What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (19 Viewers)

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John’s weren’t turning freelyfor some reason. Perhaps the


He has the adjustment wrenches.
What he’s looking for is a proper scanner for preload.

I’m curious why there is so much resistance to hand turning the preload ring, if the pinch bolts are loosened and springs are compressed to remove pressure.

You're right. I misread it. For some reason I was thinking the compression/rebound tool.

The BP51 preload is already set for my setup for bumper/winch, so I didn't have to adjust it.
 
Just got back from two weeks on Chappaquiddick Island. We took the 200 out on the beach most every day. Still working to finish editing a video of beach driving.
 
I'm gathering parts to replace the weeping AHC shocks on my '08 570. The passenger rear and driver front are visibly wet. The other two seem okay but I'm going to do all 4.

  • Front shocks were $198 each
  • Rear shocks were $50 each
  • Fluid was $15 per liter
------------------
$584 with tax and shipping from Lexuspartsnow.com

For fun, I got a quote from my dealership:
  • Front shocks were $356 each
  • Labor for front was $698
  • Rear shocks were $103
  • Labor for rear was $553
  • Fluid was $15 per liter
----------------
$2464 with tax
 
Last edited:
I'm gathering parts to replace my weeping AHC shocks on my '08 570. The passenger rear and driver front are visibly wet. The other two seem okay but I'm going to do all 4.

  • Front shocks were $198 each
  • Rear shocks were $50 each
  • Fluid was $15 per liter
------------------
$584 with tax and shipping from Lexuspartsnow.com

For fun, I got a quote from my dealership:
  • Front shocks were $356 each
  • Labor for front was $698
  • Rear shocks were $103
  • Labor for rear was $553
  • Fluid was $15 per liter
----------------
$2464 with tax

Dude, thanks for doing the heavy lifting. This is going RIGHT in the file drawer,

After the Spacers and now this I may have to give you fractional ownership
 
I'm gathering parts to replace the weeping AHC shocks on my '08 570. The passenger rear and driver front are visibly wet. The other two seem okay but I'm going to do all 4.

  • Front shocks were $198 each
  • Rear shocks were $50 each
  • Fluid was $15 per liter
------------------
$584 with tax and shipping from Lexuspartsnow.com

For fun, I got a quote from my dealership:
  • Front shocks were $356 each
  • Labor for front was $698
  • Rear shocks were $103
  • Labor for rear was $553
  • Fluid was $15 per liter
----------------
$2464 with tax

Hope you post some pictures and brief process overview!!! How many miles on original system with what sort of use?
 
Hope you post some pictures and brief process overview!!! How many miles on original system with what sort of use?

For sure!

I bought the truck w/95k - and 100% of those miles where spent circling the mall. I've put 12k miles on it. While I haven't been to Moab or Ouray in it (yet), I drive it like a Toyota—lots of off-roading loaded with kids, dog, and gear.
 
For sure!

I bought the truck w/95k - and 100% of those miles where spent circling the mall. I've put 12k miles on it. While I haven't been to Moab or Ouray in it (yet), I drive it like a Toyota—lots of off-roading loaded with kids, dog, and gear.

Was the AHC serviced?
 
I'm gathering parts to replace the weeping AHC shocks on my '08 570. The passenger rear and driver front are visibly wet. The other two seem okay but I'm going to do all 4.

Can you post a pic of the fronts or one of the fronts?
 
Can you post a pic of the fronts or one of the fronts?

You can see the dark spot on the shock body:

HwQYmOM.jpg
 
Installed DRL module around fog lights.Bringing the thread to the top. As many in US I was as well frustrated that Toyota decided for US market to utilize headlights as DRL instead the horizontal strip like everywhere else in the world. I have been working with a supplier from China to get another module that goes in around fog lights (you can get them on ebay as well but much more expensive). There were some initial quality issues as one DRL didn't want to fire up but eventually got a replacement. I had to buy a wiring harness and as well a switch for inside the cabin. Here are some pictures how DRL system looks like. Personally I am really happy with the result and I hope they will work longterm. BTW they are dual LED (white and yellow) in case you want to use them as turn signals or as yellow DRL. I have not connected the yellow legs.
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Love that green!!

Picked my 200 up from the body shop. On my way home from LCDC I hit a self service car wash 30-50 miles outside Telluride to clean some of the dirt and mud off. I didn’t think I needed to give the foam brush head a hand job, silly me. There had to be some dirt in the brush head as I scratched my truck in a few places that could not have been scratched from our trail rides. The biggest and most annoying scratch intersected the front driver side wheel and steering wheel on top of the hood. Every time I walked up to the truck I saw it. I’ve had a handful of rock chips that I’ve wanted to get fixed (130k+ on the truck) on the hood for a while. The shop did great work for me last year so I took it back to them this year. They even did a quick cleaning of the interior (much needed after the LCDC trip).

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View attachment 1791309
 
I installed a Yakima roller boat loader on my Thule rack. It makes loading my canoe/kayak/small sailboat by myself super easy because I only have to lift the bow up on the roller, then push it on up. The Yakima roller slides fore and aft (in boat terms) to allow for opening the hatch without interference (though a boat on top interferes with the hatch anyway). There is no wind noise, even at 75 mph in a 40 mph wind, because I have a Thule fairing on the front rack bar.

Boat Loader.jpg
 
Finally took the tent off the cruiser. Was getting 14 mpg on highway and 9.5 city with it on top.

Had to adjust Tough Dogs 2 clicks to get back to softer stock ride after removal. Thank you again Jason. Ride is great even when cruiser is unloaded.

Also changed brakes pads all around, both diff and transfer case oil. EBC Heavy Duty pads and Amsoil severe gear oil. I highly recommend the pads they stop way better than stock on the DBA 4000xs rotors. I tow a lot and the set up is amazing. Brakes bite more and stops faster compared to stock.

20180922_183551.jpg
 
Flushed the brakes, changed the PCV valve, and replaced spark plugs at 130k miles. However, the PCV was gummed up and clogged, while half the spark plug tubes had significant oil in them.

The world wide webs tell me that oil in the spark plug tubes happens quite a bit on this engine, but I can't help but wonder if the failed PCV valve contributed by raising the pressure in the crankcase.

Either way, parts are on order for a valve cover gasket and tube seal job next weekend. Something to look forward to.:poop::poop::poop:
 
Flushed the brakes, changed the PCV valve, and replaced spark plugs at 130k miles. However, the PCV was gummed up and clogged, while half the spark plug tubes had significant oil in them.

The world wide webs tell me that oil in the spark plug tubes happens quite a bit on this engine, but I can't help but wonder if the failed PCV valve contributed by raising the pressure in the crankcase.

Either way, parts are on order for a valve cover gasket and tube seal job next weekend. Something to look forward to.:poop::poop::poop:

Take some pics! I assume the PCV was easy peasy?

The 2UZ has a reputation for slowly backing out the plugs. Were they all in there snug or did some feel quite loose?
 

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