The longest one has been installed. The three short ones are the one still not installed.
Can you identify what are those bolts?
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (21 Viewers)
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The longest one has been installed. The three short ones are the one still not installed.
Can you identify what are those bolts?
AC line bracket across the top of the radiator shroud?
I don't think I missed any bolts on top of the fan shroud. I checked pictures I took during the process, those bolts were definitely taken out at early stage of the process. Somewhere around the taking the radiator out. Hopefully it won't affect any critical component operation.
I bought the TYC radiator, it works almost perfect except the coolant tank hole doesn't line up with the radiator. I can only use one bolt. Also the radiator cap is little bit too far from the coolant tank. Original hose just barely enough to be clamped in.
The pointy tipped fastener is a body bolt… possibly to a steering lines clamp???
The other 2 fasteners are machine bolts… ???? And they are not very long… timing cover bolts???
I would take a very close and measured looksee at everything you touched during your repair operation… Use a flashlight and a mirror to inspect all right angle, blind fastener locations.
Well it certainly wasn't all this week but...
Early December: noticed power steering suddenly got stiff while driving, pulled over to fill the fluid up and saw it spurting from behind the pump. Several days later, got the new pump and replaced it and the alternator, took some time to clean the engine bay up.
The week before Christmas: once again the steering got stiff, didn't see a leak from the pump and added fluid. I got home to take a look at it, fluid was pouring from the steering rack. Between waiting on parts, the crazy cold snap, holiday travel, and trying to do all the work evenings after work, finally got that wrapped up the end of last week. Had to replace the airbag clockspring as well, because I got the steering wheel out of position rotating it when the shaft was disconnect from the old rack.
Start it up, and right away...another leak
Luckily it was just the return line hose. Quick trip to O'Reilly, got a few feet of transmission cooler hose, switched the lines, and good to go. I think I am all leak free at this point. By far the most difficult and drawn out maintenance project I've done to date, but plenty of new skills acquired!
Early December: noticed power steering suddenly got stiff while driving, pulled over to fill the fluid up and saw it spurting from behind the pump. Several days later, got the new pump and replaced it and the alternator, took some time to clean the engine bay up.
The week before Christmas: once again the steering got stiff, didn't see a leak from the pump and added fluid. I got home to take a look at it, fluid was pouring from the steering rack. Between waiting on parts, the crazy cold snap, holiday travel, and trying to do all the work evenings after work, finally got that wrapped up the end of last week. Had to replace the airbag clockspring as well, because I got the steering wheel out of position rotating it when the shaft was disconnect from the old rack.
Start it up, and right away...another leak
Luckily it was just the return line hose. Quick trip to O'Reilly, got a few feet of transmission cooler hose, switched the lines, and good to go. I think I am all leak free at this point. By far the most difficult and drawn out maintenance project I've done to date, but plenty of new skills acquired!What type of sealant did you use to complete this project?For those of you up here in the PNW with me, you'll be able to relate to the recent fun of the "atmospheric river" we've been experiencing, AKA days on end of dumping rain. I noticed a drip to the interior from both front corners of my sunroof that wasn't the seal to the truck body. It turned out to be the inner seal bonded to the glass itself. Water gets between the inner rubber and the glass and runs down into the front plastic bezel piece. Once enough water has built up there, it drips out the seam where the front and side interior trim bezels meet.
I was all ready to pull the trigger on a new glass as you can't get this rubber separate, but it looks like Mr. T wants $750 MSRP for one now, ouch! I'm going to try a bit of sealant first and see if that'll be enough to do it. If not, it looks like an early xmas gift for the cruiser.
Separation was the worst at the front center where the two pieces of this rubber meet. My driveway is level and with the forward rake of the suspension, this is always sitting underwater whenever it rains.
The rear join is just starting to separate, but not yet as bad as the front.
Has the sealant held up a year or two now?
Got another one of those atmospheric rivers flowing into the PNW, seems I am getting the same issue in my 2000 LX470.
I am totally stealing the idea with the ARB bumper floods conversion!
And I stole the idea from somebody here
The trick is finding a light with the right spacing between the holes if you want to use the ARB mounting points.These Amazon specials were pretty close, but I did have to oblong the holes a bit to fit the ARB mounting points. I would like to find a quality light for this spot.
It was an emergency repair at the time for me, so I just used what I had laying around my garage, dynaflex 230. I would not recommend that sealant, it has held up just fine over the year plus, but the cure time was way too slow and I dealt with it re-liquifying each time it got wet for the week or so after I applied it. I'd go for something faster curing, maybe polyurethane based? Sikaflex 295 UV might be just the ticket?
Well dang...that was my best guess.View attachment 3222204
I don't think I missed any bolts on top of the fan shroud. I checked pictures I took during the process, those bolts were definitely taken out at early stage of the process. Somewhere around the taking the radiator out. Hopefully it won't affect any critical component operation.
I bought the TYC radiator, it works almost perfect except the coolant tank hole doesn't line up with the radiator. I can only use one bolt. Also the radiator cap is little bit too far from the coolant tank. Original hose just barely enough to be clamped in.
Sand blasted and powder-coated my factory wheels.
This is now a dedicated PC oven.
Hot coat
the finished product.
The caps are not exact, but close enough and great for a rattle-can match to the wheel.
Wheels finished in prismatic powders triple bronze.
The rattle can caps are finished with #SP-301 Brown Hammered Gloss done with a few light coats (bypassing the hammered effect).
This is now a dedicated PC oven.
Hot coat
the finished product.
The caps are not exact, but close enough and great for a rattle-can match to the wheel.
Wheels finished in prismatic powders triple bronze.
The rattle can caps are finished with #SP-301 Brown Hammered Gloss done with a few light coats (bypassing the hammered effect).
Does anybody know which bulb is this for the rear quarter window switch? I ordered the
Dorman 639-041 but they are too big. That!View attachment 3223374
Dorman 639-041 but they are too big. That!View attachment 3223374
These look like the ones you have, but perhaps the Toyota OEM will work out better:
Toyota bulb part number: 84999-10310
these look really good... wanna do mine?
I replaced the entire brake, booster assembly, heater, tees, and AHC fluid. She’s going to need ball joints, so that’s coming up next month.I am new to the 100 series. Coming from the 40 forum OCD Bettle has a really successful, fun thread where we post a pic of wheeling, a fix, a new part, etc. for our trucks.
It's neat to see the mix of projects, daily driving issues, weekend wheelin reports, etc.
I thought the 100 forum could use one...
I'll start...today I ordered an Iron Man 2 inch lift kit for my 99'.
I need to expand the oven a little, LOL, it takes a few hours to queue them up one at a time.these look really good... wanna do mine?
I replaced all four of my O2 sensors to solve a P0420 code. Unfortunately, light came back on after 15 miles.
I also go in there to find where an oil leak was coming from. A lot of weeping around the passenger side valve cover gasket. Most of the bolts weren't even finger tight.
Day by day getting my new 100 series back to baseline with maintenance before I make any modifications.
I also go in there to find where an oil leak was coming from. A lot of weeping around the passenger side valve cover gasket. Most of the bolts weren't even finger tight.
Day by day getting my new 100 series back to baseline with maintenance before I make any modifications.
