re_guderian
SILVER Star
and??? does it drive well? enjoy it!
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (106 Viewers)
- Thread starter SHUSH
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I think this may be factory applied.
you have to be close to your GVW,
Upon more inspection I found the epoxy they use to seal cracks after the car has been in body shop.
Yup, my car has been in an rear end accident before
Here is few pics, that’s sux
Are you sure that's not factory? Toyota uses a bunch of sealers in their manufacturing process.
well does your car has those sealers?
its right by the spare tire is, the is cross member there and has sealer there.
next place is behind the fender walls by bumper
The vehicle isn't with me to examine right now, but I can check those specific locations tonight. Throughout the vehicle it does have seam sealer that looks like that. It resembles the 'stacked dimes' look of a TIG weld, but has a semi-soft feel to it.
From Owner's Manual. Now if you can get your un-geared 35's to move and stop that kind of weight is something else.
"The maximum gross trailer weight
(trailer weight plus cargo weight)
must never exceed 2948 kg
(6500 lb.). If towing a trailer and
cargo weighing over 907 kg
(2000 lb.), it is necessary to use a
sway control device with sufficient
capacity. The combination of the
gross trailer weight added to the
total weight of the vehicle, occupants
and vehicle cargo must never
exceed a total of 5625 kg
(12400 lb.). Exceeding the maximum
weight of the trailer, the vehicle, or
the vehicle and trailer combination,
can cause an accident resulting in
serious personal injuries."
So essentially what I can gather from that, is my truck will be unsafe to drive? I'll be towing a track car in a closed trailer around the country. The car and trailer is 6800lbs. A tow rig isn't in the cards, and the Q5 is rated at 4400lbs.
What will fail first if I pull a load that is to heavy?
Thanks for the info as well!
Bomar
SILVER Star
Got the same one..
Trying to figure out whether this was an intentional gash or caused by road hazard... Discovered it in Park City... Drove it another 400 miles waiting for it to pop.
Taking it to BigO this afternoon... Will keep it as the spare.
Why would someone slash the thread and not the sidewall...?
Taking it to BigO this afternoon... Will keep it as the spare.
Why would someone slash the thread and not the sidewall...?
Even a good Solingen made knife would have a tuff time cutting through the tread. It's just too much rubber..
That's a defect or a road hazard, I'm almost positive. It would take an especially strong person to rip that long a gash in that part of the tire..
That's a defect or a road hazard, I'm almost positive. It would take an especially strong person to rip that long a gash in that part of the tire..
If you're at factory gearing it will put the hurt on your trans with 35's. That's a lot to ask IMO. You're probably OK on the braking as I'm guessing the trailer will be stopping harder than the truck will. Might be good excuse to get some 4.88s on it?
Other than that, while not ideal I'm sure it will work. Hills might be a problem, but you can always downshift. What I'd worry about more is the liability if you were knowingly towing over rated load and got into an accident. Bad juju my friend.
Any way you could move 300 lbs from trailer to truck? Spares? Tools?
When does Nick NOT downshift??
I finally got around to pulling out the 3rd row seat belts and moved my subwoofer amp into the PS wall in the small cabinet thingy. I couldn't really think of a good way to mount it so I kind of just went at the thing with a saw and it's a tight fit with the amp and wires and still closes up with good ventilation so it works for me! I also recently replaced my HVAC lights with blue LEDs, accidentally busted the ignition bulb though so I need to figure out how to pull that bulb out now...
If you're towing a race car around the country, put 31s on.
That's probably the best advise. Go back to stock all seasons and rotate out for trail.
hoser
SILVER Star
If you can find an LT tire in the 31" that would be even better.
Nick,
It's a question of handling more than absolute fail. The closer the trailer weight gets to the weight of the vehicle the more dicey it can get. Imaging rounding a curve and hitting the breaks, does the rig slow down as intended or does it jack-knife and drag you over the cliff? Nobody knows, but the bigger the imbalance, the more the trailer drives you, and the less you drive the trailer.
I don't think you're that far from safe but I think going to the smaller rubber would help a lot, stiffer, upgraded suspension should help as well.
Be sure to post up that you're not going to do it for liabilities sake as well, you know just to be on the record. Then have fun not towing a track car to top notch tracks all over the country.
It's a question of handling more than absolute fail. The closer the trailer weight gets to the weight of the vehicle the more dicey it can get. Imaging rounding a curve and hitting the breaks, does the rig slow down as intended or does it jack-knife and drag you over the cliff? Nobody knows, but the bigger the imbalance, the more the trailer drives you, and the less you drive the trailer.
I don't think you're that far from safe but I think going to the smaller rubber would help a lot, stiffer, upgraded suspension should help as well.
Be sure to post up that you're not going to do it for liabilities sake as well, you know just to be on the record. Then have fun not towing a track car to top notch tracks all over the country.
No: K = 4x4 and C = 2x4. The Blazers are 5, 1/2 ton is 10 (15 for GMC), 3/4 ton is 20 (25 for GMC) and 1 ton is 30 (35 for GMC).
Make sure that you have trailer brakes and I would spend the $100 on AirLift bags... Make sure to keep it out of OD on anything that resembles a hill and drive slow. You will be fine.
