and heater t’s. The oil filter was straight forward, but the heater t’s are loose and leaking. Thinking I need to dump the factory spring clamps for something with more pressure, but at least the plastic pieces were okay if I need to put them back in for now.
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Plastic to metal; Swapped out the oil filter cap and heater t’s. The oil filter was straight forward, but the heater t’s are loose and leaking. Thinking I need to dump the factory spring clamps for something with more pressure, but at least the plastic pieces were okay if I need to put them back in for now.

do you by chance have a parts list for heater-t's and metal filter housing? looks like a worthy upgrade for not too much time and money.
 
do you by chance have a parts list for heater-t's and metal filter housing? looks like a worthy upgrade for not too much time and money.
Filter cap part number is in the pic. You have to swap out the support tube.

T's were not a Yota part and still work in progress
 
Installed Bilstein 6112/5160 suspension (front and rear) for a 2" lift, along with Total Chaos UCAs.

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Before and after:

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After replacing the MAF Sensor and PCV Valve, yesterday I replaced the Spark Plugs with Rutheniem HX from NGK. Old plugs were in pretty good shape with just a bit of oil.

Here are two of the most crusty of the old plugs. Not terrible after 100k...

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Today, I started another project:

I decided to attempt coupling my new ARB twin with my existing ARB single (didn’t want to bother with removing it, so figured I would use it) and running the line back to the tailgate. This where I’m planning to mount the quick connect. There should be plenty of room outside the bracket to mount an elbow to connect the 1/4 inch line. Amazon sent the wrong size air line so I can’t finish until tomorrow. The 3rd photo is where I’m interrupting the original single compressor air line, allowing me to continue using that quick connect up front; each compressor will have a check valve before the tee coupler that runs to the back, so only the tailgate connection will be getting air from both compressors. Huge credit to @TeCKis300 for the inspiration and the reminder about check valves!

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Retired my crusty Weathertech mats for some OEM rubber liners. The coverage is about the same. My hope is that the smooth rubber texture will be easier to clean than the WT mats which are basically always dirty.


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