What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (95 Viewers)

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The funnest stuff today - driver's side exhaust manifold! Took me all of 6 hours. Removed motor mount (both parts) (replaced with new). That made it a lot easier. Totally rust free truck was nice. No broken bolts or nuts. Probably could have done it in 5 if I had realized that the new manifold didn't have the exhaust pipe studs in it...and I spent at least 15 mins trying to disconnect the O2 sensor. VVTi and AHC. Yay! But no more clicking. Have the passenger as well, but I'll hold off. No special tools needed, but I have a pretty good assortment.
I just did this on our 2003 Sequoia this weekend (both sides). Not a ton of fun, but probably marginally easier than on a 100 series.

I hadn't originally planned on doing exhaust manifolds (though, had them sitting on the shelf), but as it turns out, by the time you're able to get the engine isolators/mounts off of a Sequoia the manifolds are right there. Unlike a 100 where you're able to swap the engine mounts without taking the bracket off that goes between the isolator/mount (the part we swap out) and the actual engine block, you have to take that whole bracket assembly off of the engine block itself to swap out the isolator on a first gen Sequoia, at least on the passanger side.
 
The funnest stuff today - driver's side exhaust manifold! Took me all of 6 hours. Removed motor mount (both parts) (replaced with new). That made it a lot easier. Totally rust free truck was nice. No broken bolts or nuts. Probably could have done it in 5 if I had realized that the new manifold didn't have the exhaust pipe studs in it...and I spent at least 15 mins trying to disconnect the O2 sensor. VVTi and AHC. Yay! But no more clicking. Have the passenger as well, but I'll hold off. No special tools needed, but I have a pretty good assortment.
I want to replace both my manifolds but I’m scared to death the studs will break. My truck is rust free but the studs/nuts look awfully crusty.
 
Swapped Dobinsons springs during a shop day at @OTRAMM to go up to the 440lbs constant. Also got some help clocking my winch.

…then latter that week literally blew my steering rack. Threads separated. Anyone ever see that before??

Unclear if it was reman or by whom but did have Toyota stampings. Other than putting some new boots on it a few years ago and a flush I hadn’t touched it since I’ve owned the truck (6 years)
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I want to replace both my manifolds but I’m scared to death the studs will break. My truck is rust free but the studs/nuts look awfully crusty.
Soak those babies a few times the week before with Kroil or similar. I definitely felt lucky. I had new studs on hand just in case, but didn't use them.
 
Holy s***! I tackled the dreaded steering rack job on a rusty old Michigan Cruiser! What a job! Not bad over all, but man, between the return line seized in the rack and the steering shaft seized at the rack, there was a lot of extra time handling those, 10-12 hour estimated completion. Sawzall for the line as I had new, and removed the rack shaft attached. New went in pretty easy, got it all buttoned up… one or so spline off 🤦🏼‍♂️ manageable for now. Fix it next weekend…
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Well, it wasn’t every single other steering component possible... But at least everything is new I suppose 🤦🏼‍♂️
Before the OEM only crowd comes for me, yes I know. My girl is not getting cleaner, only rustier, but I’ve accepted that and battle it where winnable. And after 8 years of ownership at $4500 purchase price, everything from here out is aftermarket (non-engine related) until she croaks. If the rack goes in 2 years or even a year, it’s just a reason to finally say goodbye.
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I need to replace my rack before I drop in the engine, which brand did you get and how much? Thanks for sharing.
 
I need to replace my rack before I drop in the engine, which brand did you get and how much? Thanks for sharing.
I rolled the dice. As you can see the old girl is rusty, so justifying a $700 part for a truck that might not be on the road in 2-4 years, just didn’t make sense. The dice roll paid off from what I have found. I grabbed the “Wholesale private label” $186 rack from RockAuto. Turned out to be (from what I can tell) a $400 API Automotive rack. Does that mean it’s better than a $186 rack? I don’t know, but it looked pretty nice and feels good thus far.
 
Moab trip # 15? I can't even keep track any more.

Had a great time with my brother bringing his 80 along.

We hit Hotel Rock, Comb's Descent, Porcupine Trail, Hell's, Fin's, Uranium Arch and Doug's Point. I so wish there was a way to squeeze just a bit more lift on the front IFS on our 100's. I'm running SPC upper control arms and all that you can do. AFtermarket T-bars are cranked but not so much that ride suffers. It gets the job done with a front locker and CDL but lots of front bumper paint and metal is left out there on the big trails. Could go high-clearance front bumper I suppose. I've got a locked 80 but it's too darn mint and stock to tear up out on the trails. I'd love an SAS swap but don't feel it's necessary for what I do. Tempting though!

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Moab trip # 15? I can't even keep track any more.

Had a great time with my brother bringing his 80 along.

We hit Hotel Rock, Comb's Descent, Porcupine Trail, Hell's, Fin's, Uranium Arch and Doug's Point. I so wish there was a way to squeeze just a bit more lift on the front IFS on our 100's. I'm running SPC upper control arms and all that you can do. AFtermarket T-bars are cranked but not so much that ride suffers. It gets the job done with a front locker and CDL but lots of front bumper paint and metal is left out there on the big trails. Could go high-clearance front bumper I suppose. I've got a locked 80 but it's too darn mint and stock to tear up out on the trails. I'd love an SAS swap but don't feel it's necessary for what I do. Tempting though!

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Obligatory "DO IT" :rofl:
 

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