Is the MAF an item that tends to fail on these trucks? Did you try to clean it first? I use this and clean every couple years on my vehicles. They do seem to run better afterwards so your observation is probably valid.
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Is the MAF an item that tends to fail on these trucks? Did you try to clean it first? I use this and clean every couple years on my vehicles. They do seem to run better afterwards so your observation is probably valid.
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They do get a build up on them which is why cleaning them helps. They do become less effective. So it is very likely you would notice a difference when replacing a non-cleaned one.I did not attempt to clean as I have read a lot of reports that cleaning can be of limited benefit and the process itself creates a risk of damage. For the cost I just replaced it and assume I'll get another 100k out of it. I was surprised that I noticed a difference. I'm asking for feedback here to try and account for a variety of bias that could be at play in my noticing a difference. Do MAF Sensors degrade over time in accuracy or is their function more or less binary (works or doesn't)? Is it odd that I would notice a difference, if I hadn't noticed a problem before? Having only put 10k on the clock, maybe the degradation happened before I took title and therefore couldn't have noticed... etc.
I just replaced MAF Sensor as a preventative maintenance item as I check off my list of 100k mile plan. I wasn't experiencing any specific issues that caused me to replace the MAF, I just noticed that it would be very easy to do and the part was $88, so I replaced it. This was the very first thing I have done on my list, but I swear the engine runs better/smoother, with a less mechanical sound. Took it for a drive and I can't pinpoint what feels different about it just that it 'feels' like it is running better.
I don't know much about MAF performance degradation and impacts, but I had assumed that if it wasn't performing well, it would be obvious or throw a code. Is it surprising that I am noticing a difference with this one small change?
PCV is next, then plugs/boots, oil change and diffs/transfer case oil change and prop lube.
Had some down time this week and I was finally able to install the Slee battery tray and group 31 battery. It’s a tight fit, but as usual everything from Slee is nicely executed. Down the road I’ll add the secondary battery tray with a RedArc.
I also installed some camping lights on my roof rack, they are insanely bright, but very low profile. They’re an Amazon special so time will tell how long they last. Working on cleaning up my wiring, don’t grill me on it too hard
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I just disconnect the wires at the bus terminal and there’s enough slop to lift and twist the fuse box cover out of the way. Less than five minutes worth of work. I may move all of it elsewhere eventuallyI agree that is a convenient place to mount stuff, but how do you access the fuse box?
this is a lazy request on my part, but do you happen to have the part number for the new MAF sensor?
Installed Diode Dynamics' new 3inch pod lights in there flood beam pattern. Mounted them with CBI ditch light brackets, I don’t recommend these as they required quite a bit of dremeling to not rub on the cowl. Used an OEM style switch. First time doing any real wiring so it took awhile but I’m happy with the results!
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Plastic to metal; Swapped out the oil filter cap and heater t’s. The oil filter was straight forward, but the heater t’s are loose and leaking. Thinking I need to dump the factory spring clamps for something with more pressure, but at least the plastic pieces were okay if I need to put them back in for now.
Filter cap part number is in the pic. You have to swap out the support tube.do you by chance have a parts list for heater-t's and metal filter housing? looks like a worthy upgrade for not too much time and money.