What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (119 Viewers)

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Had a break in the rain all day yesterday and I set aside 6 hours to try my luck replacing my radiator. Minus the time to make some coffee it only took about 2 hours. It was much easier than I had expected, but I broke all the mounts for my ac lines(they were extremely brittle). Didn't need to remove anything, just pushed the fan shroud back and out it came. Looks like the original radiator? Lot of miles on this one and had the grime to show for it.

Old Rad.jpg
 
Eyedaho said:
If that's all you're doing, it shouldn't take an hour? Or maybe it's part of a bigger project.
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I guess more of many projects than a mass project. I have Fox Performance Series 2.0 Remote Res shocks for the rear, along with new springs, control arms, and sway bar d bushings. That’s one, another is all new fuel lines, tank, skid plate, and the fuel filter that is supposed to hit today. The lists are large, I also have my rusted rockers replacement job to complete. Cut em out and welded in 2x6 tubing, but then winter snuck in quick so I couldn’t finish 100%.
 
YungTexx said:
Replaced original alternator on 1999 LC after 265k miles.

Any recommendations on OEM front axles?
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before you replaced your alternator, did you notice anything abnormal on cold starts? My '99 with 255k is almost hiccuping/sputtering on cold starts, I can especially feel it when the brake pedal is depressed. Causing the RPM's to dive a little every time the engine sputters/hiccups. Replaced all spark plugs but not all coils. No check engine lights. Curious if it could be attributed to the alternator as there's no history of a new one being installed.
 
LXJake93 said:
before you replaced your alternator, did you notice anything abnormal on cold starts? My '99 with 255k is almost hiccuping/sputtering on cold starts, I can especially feel it when the brake pedal is depressed. Causing the RPM's to dive a little every time the engine sputters/hiccups. Replaced all spark plugs but not all coils. No check engine lights. Curious if it could be attributed to the alternator as there's no history of a new one being installed.
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That had happened to me once or twice but I felt as if was my fault for not holding the key long enough to fire up...

So I would say no, I didnt have the issue you are having. I find it curious that your RPMs dive when the brake pedal is compressed.

I would take the plunge (especially at 255k miles) to replace your alternator yourself and see where that takes you. It is good maintenance to get done especially considering they typically get replaced every 75-100k miles. Should only take an hour, two max, and should cost you less than $200 to get a Toyota alternator with the core charge.
 
Red Beard said:
Installed the LX door seals, wellvisors, and overhead panel LED lights.

View attachment 2929367
View attachment 2929368

View attachment 2929369

The WellVisors are really well built. I’m still getting used to them but I think I like them. I’m pretty tall so they obstruct my view a little bit but I think I’ll get used to it. It’s been crappy weather here lately but I’m interested to see how they are on a sunny day. I’m also excited to crack the window without a ton of wind noise.

Now Im wondering if can I still get a tint with those visors on or will they have to remove them? 😬
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lx470 and LC have different door seals? My 98 is pretty noisy in the cabin.
 
We demand a full thread. You can't keep the details from us. pretty please.
Dilspec said:
I'll pm you @GTV - Don't want to bombard this thread with those pictures.
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YungTexx said:
That had happened to me once or twice but I felt as if was my fault for not holding the key long enough to fire up...

So I would say no, I didnt have the issue you are having. I find it curious that your RPMs dive when the brake pedal is compressed.

I would take the plunge (especially at 255k miles) to replace your alternator yourself and see where that takes you. It is good maintenance to get done especially considering they typically get replaced every 75-100k miles. Should only take an hour, two max, and should cost you less than $200 to get a Toyota alternator with the core charge.
Click to expand...
Recently replaced the alternator on my MY2000 LC. Entire vehicle was acting strange for a couple months, killed 2 batteries, and a starter , finally replaced the alternator and all was good. It had 205K. I got the starter and batteries replaced at no cost (warranty) , but after the alternator was done never had a problem and all was good, pretty convinced the alternator was the culprit all along. The recommendation to replace is a good one, IMHO.
 
I understand why we hate mud now...

Camped somewhere in Idaho. The ground was already "squishy" and suspicious but thought nothing of it. Then there was torrential downpour all night. Woke up to the stickiest mud I have ever experienced! I lost a pair of shoes to it! I walked 15 ft and suddenly my shoes weighed 5lbs each from a HUGE mass of mud sticking to them. I really thought the car was going to slide off to its death. Absolutely zero traction. What a time!!!

IMG-6374.jpg
IMG-6376.jpg
 
iliveinmylc said:
I understand why we hate mud now...

Camped somewhere in Idaho. The ground was already "squishy" and suspicious but thought nothing of it. Then there was torrential downpour all night. Woke up to the stickiest mud I have ever experienced! I lost a pair of shoes to it! I walked 15 ft and suddenly my shoes weighed 5lbs each from a HUGE mass of mud sticking to them. I really thought the car was going to slide off to its death. Absolutely zero traction. What a time!!!

View attachment 2956050View attachment 2956049
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Look at the bright side. It could have been a lot worse and required a winch to get out of that innocent looking mud hole.

Fun is burying up in mud over the rock sliders.


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Getting to the finish line on this DIY prinsu style roof rack build. Today I tackled the mounting brackets, bought 1/4" 4" angle just in case, as I can always trim off the excess.

I devised this cross bar so I can determine with spacing of the bracket and then proceeded to slot the bracket so I can do adjustments. My bars are 51" across so I cut the wood at 50.5" + the 2x1/4" yielding me a total of 51"
IMG_8896.jpg

It's painfully slow to slot since I don't have anything fancy, just drilling holes and cutting out what's left. Not elegant at all but it works. As I worked towards the front bracket the width of the truck is wider putting the slot really close to the right angle, so I'm going to try and use a straight cut 5/16 carbide router bit to slot those holes, if it turns out good I might go back and clean up the other slots. None of the big box stores have them in stock so ordered it through Amazon and expect to have it Sunday.

PXL_20220319_004936757.jpg

Prepping the "jig" so I can run the palm router run a straight cut.
PXL_20220319_004930596.jpg

I see the end of the tunnel can't wait to finish this up.
 
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