What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (51 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

urban dictionary

dorkel
1. a mixture of dork and snorkel; referring to someone as weird and/ or out-of-the-ordinary in a friendly and jesting way


so UZJ mounted a dork with a snorkel on the side of his truck.....im gonna say the first tree/rock will take him back off.
 
Installed new shocks

My shocks came and and went on. I switched out my coils at the same time and remedied the passenger side lean.
DSC_1619.jpg
DSC_1641.jpg
DSC_1647.jpg
 
Dobie....what gear is that? any tips on install...I have an IM 2 inch in the mail that I will be installing.

looks good.
 
My shocks came and and went on. I switched out my coils at the same time and remedied the passenger side lean.

Remote reservoir shocks - veeery nice. Now you'll need to carry a nitrogen bottle, reg, and gauge to set pressures on the trail. ;)
 
Dobie....what gear is that? any tips on install...I have an IM 2 inch in the mail that I will be installing.

looks good.

The shocks are Slee reservoir shocks and the coils are OME 860's. I swapped the 863's for the 860.

I used a great tech thread for the coils and springs on mud. The front and rear shock and coil install is pretty straight forward. I followed these with the exception of undoing the sway bar at the frame. I left the frame mount attached and disconnected the sway bar via a single 12 mm bolt(near the frame mount where the bushings are). I did this before the truck was jacked and supported so there was no force on the sway bar.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series...emove-install-rear-shocks-springs-uzj100.html

The best solution for the shocks is this wrench RobRed. (THANKS ROB!) told me to get. I ordered mine on the net. The shocks literally took 10 minutes a piece to remove. I don't have any rust though so others may not be so lucky. Others talk about cutting holes in the floor board to access the top rear shock bolt but that may not be necessary in my opinion. It would have taken me longer to measure, cut the holes, and the undo the bolt...
DSC_1620.jpg
DSC_1634.jpg
DSC_1617.jpg
 
So the Slee shocks arrived. Nice. What kind of love did the 80 get?

Sent from my iPad 2 using IH8MUD

The 80 is still getting preventive maintenance lol....
 
APKhaos said:
Remote reservoir shocks - veeery nice. Now you'll need to carry a nitrogen bottle, reg, and gauge to set pressures on the trail. ;)

Even if that was the case, after taking these out just now i would take the trade off. Night and day difference between OME and Slee. Can't wait to test these out for real. Makes the truck feel like a different vehicle.
 
Even if that was the case, after taking these out just now i would take the trade off. Night and day difference between OME and Slee. Can't wait to test these out for real. Makes the truck feel like a different vehicle.

Agreed. I was just messing with you. Set the res pressure to suit the load [Slee should have guidelines on that] and then tweak the bump & rebound settings for perfection. There's a reason remote res shocks are illegal in many stock-class race series. They ARE an unfair advantage :D
 
Excellent, thanks for the intel.

The shocks are Slee reservoir shocks and the coils are OME 860's. I swapped the 863's for the 860.

I used a great tech thread for the coils and springs on mud. The front and rear shock and coil install is pretty straight forward. I followed these with the exception of undoing the sway bar at the frame. I left the frame mount attached and disconnected the sway bar via a single 12 mm bolt(near the frame mount where the bushings are). I did this before the truck was jacked and supported so there was no force on the sway bar.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series...emove-install-rear-shocks-springs-uzj100.html

The best solution for the shocks is this wrench RobRed. (THANKS ROB!) told me to get. I ordered mine on the net. The shocks literally took 10 minutes a piece to remove. I don't have any rust though so others may not be so lucky. Others talk about cutting holes in the floor board to access the top rear shock bolt but that may not be necessary in my opinion. It would have taken me longer to measure, cut the holes, and the undo the bolt...
 
Texus said:
WTF is a dorkel?

I did a magnaflow stainless muffler...nice, smooth low rumble... headers next due to "the crack"

Dorkel= snorkel. I just welded a new magnaflow. Which one did go install?
 
The best solution for the shocks is this wrench RobRed. (THANKS ROB!) told me to get. I ordered mine on the net.

Very nice job and nice looking shocks. Would you mind posting a link to where you got the wrench? I'm nearing the EOL of my OME shocks and the OE shocks were a PITA.
 
staggrlee said:
Very nice job and nice looking shocks. Would you mind posting a link to where you got the wrench? I'm nearing the EOL of my OME shocks and the OE shocks were a PITA.

PM sent
 
Had some work done to fix my rear bolts to hold my large a$$ on right

ForumRunner_20120825_080842.jpg



ForumRunner_20120825_080903.jpg
ForumRunner_20120825_080842.jpg
ForumRunner_20120825_080903.jpg
 
All better and ready for action

ForumRunner_20120825_081326.jpg



ForumRunner_20120825_081334.jpg
ForumRunner_20120825_081326.jpg
ForumRunner_20120825_081334.jpg
 
Washed it, fixed some wiring, fixed the window regulator on passenger door, currently drying front seat belts and hoping when reinstalled they retract a little better.
 
Removed the fender flares. Worked with a crud removing wheel to get the big stuff. There was a real thin line around all four fenders and it was hard as a rock. Used a clay bar for hours and hours and that finished it up. Then used a clay bar on the whole thing and waxed real good. Slick as owl droppings and almost looks like new.
 
Wired up my ARB fogs, oil change, and found a gaping tear in the PS inboard CV boot. Suck.

Matticus, I'll be doing the same job (sans front brakes, for now) starting next weekend. Parts on order from Beno. I'll also be doing the swaybar bushings and end links.
 
I now hate two things in life. Rust, AND Cone Washers.

Yup, those are fun! My advice to others tackling this, get a brass hammer and swing hard hitting the studs head on. Leave the nuts threaded on (but loose of course). It's very hard to damage the threads with a brass hammer but if you manage the nuts will fix it when removing.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom