What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (43 Viewers)

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Light bar and camp lights mounted and wiring harnesses built and run this weekend. I need to fabricate a bracket to hold my Blue Sea fuse block and figure out what leads to use to tap power for my switches, but I ran out of time, so for the moment I'm a total poser with pretty but non-functional lights.

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Looks good - what are trying to accomplish with your switches? I remember seeing you asking about it in another post but couldn't remember why it was a quandary for you
 
I have two Air On Board switches (Toyota Switches -Air On Board) - one for the front and one for the rear. They come with a 4-pin wiring connector, and I have a wiring harness that I purchased from Gamiviti (the wiring harness came with a simple stick-on push button switch which has 3 wires (black, white, and blue), but I want to use the AOB switch).
  1. I want to replace the simple push switch with the nicer AOB switch, and need to figure out how to convert the 3-way wiring in the harness to the 4-way that AOB uses. I'm thinking black=ground, white=+12V, and blue=relay, which maps to black, red, green respectively on the AOB switch. Maybe @nakman has a wiring diagram I can work from?
  2. I would like for the AOB switch backlight to be dimmable (using the blue lead), but I'm not sure what wire to tap in the vehicle
  3. I don't believe the wiring harness that Gamiviti supplied taps the headlights. Did you guys tap your high beams (so that the LEDs automatically shut off if the high beams are turned off?) Or are yours just wired to the battery and set up to operate any time?

Here's the AOB wiring diagram
IMG_0867.JPG
 
I've always run my lights independently, the lightbars I have now run through the acc switch so with the ignition off they don't work.

To have them dimmable I think you just need to tap into any light source or switch you have that dims when the lights are switched on
 
I've always run my lights independently, the lightbars I have now run through the acc switch so with the ignition off they don't work.

To have them dimmable I think you just need to tap into any light source or switch you have that dims when the lights are switched on

My (possibly unclear) question is what wires did you specifically tap into? I'm not dying to lie on my back reaching under the dash and testing wire after wire with a multimeter until I find ones that will work.
 
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Installed my WeatherTech mats today in all 3 rows, very happy with the fit and finish.
 
My (possibly unclear) question is what wires did you specifically tap into? I'm not dying to lie on my back reaching under the dash and testing wire after wire with a multimeter until I find ones that will work.

I'll have a look and get a picture when I'm by my cruiser again, I think it was tapped through one the fuses from the fusebox under the dash.

I didn't actually do the wiring myself, I helped out and watched everything as I've got 0 electrical skills aside from short circuiting stuff and making sparks fly
 
I'll have a look and get a picture when I'm by my cruiser again, I think it was tapped through one the fuses from the fusebox under the dash.

I didn't actually do the wiring myself, I helped out and watched everything as I've got 0 electrical skills aside from short circuiting stuff and making sparks fly
Thanks, that would be incredibly appreciated and would save me potentially hours of poking around
 
Have you ever used POR? You don't have to really grind anything- just prussure wash clean and apply over rust color- done. Amazing chemical reaction that stops rust dead. Just don't get it on you- also basically have to remove the layer of skin to remove it. For those hard to reach places- You can use small skinny "paint by number" brush taped to a paint stirrer. A little goes a long way.

I was actually going to do POR but don't really have much rust to justify it. I've just got a few spots along some seams that are creeping up. Using the dremel was to make sure I got all of it from under surround paint.

Don't get me wrong through, I do want to POR the entire underside of the truck. I just need to find a good amount of time and a lift. That seems like it will happen a few years down the road.
 
I have two Air On Board switches (Toyota Switches -Air On Board) - one for the front and one for the rear. They come with a 4-pin wiring connector, and I have a wiring harness that I purchased from Gamiviti (the wiring harness came with a simple stick-on push button switch which has 3 wires (black, white, and blue), but I want to use the AOB switch).
  1. I want to replace the simple push switch with the nicer AOB switch, and need to figure out how to convert the 3-way wiring in the harness to the 4-way that AOB uses. I'm thinking black=ground, white=+12V, and blue=relay, which maps to black, red, green respectively on the AOB switch. Maybe @nakman has a wiring diagram I can work from?
  2. I would like for the AOB switch backlight to be dimmable (using the blue lead), but I'm not sure what wire to tap in the vehicle
  3. I don't believe the wiring harness that Gamiviti supplied taps the headlights. Did you guys tap your high beams (so that the LEDs automatically shut off if the high beams are turned off?) Or are yours just wired to the battery and set up to operate any time?

Here's the AOB wiring diagram
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i wired to my blue sea fuse block. the lights operate independently when desired. good luck with your wire choices....should be nice if you can dim them. Just for reference my steering wheel pretty much blocks my view of the switches and what little light they do produce.
 
I ordered my roof rack from Gamiviti today
 
Thanks, that would be incredibly appreciated and would save me potentially hours of poking around

I'm not sure if this is a correct way, but this is how it is on my fuse box, I'll get someone to clean it up and have the wire pushed further in I must have yanked it out when fiddling and zip tying the scan gauge obd wire. It's on the tail light fuse but I think I should have it on the last 15amp which is for the cig lighter

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I'm not sure if this is a correct way, but this is how it is on my fuse box, I'll get someone to clean it up and have the wire pushed further in I must have yanked it out when fiddling and zip tying the scan gauge obd wire. It's on the tail light fuse but I think I should have it on the last 15amp which is for the cig lighter
Thanks. It looks like you're drawing power off the circuit directly. I'm going to wire to my blue sea fuse block. But I think I can use one of those accessory circuits with the relay so that the lights won't switch on if the engine is completely off.
 
That doesn't seem like a very good system.
 
That doesn't seem like a very good system.
Please explain as I've got no clue whatsoever when it comes to electricals.

There's a fused wire that runs from the battery to a relay which goes to a rocker switch. From what was done I thought the wire from the fuse box is meant to only give power to the led that lights up when the switch is toggled.
 
My biggest concern would be if the wire were actually bridging the two contact points that the fuse uses. This would allow the power to bypass the fuse, leaving that circuit unprotected.

Second concern would be that the connection is not secure and may fail, especially after many hours of vibration.
 
I finally fixed those wobbly side mirrors!
 
Big day! Installed Bosch wipers and fit the 34" tire underneath (until I get my bumper).
 

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