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Those are 18s from a 200. Bought used from a guy a couple years ago. Takes a spacer because the internal bore is slightly smaller than the 100 front hub/ won’t clear the hub bolts, but I had spaced the prior 16s out anyway. They do rub slightly at full lock with these particular tires, but I haven’t bashed down pinch welds or removed/revised the washer fluid reservoir cover yet either. That should rectify.
The pointy tipped fastener is a body bolt… possibly to a steering lines clamp???
Luckily it was just the return line hose. Quick trip to O'Reilly, got a few feet of transmission cooler hose, switched the lines, and good to go. I think I am all leak free at this point. By far the most difficult and drawn out maintenance project I've done to date, but plenty of new skills acquired!What type of sealant did you use to complete this project?For those of you up here in the PNW with me, you'll be able to relate to the recent fun of the "atmospheric river" we've been experiencing, AKA days on end of dumping rain. I noticed a drip to the interior from both front corners of my sunroof that wasn't the seal to the truck body. It turned out to be the inner seal bonded to the glass itself. Water gets between the inner rubber and the glass and runs down into the front plastic bezel piece. Once enough water has built up there, it drips out the seam where the front and side interior trim bezels meet.
I was all ready to pull the trigger on a new glass as you can't get this rubber separate, but it looks like Mr. T wants $750 MSRP for one now, ouch! I'm going to try a bit of sealant first and see if that'll be enough to do it. If not, it looks like an early xmas gift for the cruiser.
Separation was the worst at the front center where the two pieces of this rubber meet. My driveway is level and with the forward rake of the suspension, this is always sitting underwater whenever it rains.
The rear join is just starting to separate, but not yet as bad as the front.
I am totally stealing the idea with the ARB bumper floods conversion!
And I stole the idea from somebody here
The trick is finding a light with the right spacing between the holes if you want to use the ARB mounting points.
It was an emergency repair at the time for me, so I just used what I had laying around my garage, dynaflex 230. I would not recommend that sealant, it has held up just fine over the year plus, but the cure time was way too slow and I dealt with it re-liquifying each time it got wet for the week or so after I applied it. I'd go for something faster curing, maybe polyurethane based? Sikaflex 295 UV might be just the ticket?
Well dang...that was my best guess.View attachment 3222204
I don't think I missed any bolts on top of the fan shroud. I checked pictures I took during the process, those bolts were definitely taken out at early stage of the process. Somewhere around the taking the radiator out. Hopefully it won't affect any critical component operation.
I bought the TYC radiator, it works almost perfect except the coolant tank hole doesn't line up with the radiator. I can only use one bolt. Also the radiator cap is little bit too far from the coolant tank. Original hose just barely enough to be clamped in.
these look really good... wanna do mine?
I replaced the entire brake, booster assembly, heater, tees, and AHC fluid. She’s going to need ball joints, so that’s coming up next month.I am new to the 100 series. Coming from the 40 forum OCD Bettle has a really successful, fun thread where we post a pic of wheeling, a fix, a new part, etc. for our trucks.
It's neat to see the mix of projects, daily driving issues, weekend wheelin reports, etc.
I thought the 100 forum could use one...
I'll start...today I ordered an Iron Man 2 inch lift kit for my 99'.
I need to expand the oven a little, LOL, it takes a few hours to queue them up one at a time.these look really good... wanna do mine?
