What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (48 Viewers)

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Hood blackout installed. Bumper installed. Additional master key added/programmed.

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Added some new headlights today and cleaned up the wiring from the lockers installation. Tomorrow I’m going to figure out how to have power to the back windows for when I’m sleeping back there. Hopefully I can just run a hot jumper to the fuse. Otherwise I’ll run a new hot wire to the motor wires. I’m not great with electrical on cars so it’s always a learning experience for me.

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What headlight kit is this did it upgrade them to hid too? Morimoto? Looks great
 
Hood blackout installed. Bumper installed. Additional master key added/programmed.

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I have a faded clear problem, as well. I have another car that's black and needs paint. Sooner or later my truck's hood will likely turn black. Did you mask and paint or is that a vinyl overlay?
 
I have a faded clear problem, as well. I have another car that's black and needs paint. Sooner or later my truck's hood will likely turn black. Did you mask and paint or is that a vinyl overlay?
It's the vinyl from Crawlorado. It did wonders to cover up faded clear coat and I really like the way it pulls together my truck visually with the bumper and roof rack being black as well. The instructions from Crawlorado could use some serious updating, but the install wasn't difficult. I ordered the felt squeegee with the vinyl and some vinyl spray from Amazon.
 
What headlight kit is this did it upgrade them to hid too? Morimoto? Looks great
Sorry just saw your question. These are what I bought. Mainly on price and looks. I did need to do some rewiring toget the halos to work and also needed to buy some LED orange lights for the turn signals. I don’t drive this car on the street very much after dark so I haven’t had a chance yet to see how they work in the dark. I have good off road lights for driving off road at night.

 
Tried installing the fuel tank last night and I could not get the bolt in through the strap. Going to try again tonight with a 70mm bolt and see if I can get the straps to form up a bit. I’ve run new nicop brake lines from the front as well as fuel lines. Also been cleaning up the chassis and axle, one side shows sorta what the other looked like before cleaning it up. Still need to do the same down the passengers sid along the muffler.

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Fuel tank in place, pro tip for those that struggle with replacing fuel tank straps in the future, use a 50mm bolt, slightly longer than stock but not too long that you have to put the stock one back in place after snugging straps up. 50mm bolt is perfect solution when bolting up the straps.

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Wife and I just returned from a 3,775 mile trip primarily around Utah. One speeding ticket in SW Kansas, 4 freshly balanced tires in St. George and 14 National Parks/Monuments later we are home. The 100 is darn close to 375k miles now!
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I noticed there was some oil leaking under the cruiser when we got home.
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Looks like the front output shaft oil seal on the transfer case let out a 1/2 quart of fluid. Hey, gear oil has to work better than Fluid Film, right? The leak is probably from the last day in Moab when we went hood deep in water at the end of Baby Lions Back.

Here is a lame, no sound, dashcam video of Baby Lions Back. My wife has been a trooper on the Colorado trails we've done over the last 15 years, not even flinching at Black Bear Pass, but she did NOT like the steepness of the slick rock here.
 
2003 LC Cabin temperature not rising. So added coolant and burped radiator; however, the cabin temp doesn't rise to the Max Hot level like my 2001. Used the search engine and I guess I'm not using the right words so nothing shows up. I'm not getting any DTC codes either.
Any words of wisdom?? Thanks! It's being below freezing all week here in MT so this has become a priority!

Thermostat?
 
I just finished(like 10 min ago) installing my UCA's and sway bar links. I've been procrastinating the control arms for almost two months. The OEM ones I removed I believe are originals. 253k and were totally shot. Took about 4 hours - my first time - and wasn't terribly difficult. Now time for an alignment.

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Fuel tank in place, pro tip for those that struggle with replacing fuel tank straps in the future, use a 50mm bolt, slightly longer than stock but not too long that you have to put the stock one back in place after snugging straps up. 50mm bolt is perfect solution when bolting up the straps.

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I could have used this pro tip yesterday! After a lot of struggle, I got the rear tank strap in place and tightened, but that rear inside mounting bolt is quite difficult. Great tip for others in the same boat, as I was unsure how much longer of a bolt could be used. Because those straps are secured to the body, not the frame, I was hesitant to use a longer bolt unless needed. Glad you got that project wrapped up!
 
I could have used this pro tip yesterday! After a lot of struggle, I got the rear tank strap in place and tightened, but that rear inside mounting bolt is quite difficult. Great tip for others in the same boat, as I was unsure how much longer of a bolt could be used. Because those straps are secured to the body, not the frame, I was hesitant to use a longer bolt unless needed. Glad you got that project wrapped up!
I'd bought a 50mm and a 70mm bolt hoping one would work, and the 50mm worked like a charm and didn't bottom out on the body.
 
I'd bought a 50mm and a 70mm bolt hoping one would work, and the 50mm worked like a charm and didn't bottom out on the body.
I said to hell with them both and replaced them with zinc galvanized strapping. Holds as tight and in location as stock. Though, I doubt either of you are in the rusty fun filled mess that I am 😂.
 
I said to hell with them both and replaced them with zinc galvanized strapping. Holds as tight and in location as stock. Though, I doubt either of you are in the rusty fun filled mess that I am 😂.
If I hadn't already put it back together I would likely borrow that idea! Re: rust, here in Maine we're about as familiar with rust as it gets. The combination of the ocean and a snowy/icy climate make working under vehicles very... fun? :vomit: I suspect @2020 Rocks may be in a similar situation over in Ohio unfortunately. I suppose anyone in need of tank replacement due to rust is familiar with how enjoyable it makes it to work under a Cruiser.
 
If I hadn't already put it back together I would likely borrow that idea! Re: rust, here in Maine we're about as familiar with rust as it gets. The combination of the ocean and a snowy/icy climate make working under vehicles very... fun? :vomit: I suspect @2020 Rocks may be in a similar situation over in Ohio unfortunately. I suppose anyone in need of tank replacement due to rust is familiar with how enjoyable it makes it to work under a Cruiser.
I’ve been living that Salt Life my whole life….born in Kalamazoo, lived in Presque Isle when I was a kid, my pops lived in Syracuse for a while, oh I’ve seen things that would make the folks out west cry or maybe just laugh real hard
 
So I finally found a windshield installer near me that seemed like they would do a good job, use rivets, oem gaskets/seals, etc. I had a mobile appointment scheduled this morning. I removed the wipers, cowl, and screws from the previous install in preparation. I didn't full remove the side trim, but I peeked behind it and it all looked pretty good.

Unfortunately, the installers found rust behind the top seal when they pulled it (doesn't look too bad to me). While they said they could do minor rust repair, they were afraid to go any further with the job and recommended I take it to a body shop.

Now I'm left searching for body shops in the SF Bay Area that can fix this and install new glass. On top of that, I'm moving in three weeks and am really hoping I can get this fixed in time.

Even though they didn't complete the job, I would recommend Super Auto Glass if you need a windshield. They seemed really honest and thorough – just wish they were could do more rust repair.

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I didn't like the idea of $400 for extended sway bar links. so bought some $40 rockauto items and cut and welded some wheel studs in (1" in front, 1.5" in back according to my napkin geometry estimations).

Only installed the front ones so far (as the rear top nuts are sunk into the washers so going to be a PITA to remove), but the difference in ride quality and handling is night and day on my 2.5 slee OME / nitrocharger lift.
Honestly, those lift kits should come with sway bay drop link extensions as part of the lift kit. I've always thought it rode like crap, and had a horrible habit of lifting the front inside wheel over fast road undulations that I blamed on the nitros being over damped on the return stroke, but these extended links have transformed it and it rides like a different vehicle. Even though it looked like nothing, that incorrect angle on the sway must have caused quite a lot of stiffening/binding of the front independent arms.

Highly recommended.

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Do you think that the extended sway bar endlinks are needed with a front diff drop installed? Still helpful with diff drop, in other words?
 

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