What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (5 Viewers)

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I'm happy to report that I was able to drive back safely to Atlanta. I have had some issues with what I can only assume would be timing. No knocking or terrible symptoms, but something just does not seem to be functioning properly.

I ran a compression test and got extremely promising results on all cylinders (180+ psi on all cylinders).

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I popped the timing covers off to inspect the timing marks. Even got Peter Merriam to check it out. Everything appears to be in time but I'm not convinced.

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I will continue to update on my progress for trouble shooting this. In the meantime, it's at least encouraging to know it's in time.

Patch
Is that left cam is off to left by one teeth? I'm a totally newbee done one and only timing belt job though.
 
Is that left cam is off to left by one teeth? I'm a totally newbee done one and only timing belt job though.
The belt markings don't matter after the install as I understand it, but I saw that too and pondered. Perhaps the belt slipped a tooth while I was installing it but if that were the case I would be getting some serious problems.
 
Been prepping for CO so the last 2-3 weeks I rebuilt my hubs and spindles with all new bearings, bushings, seals, etc. New UCAs from Blackhawk, new ICON 2.5s all around, new 35x12.5r18 Toyo ATIIIs, new diff bushings, new heater hoses to match my new coolant hoses from my timing belt job in March, new trans cooler lines, new power steering lines, new Duralast H8 AGM battery, and repacked my CVs (F that job). I just need to clean my dissent skids, install the last rear ICON, check the remaining fluids, and hit the road.
 
Cheap man's catch can, will be interesting to see how effective this is, will be swapping the original filter with some stainless mesh, better than nothing


Also have a new found respect for braided hose.. Its a dog to cut through
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Change the RHS CV shaft. Not a difficult job but still not very pleasant. It took me 3 hours and several minutes was spent reinstalling the diff seal. Never fun not having the right tools to reinstall this seal!

The CV shaft axle is massive !View attachment 2736473
Tisk tisk. Not OEM. You have angered the Toyota gods…. 😂
 
what did the power coating cost you and did it include sand blasting. thx
Yes it id, it took care of the light scratches.
Media blasting + powder coating $400

Discount tire charge:
• black lug nuts set $95 (which I think is overpriced)
• dismount/mount/balance $200
 
Installed the 180 degree free standing awning from OVS. Had to make some 1" HDPE spacers to clear the lip on the front runner rack, but otherwise was an easy install with 2 people. Build quality is nice on this thing, especially for the price point. Can't wait to make use of it.

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would you mind taking a closer pic of the mounting, looks similiar to what I'm trying to do
 
yah i'm not about that life either. the other thought although expensive is to use aftermarket wheel spacers to push the wheels out far enough for the OE cover to snap on. I'm still toying with the idea of hole sawing the cap and getting/source some plastic to cover that axel cap.
I used a hole saw and made a hole just a hair bigger than the bearing cap. Then I sprayed the bearing cap with aluminum/silver paint to match the snap on cover. Blends in well.
 
Re-covered the center console lid using Cruiser Parts' replacement leather. Took a while to get it lined up and smooth, but thanks to this forum I got it done in about 2 hours...... half of that was waiting for the JB Weld to cure.

Worth every penny IMO. I was blown away how big of a difference it made.
 
Two weeks ago I drove to the blue ridge mountains to make a video for a summer camp there. As I pulled up to the entrance I heard a squealing come from the engine bay. I quickly pulled over, and shut the engine off but it was too late. I heard a low boom and knew what happened but still could not believe it.

I bought my '99 LX470 in November of 2020 with 241K miles. The timing belt and water pump had been replaced one year before I bought the truck. Sadly the shop that did the job did not bother to replace the pulleys, or use the AISIN TKT-021 TB/WP kit.

My idler pulley exploded, the tensioner pulley seized, and the water pump (less than two years old mind you) seized as well. See pictures.

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I was stuck in the mountains with a dead rig full of video equipment. I spent the next few days working since I had been paid to make a video for the camp. In my free time I ordered parts and tools needed to complete the job.

One of the full time employees at the camp happened to have a beautiful garage with just about everything I needed. His generosity still makes me tear up a bit.

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I had the LX towed to just in front of Steve's garage and set to work once my time of employment had ended. I attended the camp, Ridge Haven growing up, and their response to my situation was equally as generous. They fed and housed me for as long as I needed to get back on the road.

I started working on Thursday and had to return to Atlanta by Saturday evening. By the grace of some higher power I was able to complete my first timing belt/water pump job in a relative stranger's garage with little-to-no preparation. Thank God for @OTRAMM youtube videos and @Timmy65 's most recent TB series.

Several write-ups on MUD helped me with a lot of the 2UZ-FE specific things for which I had to look out.

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Got some help from Cruiser Outfitters and was able to have all the parts within about three days of ordering. Total was $556 for TB/WP/Tensioner/Thermostat/Gasket/FIPG/3 gallons of coolant/crankshaft holding tool

I was so lucky that Steve (garage owner) works on his Jeep (we'll give him a pass) as religiously as I do my LX.

As a word of advice, if you buy one of these rigs and the timing belt has "been replaced," it is absolutely worth looking at the pulleys etc. just in case the shop that did the job cheap skated it.
Lots of great folks out there.
 
Cheap man's catch can, will be interesting to see how effective this is, will be swapping the original filter with some stainless mesh, better than nothing


Also have a new found respect for braided hose.. Its a dog to cut through
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I wrap the hose with a piece of (insulation)tape where I want to cut and then cut the hose with a grinder & thin cutoff wheel. Perfect and easy every time.
 
Finally fixed my alternator issue
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I had a denso in it and the regulator "went bad", it was up to 17 Volts. No bueno - so I swapped it out under warranty. Went all winter without issue, then the "new" denso started occasionally throwing up to 17 volts at the battery. So I went with a Toyota reman. That one must have been a dud, b/c it died 7 miles later. Swapped it out for a replacement under warranty. Everything was good, but after about 50 miles, the voltage spiked. I turned on the rear defrost to see if a increase in power demand would do anything - the voltage bounced back immediately to 14. Hmmm. Wiring issue.... I had replaced the trailer hitch plug b/c the previous owner had installed one and it didn't work and I bought a new trailer last summer - while rewiring I found some interesting things. Toyota, the dealer and e-trailer.com all said this 2000 LC could not come with a controller. Guess what I found behind the driver's rear brake light?
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power was going to it, but not coming out of it. So I ordered a new one from etrailer.com and wired up a 4 pin and then converted it to a 7 pin.
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The Toyota controller had a duesch at each end, I had disconnected it over the winter, makes sense that no winter time issues. And then this reoccurred in the spring when we went camping when i reconnected the plug. When I removed and wired up new controller - I guess I didn't ground the controller and connector correctly. Since I grounded it like my Dad did me when he found a trunk full of warm Budweisers in 1990, its been flawless.
 

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