I upgraded the starting battery in the 200 with the Slee Offroad tray kit and an Interstate 31P-AGM7. materials and pictures
What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (33 Viewers)
- Thread starter MScruiser
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I upgraded the starting battery in the 200 with the Slee Offroad tray kit and an Interstate 31P-AGM7. materials and pictures
^Looking good.
Beware that there have been common issues arising from Slee's battery extension being made of aluminum. Overtime, either from dissimilar metals, corrosion, heat cycling, what have you, people have had battery connection or non-start issues. May want to torque the connections down firmly.
Or maybe they've addressed the issues and it's fixed?
Beware that there have been common issues arising from Slee's battery extension being made of aluminum. Overtime, either from dissimilar metals, corrosion, heat cycling, what have you, people have had battery connection or non-start issues. May want to torque the connections down firmly.
Or maybe they've addressed the issues and it's fixed?
Thanks for the caution. Maybe I’ll try some conductive grease.
your cruiser and your money, so your choice entirely. I encourage you to research the Oz 200-series forums (lcool) before laying down your hard-earned for the ARB rear bar. Unlike the ARB bull bars, their rear bars are not universally regarded as a hassle-free long term upgrade.
YMMV, Tony
Maybe give Slee a call and see if they might recommend using and anti-oxidant coating on those aluminum connectors?
Amazon product ASIN B0019KHHRE
The LX570 got some new shoes. Falcon Wildpeak At3w, looking forward to testing them out.
afgman786
SILVER Star
Yay rust prevention...
Going around finding surface rust patches to grind down, lay a coat of rust reformer then rustoleum high enamel before applying fluid film to the whole undercarriage
Going around finding surface rust patches to grind down, lay a coat of rust reformer then rustoleum high enamel before applying fluid film to the whole undercarriage
A better ride in all four corners.......
After seeing the comment (thanks @TeCKis300) about connections loosening on the aluminum extensions, I reworked the terminal connections to eliminate the extenders.
Interested to see what you might have done. Others might find the solution useful. Either to improve the slee kit, or just to fit these center terminal batts.
I used this strategy
Markuson
SILVER Star
In my experience it’s been less about loosening, and more about fouling from road crud between layers—especially liquified winter road treatments (like after rain).
Definitely susceptible with the flat-on-flat surface sandwiching.
So... If you try to start the truck, and it seems either completely dead...or goes dark when attempting to crank...check/clean contacts and all surfaces within the extensions.
This happened two or three times over several years for me. I don’t live in a snow region, but each time, it was after wet road treatment, or nasty mud in the area after winter melt.
Here is a picture of the positive terminal, the cable is 2/0 crimped and soldered.
I have since taped up the exposed metal with electrical tape.
A solid copper pipe with the ends flattened and drilled would likely be better, but this is what I had on hand.
FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
I got wind of the issues with Slee's clamps so I just went with Mil Spec for my 2nd battery. If I ever re-do the starter battery I'll use these clamps or something like them so I don't have to mess with the factory harness at all.:
Ultimate Positive Battery Terminal - Merchandise
Went out with my friend @Knowbuddy who ended up buying this HJ61 from me a few months back. He’s done some great things with it.
New shoes, 275/70/18 Cooper AT3 XLT
What size Toyos?Went out with my friend @Knowbuddy who ended up buying this HJ61 from me a few months back. He’s done some great things with it.
After I added spacers, the new tires were rubbing on the front mud flaps, so I played around with it and tried a few different things...
1. Tried reshaping the mud flaps with heat. Used a heat gun until the plastic was nearly melted, but never got quite enough shape change to resolve the rubbing.
2. Removed the mud flaps. Didn't like the look without them. And this left things more exposed than I'd like.
3. Welded up some bolt-on brackets to hang aftermarket mud flaps off the body mount. Didn't like the look of this either.
4. Cut the mud flaps to remove the area where they were rubbing. Nah, didn't like this either.
5. Replaced mud flaps with Kydex and used heat to reshape them. Much better. No rubbing at all now.
I'll see how this holds up. Probably not as durable or forgiving as the originals, but the originals weren't going to work with all that rubbing.
1. Tried reshaping the mud flaps with heat. Used a heat gun until the plastic was nearly melted, but never got quite enough shape change to resolve the rubbing.
2. Removed the mud flaps. Didn't like the look without them. And this left things more exposed than I'd like.
3. Welded up some bolt-on brackets to hang aftermarket mud flaps off the body mount. Didn't like the look of this either.
4. Cut the mud flaps to remove the area where they were rubbing. Nah, didn't like this either.
5. Replaced mud flaps with Kydex and used heat to reshape them. Much better. No rubbing at all now.
I'll see how this holds up. Probably not as durable or forgiving as the originals, but the originals weren't going to work with all that rubbing.
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Put her on the scales. She's a bit of a lard...
Tires look great! Any decrease in mpg’s?
Picked up a set of these, like new on CL for $1500. Now I just need to have them installed.
