What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (12 Viewers)

[04UZJ100]

OEM rotors and pads on all 4 corners. No more warped rotor wobble.

Had to use a sledge hammer to get all 4 of them off. Light surface rust on each of the hubs. Applied grease to prevent it from happening in the future.

First set took 45 minutes. Then about 15 minutes a set after that. Ridiculous how much a dealer up charges for this type of work.

 

[silverhorse]

I finally have something to add lol
Got the rear hatch exit switch mod done ..kudos to you @cruiser Outfitters
also install the factory OEM rain guards fantastic quality! And finally installed the @TRAIL TAILOR bumper awesome quality as well

 

[tampacruiser95]

Hello, I’m considering getting these. I have the same color interior. Are you glad you went with the darker tough canvas, or do you think would like the gray ones better with the gray interior. In these pictures it doesn’t seem representative of how dark they are on Equipts new video of him installing them in his white 200 over black interior. Please give feedback on the color and your feelings on them.

I think the color matches perfectly with the interior. It's almost a grayish color to be honest.

 

[32cls6speedmt]

how many miles

OEM rotors and pads on all 4 corners. No more warped rotor wobble.

Had to use a sledge hammer to get all 4 of them off. Light surface rust on each of the hubs. Applied grease to prevent it from happening in the future.

First set took 45 minutes. Then about 15 minutes a set after that. Ridiculous how much a dealer up charges for this type of work.

View attachment 2267207

how many miles

 

[04UZJ100]

how many miles



how many miles

Rotors were original at 100k. Turned once. Pads had 30k miles on them and were about half worn but I wanted all fresh.

 

[grinchy]

Had to use a sledge hammer to get all 4 of them off.

Mine had the little easy out/off holes for a screw to thread into. Pretty sure they weren't the very first set of rotors at 210K though.

 

[04UZJ100]

Mine had the little easy out/off holes for a screw to thread into. Pretty sure they weren't the very first set of rotors at 210K though.

Yeah. Mine do too. A light hit with the sledge hammer is more satisfying though.

 

[bloc]

A sledge puts quite a bit of shock loading into the bearings though.

I like dead-blow hammers for this, or digging into the bolt bucket to just push them off.

 

[KLF]

A sledge puts quite a bit of shock loading into the bearings though.

I like dead-blow hammers for this, or digging into the bolt bucket to just push them off.

Agreed. Give a healthy soaking of Kroil through all the visible holes, then let them soak while you pull out the pins for the pads. Hang the caliper, a few whacks with a dead blow, then a few turns of a pair of M8 bolts from the bin. They pop right off. Sooo much easier than the days of having to remove the entire front hub!

 

[KLF]

Another thing to consider: while you have the rears apart, give all the e-brake parts, springs, clips, doodads, whatsahickeys... a good coating of lithium spray grease. Then, a good coating of something like Amsoil Metal Protector on those backing plates. They are uber-expensive to have replaced when they rust out.

 

[bloc]

Cleaned my drivers seatbelt which was getting a little stiff. I didn’t notice until the dealer replaced the front passenger as part of the recall.

Found this trick on the auto detailing subreddit. Use free & clear clothes washing detergent (so your ride doesn’t smell like whatever perfume they put in the stuff) and use a clamp or zip-tie at the top to hold the seatbelt extended.

Let it soak for a while, then scrub it, then close the door on it to hold it outside to rinse with a garden hose. Make sure you don’t catch the belt in the door latch mechanism.

Edit: make sure the belt dries out before letting it retract. It probably wouldn't hurt anything but water that close to the seatbelt mechanism isn't a great idea.

 

[gentimmy]

Installed Diode Dynamic fog light kit on my LX.. I’ll do a full write up a bit later.
View attachment 2266943

Looking forward to this writeup!

 

[tincan45]

Finally got around to working my @TrekboxX camp kitchen. Super compact, very functional. Will post more when it's all buttoned up.

 

[04UZJ100]

A sledge puts quite a bit of shock loading into the bearings though.

I like dead-blow hammers for this, or digging into the bolt bucket to just push them off.

I disagree. A light tap directly on the contact surface of the rotor directed inwards does nothing but peel the scale/rust away. I was not beating on the hub.

These were light hits - not like I was at the carnival/fair with the sledge hammer challenge.

 

[CharlieS]

I wasn't in your shoes, but as long as I back off the "star wheel" ebrake adjuster, a couple of bolts are all it takes to press/remove the disks. If you don't back off the adjusters, it is easy to damage the a rake hardware by pursuading it with a hammer.

 

[USMCVader]

Finally hung the Budbuilt ultimate sliders that had been sitting in my garage for months waiting for warmer weather. They are crazy heavy and well built...and a bit of a pain to put on. (First time dealing with lollipop nuts, BTW that whole process is completely unnatural.). Taco2Cruiser’s video from the Budbuilt website helped immensely, probably watched it five times before it was all done. Besides the sliders, the picture also shows the homemade three inch lift ramps I used for the front tires to match with the jack stands I used in the rear so that I had enough room to slide underneath. You really don’t need much room to hang them, but being able to tuck underneath helps.

 

[bloc]

I disagree. A light tap directly on the contact surface of the rotor directed inwards does nothing but peel the scale/rust away. I was not beating on the hub.

These were light hits - not like I was at the carnival/fair with the sledge hammer challenge.

Disagree all you want, any hit from any direction to a firmly positioned rotor sends force through the hub bearings. Enough to cause damage? I would hope not. But to know for sure you’d have to analyze the forces and I doubt you’ve done that homework.


And if you aren’t hitting it like at a carnival then where’s the joy in using a hammer? If all I’m allowed is a light tap I’d rather use the bolts.

 

[KLF]

When I got my RLC rear bumper it had a set of cheapo "Nilight" brand rear aux lights, they are a Rigid knock-off. Within a few days, they started showing moisture behind the lens, so I took them back off and completely sealed them up as best I could. One light eventually died after about a year. They are not even worth $20.

Started shopping for some Rigids, had these in my wishlist, then one day the price dropped down from $225 to $187 so I went for it.

Amazon product ASIN B074TRLVKB
Put them in a couple of weeks ago. WOW these lights are RIDICULOUSLY bright. Like too bright, like I'm gonna piss off anybody in the parking lot if I start to back up. The light is just diffused everywhere, which is what I wanted, but they are very glare-y, if you know what I mean. Oh boy. Started looking around on the Rigid website, discovered these:

Amazon product ASIN B00GVHQTV0
Installed today. This is a great solution and a great kit. Includes all SS hardware, gaskets, even instructions. Rigid makes good stuff.

 

[TacomaLC]

Finally hung the Budbuilt ultimate sliders that had been sitting in my garage for months waiting for warmer weather. They are crazy heavy and well built...and a bit of a pain to put on. (First time dealing with lollipop nuts, BTW that whole process is completely unnatural.). Taco2Cruiser’s video from the Budbuilt website helped immensely, probably watched it five times before it was all done. Besides the sliders, the picture also shows the homemade three inch lift ramps I used for the front tires to match with the jack stands I used in the rear so that I had enough room to slide underneath. You really don’t need much room to hang them, but being able to tuck underneath helps.

Couple questions for you: what's a lollipop nut?

And, how do these compare to the stock steps for entry/exit. do they stick out further? or get in the way?

Thanks

 

[KLF]

Couple questions for you: what's a lollipop nut?

The infamous "lollipop nut" is a nut welded to a piece of steel, with a "stick" on it bent in a fashion so you can fish it through the various holes on the inside of the frame, so you can get the bolts installed. Watch the video on the Budbuilt website, you'll see them featured (that's my truck in the video).

And, how do these compare to the stock steps for entry/exit. do they stick out further? or get in the way?

I think they do stick out further, but that's a good thing. I have no fear in parking lots now about door dings.