What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (41 Viewers)

[87warrior]

I replaced the rear panhard bar (trackbar) on my 370,000mile Midwest rusty rig. I fully expected removing the two bolts to take several hours and require heat and a cutting tool. The bolts came right out and slid through the bushings with no effort. The old panhard bar was replaced in less time than it took to find my 1/2" metric sockets. Color me impressed!

 

[brando1]

New wheel bearings, tie rods, cv boot, getting ready for Cruisers on the Rocks.

 

[wrigh003]

Finally got to the CruiserDM parts that have been riding corner of my desk for weeks.

Old and busted:

New hottness:

Install was pretty easy, though fishing the OD override switch wires was a pain. I actually wound up just cutting and extending those instead of trying to keep it all stock. Crimped, taped, sealed, wire-loomed and zip tied, they’re solid.

My last wrinkle is getting the shifter reattached correctly (the little screws are not threading in yet) so it’ll work 100%, but I’ll get that done soon.

 

[wrigh003]

I replaced the rear panhard bar (trackbar) on my 370,000mile Midwest rusty rig. I fully expected removing the two bolts to take several hours and require heat and a cutting tool. The bolts came right out and slid through the bushings with no effort. The old panhard bar was replaced in less time than it took to find my 1/2" metric sockets. Color me impressed!

Man- when stuff like that happens I get all tense a couple of days waiting for the universe to slap me with something else.

 

[YezusLX]

Finally got to the CruiserDM parts that have been riding corner of my desk for weeks.

Old and busted:
View attachment 3144181

New hottness:
View attachment 3144183


Install was pretty easy, though fishing the OD override switch wires was a pain. I actually wound up just cutting and extending those instead of trying to keep it all stock. Crimped, taped, sealed, wire-loomed and zip tied, they’re solid.

My last wrinkle is getting the shifter reattached correctly (the little screws are not threading in yet) so it’ll work 100%, but I’ll get that done soon.

I am about to do this exact install. How much does that OD job suck? 2 beverages? 4?

 

[fblainen11]

Here’s a list of things I’ve done over the week:
Installed Slee 2nd battery tray, capped of power steering reservoir, tightened clamps on power steering reservoir, installed Optima group 35 yellow top, wired Ironman 4x4 dc to dc charger w/ solar input, installed ARB compressor with swivel fitting (have not finished wiring on ARB compressor), fixed passenger seat bolt threads and installed new seat bolt.

Replaced AC condenser, removed weed baggy my brother in law left in my Land Cruiser from AC fan after I told him not to smoke weed in my car while I let him borrow it, installed new Falken Wildpeak AT3Ws, put RTT back on the roof for camping season this fall.

What’s left to do?
Wire ARB compressor, install Ironman 4x4 Foam Cell Pro 2” lift, install Ironman 4x4 diff drop kit, order and install solar panels (or at least have a quick disconnect wired up to use them), order and install fuse block, install Pure sine inverter after fuse block install.

Go camping.

 

[wrigh003]

I am about to do this exact install. How much does that OD job suck? 2 beverages? 4?

It's not really that hard, just fiddly. Get yourself some butt connectors and crimpers, snip the wire, reconnect. There's not really a ton of slack, so it's probably easier to do what I did and just use an extension wire and 4 butt connectors instead of two. All that button does is complete a circuit (or interrupt one), so it's not exactly a super-electrical-technical thing.

One thing I did that I think made it easier- while pulling the wires up through the shifter lever, make sure the two white wires pull the black insulation/ covering with. Use tweezers to get that to pull out too if you need to. THAT WAY, when you go to push those wires back down through, its less like pushing rope and more like pushing a cable with some stiffness. I taped the white ends down with electrical tape at the end of the black insulation, and it went through pretty easy.

I'm having trouble in the last stretch though- it's all back in and working good, but I can't for the life of me get the shifter knob to properly seat back up where the button works as intended and the screws in front go back. Any pointers there from the crowd? Right now I have to do a little wigglin and fiddlin to get truck in gear or back into park.

 

[YezusLX]

It's not really that hard, just fiddly. Get yourself some butt connectors and crimpers, snip the wire, reconnect. There's not really a ton of slack, so it's probably easier to do what I did and just use an extension wire and 4 butt connectors instead of two. All that button does is complete a circuit (or interrupt one), so it's not exactly a super-electrical-technical thing.

One thing I did that I think made it easier- while pulling the wires up through the shifter lever, make sure the two white wires pull the black insulation/ covering with. Use tweezers to get that to pull out too if you need to. THAT WAY, when you go to push those wires back down through, its less like pushing rope and more like pushing a cable with some stiffness. I taped the white ends down with electrical tape at the end of the black insulation, and it went through pretty easy.

I'm having trouble in the last stretch though- it's all back in and working good, but I can't for the life of me get the shifter knob to properly seat back up where the button works as intended and the screws in front go back. Any pointers there from the crowd? Right now I have to do a little wigglin and fiddlin to get truck in gear or back into park.

Good to know. I am going to give that a try. Is it possible to relocate the wire break somewhere else? Pull wires down to the rear of the shift plate do the break there and then run them back up to OD?

 

[wrigh003]

Good to know. I am going to give that a try. Is it possible to relocate the wire break somewhere else? Pull wires down to the rear of the shift plate do the break there and then run them back up to OD?

There's not another spot to do it, really, since that's where the wires are accessible. You gotta get the OD cancel switch out to pull the knob off to put the plate on, and the best way to do that is to snip behind/ below shifter, pull all that out, then swap your parts, fish the wires back down through and reconnect.

 

[YezusLX]

There's not another spot to do it, really, since that's where the wires are accessible. You gotta get the OD cancel switch out to pull the knob off to put the plate on, and the best way to do that is to snip behind/ below shifter, pull all that out, then swap your parts, fish the wires back down through and reconnect.

There's Will's video! Wow, I feel like an idiot. Haha, things are hard to find when they are in front of my face. Thanks, Broski!

 

[v8Billy]

Today I built dividers for my drawer unit, pretty easy and WAY better use of the space, now there is extra room. Got 2 sheets of coroplast, only needed one.

 

[v8Billy]

Added a series 27 battery to my 2nd battery tray. Yes it's lots bigger than a 34 series but the extra capacity is welcome and will run my fridge/freezer all night without issue. Had to relieve the underside of the hood slightly to avoid contact with the positive posts, that would be bad obviously. Plan to run tubing on the edges of the relief hole but it's not sharp as it is. The math says this battery will run the fridge for 26 hours, sounds good to me.

 

[HTXFLY]

Cleaned my MAF sensor. Exhaust fume smell is gone and idles/runs much smoother. Easiest thing I’ve done yet!
Now to address the exhaust clicking and replace the muffler (rusted out).

 

[YezusLX]

Replaced some more missing or damaged parts on my sweet chariot o' death.
12236-50010
12261-50050
12262-50030
90467-20010
96111-10900
96111-10950

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Replaced some more missing or damaged parts on my sweet chariot o' death.
12236-50010
12261-50050
12262-50030
90467-20010
96111-10900
96111-10950

Now you acting straight up gangsta!
Posting only part numbers and not what they are in plain old English!
I looked them up for us uninitiated types - they are PCV and related tubes/clamps.

 

[wpod]

topped off power steering fluid, changed Mobil 1 & OE filter, replaced upper control arm bushings, repaired LED light bar connection and
installed new front pads. Alignment followed soon after bushing replacement...

 

[YezusLX]

Now you acting straight up gangsta!
Posting only part numbers and not what they are in plain old English!
I looked them up for us uninitiated types - they are PCV and related tubes/clamps.

Is this the fun part of baselining that nickel and dimes you to death? I feel like Lexus should give me a frequent flyer card or something for the sheer volume of plugs, clips, hoses, clamps, wire ties, push clips, terminals, bolts, nuts, and any other ancillary pieces I keep finding that are broken or missing that I have replaced on this thing. Did you know a 100 series is capable of operating consistently and without failing without half the pieces that hold it together? That's just impressive in and of itself. Who knew?!?

 

[Formerjeeper]

Had engine and transmission mounts replaced and undercarriage sprayed with Woolwax.

Unbelievable difference in how smooth it feels with the new mounts installed. IMO for trucks at the 200K mark this should be just after baselining fluids and heater tees, especially for daily or frequently driven 100s.

Can’t wait to do the sway bar and control arm bushings. It is going to feel like new!

 

[Gert Odendaal]

I build myself a spare wheel braai grid ...a spit braai rotisery , a few stainless steel egg rings to use on this braai grid ...nearly completed with these projects

 

[jackhossross]

Finished my Dissent Front and Rear Install and had the ADGU Cutting Board and custom wing installed into my '98.