What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (50 Viewers)

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Finished my Dissent Front and Rear Install and had the ADGU Cutting Board and custom wing installed into my '98.

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Had engine and transmission mounts replaced and undercarriage sprayed with Woolwax.

Unbelievable difference in how smooth it feels with the new mounts installed. IMO for trucks at the 200K mark this should be just after baselining fluids and heater tees, especially for daily or frequently driven 100s.

Can’t wait to do the sway bar and control arm bushings. It is going to feel like new!
which mounts did you go with?
 
Replacement parts from that big sale that happened earlier this year finally showed up. Toyota was nice enough to cover the replacements since they were damaged in transit. First up for replacement was the cabin air fan that was squeaking. I have also noticed the airflow through some grilles will decrease while others will increase randomly so I am thinking a blower door may be having an issue.

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In other news, got it into the community shop one last time before the owners took it back over to be their own private shop. Got the lights all wired up and got a nice peak at how everything looks while on the lift.

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Then I started to prep some of the rust at the tailgate from the water leak in the 3rd brake light I solved a few years back. I was greeted with a few small holes so I will need to weld up some patches. Not super thrilled about that, but it is what it is. More grinding to go to remove all the cancer, then prime and paint.

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To finish it off, I have noticed my oil pressure gauge will read low when idling after getting warmed up. When I rebuilt the engine I used the oil sender off the lower mileage engine since I assumed it would be in better. Seems like that might have been a poor choice so that is going to be on the list of things to replace.

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Jiggle siphoned 10ish gallons of gasoline from the fuel tank in preparation to drop the tank and replace fuel lines and rear brake line. Dang jiggle siphon would not take so that was a whole lot of jiggling. SMH.
 
Jiggle siphoned 10ish gallons of gasoline from the fuel tank in preparation to drop the tank and replace fuel lines and rear brake line. Dang jiggle siphon would not take so that was a whole lot of jiggling. SMH.
You can get a better angle to get the last bits (won’t get all) if you remove the filler tube flex pipe and go into the inlet.
 
You can get a better angle to get the last bits (won’t get all) if you remove the filler tube flex pipe and go into the inlet.
I went in from the top and removed the fuel pump housing, the arc of the hose seemed to be the issue, always a bubble up top. There's an inch of fuel in the bottom of the tank still, but good enough. Tomorrow should be fun. Did you have to remove the drive shaft to drop the tank? I'm thinking it's necessary, but then if I remove the drive shaft I am really tempted to remove the rear axle and clean it up as well as frame rails. This is probably going turn into finishing sliders, axle clean up, and fluid filing undercarriage....might as well while I have the tank drive shaft and conceivably the axle removed.
 
I went in from the top and removed the fuel pump housing, the arc of the hose seemed to be the issue, always a bubble up top. There's an inch of fuel in the bottom of the tank still, but good enough. Tomorrow should be fun. Did you have to remove the drive shaft to drop the tank? I'm thinking it's necessary, but then if I remove the drive shaft I am really tempted to remove the rear axle and clean it up as well as frame rails. This is probably going turn into finishing sliders, axle clean up, and fluid filing undercarriage....might as well while I have the tank drive shaft and conceivably the axle removed.
You can maneuver the tank so that the driver side comes down first. Get a jack under it and pull the straps, then push the side that goes over the drive shaft a bit toward the passenger side to clear the control arm bolt on driver side. While lowering it slowly, just finesse it back and forth between clearing the driver side control arm bolt and guiding past the drive shaft. It can be frustrating, but patience persists.

Edit: you said you went in through your sending unit access, so this is all with the assumption you have everything else prepped and removed for landing.
 
Replacement parts from that big sale that happened earlier this year finally showed up. Toyota was nice enough to cover the replacements since they were damaged in transit. First up for replacement was the cabin air fan that was squeaking. I have also noticed the airflow through some grilles will decrease while others will increase randomly so I am thinking a blower door may be having an issue.

View attachment 3145764 View attachment 3145766

In other news, got it into the community shop one last time before the owners took it back over to be their own private shop. Got the lights all wired up and got a nice peak at how everything looks while on the lift.

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View attachment 3145772

Then I started to prep some of the rust at the tailgate from the water leak in the 3rd brake light I solved a few years back. I was greeted with a few small holes so I will need to weld up some patches. Not super thrilled about that, but it is what it is. More grinding to go to remove all the cancer, then prime and paint.

View attachment 3145776

View attachment 3145777

To finish it off, I have noticed my oil pressure gauge will read low when idling after getting warmed up. When I rebuilt the engine I used the oil sender off the lower mileage engine since I assumed it would be in better. Seems like that might have been a poor choice so that is going to be on the list of things to replace.

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FWIW, the low oil pressure reading at idle once warmed up is normal.
 
FWIW, the low oil pressure reading at idle once warmed up is normal.
It is? From my reading of other posts I thought it was suppose to range from the 1/4 to 3/4 mark in normal operation and not go above or below that. With the original engine it would function like that. Guess I just assumed this was bad.
 
@96redformula Reviews on the ridies/l-seats/etc on here all seem really mixed, so I used a local shop. I used them in the past when I was wholesaling cars and because they're local. I like being able to go bang on someone's door if the quality isn't up to snuff.

@TexLXCRZR I went with the regular old amazon/ebay steering wheel option. Looks like they source old cores and recover/refinish them. Sometimes in the past they have the light wood ones, but I waited 3-4 months without seeing them so that may not be an option anymore. I used thedyeguy to install the covers since they're a vendor for our dealership and I didn't have to take/leave my truck with him.
 
It is? From my reading of other posts I thought it was suppose to range from the 1/4 to 3/4 mark in normal operation and not go above or below that. With the original engine it would function like that. Guess I just assumed this was bad.

I'll have to pay closer attention to mine this weekend and report back to confirm. You've got me questioning myself now, lol.
 
I'll have to pay closer attention to mine this weekend and report back to confirm. You've got me questioning myself now, lol.
Just swapped my oil pressure sensor. Can confirm that 75% to 25% is my range.
 

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