What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (21 Viewers)

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Just did the AHC shock spacers, relocated the eye level of the rear sensor link using an aluminum bracket and a 30mm coil spring spacer from Ironman. Also decreased the tension on the TB bolts to get back to factory pressures in front.
For those who still have an aftermarket diff drop or those who removed them, what are your thoughts and first hand experience? Not sure if I should be worried because of a now more aggressive CV angle.

If you have increased the normal right height, I would definitely install the front diff drop bracket.

Also, looking at your photo of the AHC spacers, looks like the fronts are missing a bolt to prevent the spacer bracket from camming inboard.

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Just did the AHC shock spacers, relocated the eye level of the rear sensor link using an aluminum bracket and a 30mm coil spring spacer from Ironman. Also decreased the tension on the TB bolts to get back to factory pressures in front.
For those who still have an aftermarket diff drop or those who removed them, what are your thoughts and first hand experience? Not sure if I should be worried because of a now more aggressive CV angle.
Regarding the AHC strut spacers…

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If you do the AHC strut spacers, be sure to check for CV boot clearance to the strut spacers brackets. Mine would almost touch the CV boot at full lock, on both the left and right side fronts…

So, at the point of contact, I shaved down the shock extension brackets with a flap disc, and welded through to fuse and laminate the 2 layers of steel in the bracket. Sadly, in this process, I lost the zinc plating on the shock extension bracket in that location, so I ended up prime and painting them black.

In the photo, you can see where I changed the radius in the lower right corner of the shock extension bracket. I now have 4mm clearance to the CV boot at full lock.
 
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Just did the AHC shock spacers, relocated the eye level of the rear sensor link using an aluminum bracket and a 30mm coil spring spacer from Ironman. Also decreased the tension on the TB bolts to get back to factory pressures in front.
For those who still have an aftermarket diff drop or those who removed them, what are your thoughts and first hand experience? Not sure if I should be worried because of a now more aggressive CV angle.
If you’re happy with the height you’re at and you’ve gotten your AHC all adjusted, I’d definitely recommend a diff drop. That’s a lot of angle on your CVs and you’re going to be tearing boots and/or throwing grease out every time you turn around even with OE axles and boots. Ask me how I know…
 
Added a Quad Lock to the dash. Pretty sweet, simple little mount. I can’t recall who said they had one on here recently, but thanks! I bought it after reading your recommendation!
 
Regarding the AHC strut spacers…

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If you do the AHC strut spacers, be sure to check for CV boot clearance to the strut spacers brackets. Mine would almost touch the CV boot at full lock, on both the left and right side fronts…

So, at the point of contact, I shaved down the shock extension brackets with a flap disc, and welded through to fuse and laminate the 2 layers of steel in the bracket. Sadly, in this process, I lost the zinc plating on the shock extension bracket in that location, so I ended up prime and painting them black.

In the photo, you can see where I changed the radius in the lower right corner of the shock extension bracket. I now have 4mm clearance to the CV boot at full lock.
Yes that teflon locking nut for the lower mounting bolt of the spacer sure is close to the boot, I will have to inspect this today. And that third securing bolt will definitely be installed, thanks for the heads up I appreciate it.
If you’re happy with the height you’re at and you’ve gotten your AHC all adjusted, I’d definitely recommend a diff drop. That’s a lot of angle on your CVs and you’re going to be tearing boots and/or throwing grease out every time you turn around even with OE axles and boots. Ask me how I know…
Thank you, I know they may all look the same but what's everyone using for the diff drop bracket? I have the Dissent skid plate, is that going to be an issue?
 
Yes that teflon locking nut for the lower mounting bolt of the spacer sure is close to the boot, I will have to inspect this today. And that third securing bolt will definitely be installed, thanks for the heads up I appreciate it.

Thank you, I know they may all look the same but what's everyone using for the diff drop bracket? I have the Dissent skid plate, is that going to be an issue?

I’m using a TT drop bracket, works perfectly with my Dissent skids.
 
Thanks! It's a nice spot for sure - hope you guys hit La Choza on your trips here! Durango is a great spot too, love the MTB riding up there and hoping to make another trip up next summer.
We hit La Choza frequently, it’s the sister restaurant to The Shed. We love it. Our favorite is Cafe Pasquale for breakfast.
 
Yes that teflon locking nut for the lower mounting bolt of the spacer sure is close to the boot, I will have to inspect this today. And that third securing bolt will definitely be installed, thanks for the heads up I appreciate it.

Thank you, I know they may all look the same but what's everyone using for the diff drop bracket? I have the Dissent skid plate, is that going to be an issue?

i heard a rumor a while ago that there are like three manufactures for all the diff drops so there really isn’t much variance between any of them.
 
what's everyone using for the diff drop bracket?
If price is a concern, search in eBay. There r a couple of good options from ausi, cheaper including shipping to USA.

But keep in mind, adding a diff drop is loosing the clearance you've gain by lifting. Overall gain is a not much apart from the looks. Best is the middle ground, 1.5 inch lift on front and no diff drop. I'm running this configuration for few years without any issues (2 trucks). Including off-road. Also, there are compromises on driving and handling with a lift, specifically from a front end lift.
 
Wrapped up the 40 gallon replacement tank today. Took a week to do working on and off as time allowed. Everything was replaced, new fuel pump, sending unit, fuel pump bracket, cushion, filter and hoses. My only complaint are the instructions and information provided. The instructions cover 98-02, but fail to mention that there are differences in the 03-04 fuel pump brackets and the routing of the rollover valve. If you are looking into this tank for your 03-04 LC/LX, expect to modify the plate that holds down the fuel pump bracket and more fuel line will be required. Aside from that, really looking forward to more driving and less fuel stops!

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Rear brake job with a few surprises...I was doing the brakes because a bad grinding noise started that I assumed was worn pads. It was really bad though with constant drag on the brakes it felt like so I thought it might be bad. Was surprised to find this. Caliper pictured is exactly how it was when I pulled it out...anybody spot what's missing?? PO had said he had done a pad change recently so it seems he wasn't the best mechanic. Oh and the other side the rear axle seal is leaking...I'll have to get that done another day.
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Wow, never seen a missing pad before!

I just changed the oil, new air filter, and lubed the drive shaft. In the process I removed the Fumoto valve I had installed a year or two ago. It began leaking and I couldn’t get it to stop. Back to a regular drain plug now, no leaks.
 
Rear brake job with a few surprises...I was doing the brakes because a bad grinding noise started that I assumed was worn pads. It was really bad though with constant drag on the brakes it felt like so I thought it might be bad. Was surprised to find this. Caliper pictured is exactly how it was when I pulled it out...anybody spot what's missing?? PO had said he had done a pad change recently so it seems he wasn't the best mechanic. Oh and the other side the rear axle seal is leaking...I'll have to get that done another day. View attachment 3583982View attachment 3583983View attachment 3583979

All the clips that hold the pad in? Terrible luck, man. Pop your VIN into partsouq.com and browse the diagrams to compare what you have vs. what is long gone. IIRC Toyota sell it as one brake hardware kit.
 
Wow, never seen a missing pad before!

I just changed the oil, new air filter, and lubed the drive shaft. In the process I removed the Fumoto valve I had installed a year or two ago. It began leaking and I couldn’t get it to stop. Back to a regular drain plug now, no leaks.
What was wrong with the valve? I have one sitting on the shelf that I plan on installing in the next month.
 
What was wrong with the valve? I have one sitting on the shelf that I plan on installing in the next month.
I don’t know. It worked fine for a while, but after a couple oil changes it began to leak. I tried retightening it, but no luck. A buddy of mine had the same experience.

I will say when it worked it was nice, but drained much more slowly.
 
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Wrapped up the 40 gallon replacement tank today. Took a week to do working on and off as time allowed. Everything was replaced, new fuel pump, sending unit, fuel pump bracket, cushion, filter and hoses. My only complaint are the instructions and information provided. The instructions cover 98-02, but fail to mention that there are differences in the 03-04 fuel pump brackets and the routing of the rollover valve. If you are looking into this tank for your 03-04 LC/LX, expect to modify the plate that holds down the fuel pump bracket and more fuel line will be required. Aside from that, really looking forward to more driving and less fuel stops!

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Report back after a few tanks and let us know if you experience any fuel smells or any shortcomings to the modifications used to make it fit the later models
 
Tore apart the right front to replace my torn inner CV boot and worn lower ball joint. While under the truck I found a nail in my LR tire. Luckily it went in sideways and into the larger tread block and didn't puncture the tire. While replacing the boot I did the stretch mod so hopefully it helps prevent it from ripping prematurely, I also used different one time clamps for the inner boot because the OE ones are known for leaking. Hopefully later this next week I'll be able to install my poly rack bushings then it will finally be ready for an alignment.

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