Finished my Dissent Front and Rear Install and had the ADGU Cutting Board and custom wing installed into my '98.
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which mounts did you go with?Had engine and transmission mounts replaced and undercarriage sprayed with Woolwax.
Unbelievable difference in how smooth it feels with the new mounts installed. IMO for trucks at the 200K mark this should be just after baselining fluids and heater tees, especially for daily or frequently driven 100s.
Can’t wait to do the sway bar and control arm bushings. It is going to feel like new!
New OEM Toyota. I bought them a few months ago when Toyota Parts Southwest had the 30-ish percent discount sale.which mounts did you go with?
Made a video up, on the AHC bushing replacement!
I will, but likely not going to bother with it until next spring, as the rear kitchen needs to come out to access deck, as I am going to cut access holes vs. fiddling around with flex head wrenches + not being able to properly re-torque on install.Thanks, you made it look easy! Are you going to make a video for the rear?
You can get a better angle to get the last bits (won’t get all) if you remove the filler tube flex pipe and go into the inlet.Jiggle siphoned 10ish gallons of gasoline from the fuel tank in preparation to drop the tank and replace fuel lines and rear brake line. Dang jiggle siphon would not take so that was a whole lot of jiggling. SMH.
I went in from the top and removed the fuel pump housing, the arc of the hose seemed to be the issue, always a bubble up top. There's an inch of fuel in the bottom of the tank still, but good enough. Tomorrow should be fun. Did you have to remove the drive shaft to drop the tank? I'm thinking it's necessary, but then if I remove the drive shaft I am really tempted to remove the rear axle and clean it up as well as frame rails. This is probably going turn into finishing sliders, axle clean up, and fluid filing undercarriage....might as well while I have the tank drive shaft and conceivably the axle removed.You can get a better angle to get the last bits (won’t get all) if you remove the filler tube flex pipe and go into the inlet.
You can maneuver the tank so that the driver side comes down first. Get a jack under it and pull the straps, then push the side that goes over the drive shaft a bit toward the passenger side to clear the control arm bolt on driver side. While lowering it slowly, just finesse it back and forth between clearing the driver side control arm bolt and guiding past the drive shaft. It can be frustrating, but patience persists.I went in from the top and removed the fuel pump housing, the arc of the hose seemed to be the issue, always a bubble up top. There's an inch of fuel in the bottom of the tank still, but good enough. Tomorrow should be fun. Did you have to remove the drive shaft to drop the tank? I'm thinking it's necessary, but then if I remove the drive shaft I am really tempted to remove the rear axle and clean it up as well as frame rails. This is probably going turn into finishing sliders, axle clean up, and fluid filing undercarriage....might as well while I have the tank drive shaft and conceivably the axle removed.
Replacement parts from that big sale that happened earlier this year finally showed up. Toyota was nice enough to cover the replacements since they were damaged in transit. First up for replacement was the cabin air fan that was squeaking. I have also noticed the airflow through some grilles will decrease while others will increase randomly so I am thinking a blower door may be having an issue.
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In other news, got it into the community shop one last time before the owners took it back over to be their own private shop. Got the lights all wired up and got a nice peak at how everything looks while on the lift.
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Then I started to prep some of the rust at the tailgate from the water leak in the 3rd brake light I solved a few years back. I was greeted with a few small holes so I will need to weld up some patches. Not super thrilled about that, but it is what it is. More grinding to go to remove all the cancer, then prime and paint.
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To finish it off, I have noticed my oil pressure gauge will read low when idling after getting warmed up. When I rebuilt the engine I used the oil sender off the lower mileage engine since I assumed it would be in better. Seems like that might have been a poor choice so that is going to be on the list of things to replace.
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It is? From my reading of other posts I thought it was suppose to range from the 1/4 to 3/4 mark in normal operation and not go above or below that. With the original engine it would function like that. Guess I just assumed this was bad.FWIW, the low oil pressure reading at idle once warmed up is normal.
Which seat covers did you go with?Seats re-covered to match the new steering wheel. 3 out of 4 door lock actuators replaced.
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Replaced my raggedy steering wheel. I really thought I'd dislike the mismatched materials a lot more, but I barely notice.
It is? From my reading of other posts I thought it was suppose to range from the 1/4 to 3/4 mark in normal operation and not go above or below that. With the original engine it would function like that. Guess I just assumed this was bad.
Just swapped my oil pressure sensor. Can confirm that 75% to 25% is my range.I'll have to pay closer attention to mine this weekend and report back to confirm. You've got me questioning myself now, lol.