What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (42 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

After 7 weeks, we got the car back from Bullet Supercharging, after being diagnosed with a cracked piston.

Screenshot_2023-07-19-17-13-17-27_e307a3f9df9f380ebaf106e1dc980bb6.jpg

0.20 oversized cast pistons, ACL bearings throughout, 4340 forged steel H beam conrods with 7/16 rod bolts, and refinished factory steel crank.

Had the extra strengthening done in preparation for Supercharging at a later date. Guys were great to deal with and have done a super job.

Now time to run it in and put some miles on it.
 
Last edited:
Over the weekend, the truck started making this groaning sound and noticed that my voltage readings would fluctuate on throttle and drop on idle. So ordered a new Denso alternator and helped get it installed today. Did it by dropping it out from the bottom and got it back in the same way. It was a bit fiddley but we managed to get the new one in its new rest place. Put everything back together and fired it up to silence, just the sweet sweet sound of the V8. Voltage holding steady and we're good to go. I tell you having access to a lift made life SOOO much easier especially when trying to get the alternator out and back in. Also having my wife as the shop operations manager and access to ordering parts at their cost is extremely nice. $160 -$80 core charge so the new one only cost us $80 can't beat that!

Alternator appears to be the original one from 2004, and at 182k miles it's served a good life.

View attachment 3376184
you can replace the brush and keep it as a spare
 
I did the timing belt and water pump with the Aisin kit. Unbelievable to me that I completed the job on my own without mistakes. OTRAMM I cannot thank you enough.

tempImageQhaAY8.png


tempImageaN2fsX.png


tempImageB7n6jm.png


tempImageZL0Xr9.png
 
Last edited:
Finally got around to replacing this corroded (and I think leaking) transmission fluid hose.


IMG_0647.jpeg

IMG_0660.jpeg


Cooler lower inlet:
IMG_0655.jpeg


The cooler had some odd corrosion on the bottom inlet. I’m assuming it’s just from sitting for a while? Between the corroded hose and this inlet, it makes me think there could have been water in those lines.

Didn’t take the best after photo but it’s all in there and buttoned up

IMG_0663.jpeg



If you're planning on replacing the same part, you'll want to remove the Passenger side headlight, unplug the RH airbag sensor, rotate one of the horns out of the way, and the 2 bolts holding the power steering lines. Once they're out of the way, you can get in there with some extensions to remove the hose tube assembly. I also got new clamps, the 2 bolts, and 2 hoses that attach to the cooler. Parts below. Went with McGeorge for everything, PartSouq didn't have the tube assembly in stock.

32906-60150 Tube Assembly $104.25 x1
90445-17097 Hose $22.42 x1
90445-17103 Outlet Hose $13.51 x1
90467-A0012 Transmission Oil Cooler Line Clamp $2.62 ea, x6 $15.72
91611-B0614 ABS Sensor Wire Bolt $1.08 ea, x2 $2.16
 
Last edited:
View attachment 3378380
View attachment 3378382

Finally got around to replacing this corroded (and I think leaking) transmission fluid hose.

View attachment 3378381

The cooler had some odd corrosion on the bottom inlet. I’m assuming it’s just from sitting for a while? Between the corroded hose and this inlet, it makes me think there could have been water in those lines.

Didn’t take the best after photo but it’s all in there and buttoned up

View attachment 3378386


If you're planning on replacing the same part, you'll want to remove the Passenger side headlight, rotate one of the horns out of the way, and the 2 bolts holding the power steering lines. Once they're out of the way, you can get in there with some extensions to remove the hose tube assembly. I also got new clamps, the 2 bolts, and 2 hoses that attach to the cooler. Parts below. Went with McGeorge for everything, PartSouq didn't have the tube assembly in stock.

32906-60150 Tube Assembly $104.25 x1
90445-17097 Hose $22.42 x1
90445-17103 Outlet Hose $13.51 x1
90467-A0012 Transmission Oil Cooler Line Clamp $2.62 ea, x6 $15.72
91611-B0614 ABS Sensor Wire Bolt $1.08 ea, x2 $2.16
Thanks for sharing. I think pre-2003 trucks didn't get this extra cooler and that might cause the power steering fluid to degrade due to heat, ultimately causing the steering racks seals to fail!
 
Thanks for sharing. I think pre-2003 trucks didn't get this extra cooler and that might cause the power steering fluid to degrade due to heat, ultimately causing the steering racks seals to fail!
Didn't know that. So pre 03 got the condenser fan, but no extra power steering hose cooling "loop".

Those hoses were definitely in the way for this job, though!
 
Yup @ClassyJalopy is correct. Pre 03 units do not have the power steering cooling loop shown below which mounts in front of the radiator.

Power Steering Diagram.png


Power Steering Cooler.png


If anyone is further curious, the only differences between the Pre 03/Post 03 power steering assemblies are different part numbers for the rack, the power steering pump, and the hoses that either connect to the loop or go directly to the reservoir. Having both Pre and Post power steering pumps on the bench last year there were some slight differences in the construction and the body shape of the pump, but both appeared to be able to bolt up with no issue. Pre 03 shown on left, Post 03 shown on right:

IMG_0034.jpg


I could not find any information on the operating parameters of the pumps, so I stayed with the same pump as designed for my Pre 03 rack since it was brand new. I wanted to add the cooler loop, but was concerned the Post 03 pump might operate at a higher pressure to pair with the Post 03 rack and to account for the added cooler loop. It would probably be fine to add the cooler inline with the system, I just wanted to stay more OEM.
 
Gotta order the new swing out from 1Up but I’m just not in the mood to drop $509 right now.

^^^ That lasted about two hours.
Got the new swing arm in today and gave it a trial fit.
IMG_4106.jpeg

First fit is very promising. It’s nearly bottomed out to the crossmember so the next step will be cutting a 2” square hole to let the shank pass through and tighten up the fit to the body. Ground clearance over my previous combo (RakAttach 1.0 & std hitch) is massively improved.
My biggest concern was the tailgate clearing the swing pin. Luckily we are good to go there. 1/2” body lift definitely helped some.
IMG_4107.jpeg
 
^^^ That lasted about two hours.
Got the new swing arm in today and gave it a trial fit.
View attachment 3379070
First fit is very promising. It’s nearly bottomed out to the crossmember so the next step will be cutting a 2” square hole to let the shank pass through and tighten up the fit to the body. Ground clearance over my previous combo (RakAttach 1.0 & std hitch) is massively improved.
My biggest concern was the tailgate clearing the swing pin. Luckily we are good to go there. 1/2” body lift definitely helped some.
I may have missed it, but is that the medium or large version?
 
Cold spell of weather down here in NZ so nice to spend it in the shop!! Finally got around to getting the switches wired up in the panel Ben 3D printed for me, the panel itself has been in place but I never got around to running the wires etc. Also cut some holes and flush mounted some day time runners in the bullbar.

View attachment 3363177

View attachment 3363178

View attachment 3363179
Is that just marine carpet on your dash? How do you like it? Been kicking around the idea of doing something similar
 
^^^ That lasted about two hours.
Got the new swing arm in today and gave it a trial fit.
View attachment 3379070
First fit is very promising. It’s nearly bottomed out to the crossmember so the next step will be cutting a 2” square hole to let the shank pass through and tighten up the fit to the body. Ground clearance over my previous combo (RakAttach 1.0 & std hitch) is massively improved.
My biggest concern was the tailgate clearing the swing pin. Luckily we are good to go there. 1/2” body lift definitely helped some.
View attachment 3379080
Does that just pivot on a bolt? Doesnt seem very robust?
 
If that is a cast receiver, it’s good for a bike rack… but PLEASE do not try to tow ANY kind of trailer with it…

No matter what the seller stated, I would not trust a casting to withstand the high moment of inertia that towing a trailer will impart to the casting.

Please do not tow with that.

1689972082522.jpeg
 
Does that just pivot on a bolt? Doesnt seem very robust?

It's extremely robust.

Another question, is that designed to towa trailer behind it? 😬

No.

If that is a cast receiver, it’s good for a bike rack… but PLEASE do not try to tow ANY kind of trailer with it…

No matter what the seller stated, I would not trust a casting to withstand the high moment of inertia that towing a trailer will impart to the casting.

Please do not tow with that.

View attachment 3379676

I have a Tundra for tow duties. A bike rack will live on here 100% of the time. The cast receiver is only going to serve as a test mule, I'm going to make my own welded unit once I figure out the correct dimensions.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom